Okay just someone help me out. I have the 95-96 eclipse sides that I am putting on my Talon soon as I paint them but I need to know the best way to do it. Should I get stock paint? or get them to match it up with a Digital Pic? So far I have sanded all the rough scrathes out of them, Rattelcan primed them, then Wetsanded them (90% of the rattlecan primer is gone now)

Input Please

Points will be given

When I painted my side skirts, I just bought stock paint. I guess I was lucky and matched up pretty good. I haven't met anyone that even noticed the skirts were painted and installed by me and didn't come from factory. Good luck with your installation! :thumbsup

I would get that other 10% rattle can off there first. Then, spray with a good quality primer. I've heard that the tan buffing primer is really good. Wet sand and paint. The hard part is the clear. Good luck and I would stick to the factory color.

bring in your fuel door for a paint match. Color fades in time.


Evan B
97 GS- FOR SALE
90 GSX-sold
Stamford CT
EvMan2345@aol.com

Get the stock paint and color sand if you need to. And on painting a good rule of thumb is your paint is only going to be as good and hold up as the work under it. I'm not saying your rattle can primer is bad .............I wouldn't spend a ton on paint to cover it.....ya know?

so should I:

Primer with good primer

wetsand

base color

clear

done?

wetsanding after the clear as well... will get rid of minor imperfections in the clear (pitting, orange peeling, etc).


Evan B
97 GS- FOR SALE
90 GSX-sold
Stamford CT
EvMan2345@aol.com

is there a special type of paint I need to get since it's on plastic?

or do I just need primer, base, clear?

You could have a shop spray them both for less than a hundred...but if you want to do it yourself with a rattlecan get an etching primer first 2 coats, then a sandable primer, a few tack clothes and then spray. There not real big so you could probably do a nice job on them. 97 and above require a clearcoat for a color match btw but you def want to clearcoat them. Also I have ordered from here and bought 7 cans of factory matched paint just to conceal some body work for the winter. They rock for real. Its exspensive but it matchs and is good for a quick job if you don't have access to spray equipment. They selll everything you will need for a factory match.

Edit : and like said above wetsand any mistakes after the coat is completely dry, don't try to over spray it to fix anything as it doesn't work. Let it dry and sand away any nightmares. If they keep popping up then you have contamination that needs to be addressed. Prep is the key to a nice paint job no matter how its done.

http://www.expresspaint.com/productcart/pc/step1.asp

First what equipment do you have? If you have never shot paint, pick a junk fender and get used to your equipment. I have yet seen anybody mention what tip they use in their gun. I use 1.3 for mostly everything. It's pretty universal. Do you have an HVLP or reg. high pressure gun? Air pressure is important to the paint you are using. People here fail to mention single stage paints. They are easy to put down and I've had better luck blending lightly faded colors with single stages. Rattle can primer is exactly the same in the can as you can buy from Sikkens, PPG, Sherwin-Williams,ect... Use any brand name primer from a rattle can and you get the same results. The difference is you can not control the pressure and the amount that comes out and you don't get as much. I highly recommend a sealer or a converted primer/sealer. It helps the paint lay even and if you have your air pressure correct,it helps reduce orange peel. If you want an accurate paint match, take your whole car. A color eye usually gives a better match with 3 samples. It takes about 10 minutes to make just about all of Crysler paints. Have them mix a sample and check it against the car. If you have a high metallic color, I'd mention 2 things that can cause troubles. 1) make sure they have been stirred freqently b/c the metallic sinks to the bottom and messes with the weight of the paint and really will be the wrong color when you shoot it (2) Tiger stripes: they show up AFTER your done and look incredibly retarded... Shoot your paint with normal overlap and then on your last coat, kinda mist the paint from a little farther back and just try to get even coverage. Painting with decent equipment, 2 cheap water seperaters, and right length of hose I found helps. HVLP saves alot of paint. Get a mask. If you plan on painting more often, a mixing stick is cheaper than the measurement buckets. Make sure your body work is perfect. Wet sanding your primer with #400 is good enough, sometimes any more will not let the paint adhere properly. There are tons of ways to shoot paint, get as many different ideas as you can, try them out on your shit fender and see which one works for you. Oh and stay away from humidity and paint accelerators. Good luck.

if you decide to get an air compressor and paint it yourself
there is a product called bulldog that is an adhesion promotor
it causes paint to stick to plastic better
and makes it a little more flexible

after the sanding
spray coat of bulldog then put about an ounce in every mix of color and clear

i used it when i repainted my ZX9 ninja and it turned out great