well i drove it home from the races and i noticed as i tried to lock the doors, when i pushed the button all i heard was a clicking noise from inside the dash. Key less entry doesnt work either but when i press lock the interior light flashes twice. PLEASE HELP. TIA

mine are the same way, they open when they feel like opening, i have no idea why it does that. I also need help to get my stupid locks to work all the time.

I took my door apart and found out that there is this little yellow peiece that connects to the manual key entry...it got pulled out from the window going down. Plug it back up...and hopefully that will get you going again. You have to take you door panal off

1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 10th Anniversary OZ Edition
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>I took my door apart and found out that there is this little
>yellow peiece that connects to the manual key entry...it got
>pulled out from the window going down. Plug it back up...and
>hopefully that will get you going again. You have to take you
>door panal off

no the automatic locks on the door and the remote arent working. it wont lock when i press the lock button on the door or on the key. all i hear is a clicking noise from inside the dash behind the radion

take the door panel off and have a look at it. dont forget to check fuses

like i was saying phil, the automatic window works fine, but the automatic door doesnt. What fuse is for the automatics locks? i think thats what maybe the problem

yeah i know the locks arent working. take the panel off and see if the actuator is bad or not. since they went out at the same time it could be a fuse

i checked the fuse, its fine, when i placed the fuse back in its slot the doors automatically unlocked, but they still would not work when i pressed the butons. Also my cigatette lighter does not work, i checked the wiring and its hooked up correctly so i assume the power wire is dead, they musta used it for one of the gauges

either that of maybe check to see if a relay has gone bad. A friend of mine had the same thnig happen and the clicking was just the relay. It's just an idea and i don't even know if there is a relay for the automatic locks. Good luck fixing it.

^^^^^^^and bingo was his name-o. its the relay. i need to replace mine as well. i had the same symptoms...it first strated when the drivers door ddint seem to want to lock, and the the passengers, and now i just get a repeted clicking sound from inside the dash, behind the radio. they move a little, but not enough to actually lock the doors.

>^^^^^^^and bingo was his name-o. its the relay. i need to
>replace mine as well. i had the same symptoms...it first
>strated when the drivers door ddint seem to want to lock, and
>the the passengers, and now i just get a repeted clicking
>sound from inside the dash, behind the radio. they move a
>little, but not enough to actually lock the doors.

how much does a relay cost?

The relay is only $35 but i guarantee you that isn't your problem.

Take off the center console and take out teh radio.The relay for the locks is on the passenger side of the row of two or three relays. The door locks are negative pulse activated, which means that when the switch is hit, the relay clicks to ground just long enough to power the motor up, and unlock the door. What is happening is that the UNLOCK wire to the relay is shorted to ground somewhere. This causes the power door locks to stop working, but if you pull the fuse or the relay, lock both doors manually, and reinstall the fuse or relay, thedoors will unlock. They're getting a ground singal to unlock the doors all the time. It'll also drain yuor battery dead if you leave it sitting for a weekend or so.

The UNLOCK wire is (i wanna say) brown with a white stripe. Check it for continuity to ground with a multimeter. I never did find the short in my dash, i just got tired of fucking with it and cut the wire at the relay, cut it under the steering column, and cut it behind the glove box, and ran new wires from the relay to the door side of each. (bypassing the short).

Check out the factory electrical manual for the exact wire colors. It's either brown with a white stripe or brown with a red stripe, but i remmeber that it's brown with some fscking color stripe on it.

yea what dino said...
if you hear clicking it's prolly not your relay that's the problem. mechanical relays click when they're activated or deactivated. if you DIDN'T hear the clicking noise then the relays could possibly be the problem. sounds more like a wiring/short issue.

i'd help ya more with the wiring but my locks are aftermarket...

*edit*
hey dino, what kinda switching system does the stock power locks use? do the leads rest at +12v (both leads are connected to +12v at rest; to lock or unlock one lead is temporarly connected to ground) or do they float at rest (both leads not connected to anything at rest; to lock one lead is temporarirly connected to ground while the other is connected to +12v; to unlock the leads are connected the other way around)? it kinda sounds like they rest at +12v from your info. i've always wondered 'bout the stock systems since all my power stuff is aftermarket so i haven't really been able to help people with questions on fixing windows/locks. if not i guess i could go dig through the schematics but i was just wondering if someone knew off-hand. thanks!

*edit again*
hey dino after re-reading your post i kinda disagree. i thought you were talking about a short in the leads to the actuators themselves but you were talking about a short in the (-) signal to the relays. if you had a short in the signal wire, you wouldn't get any 'clicking' noise b/c the relays would never be activated (or they would be constantly activated as you suggested). the only problem is that the clicking could possibly be from some other relays that do not control the locks but are activated in conjunctions with locking/unlocking (flashing parking lights, chirping siren, domelight supervision, etc.). it sounds like the signal from the receiver to the relays is alright (assuming it's the lock/unlock relays that are clicking). my guess would be bad wiring from the relay to the actuators or bad actuators. or even possibly bad wiring to the 87,87a,30 pins of the relay (since it sounds like the pins 85 & 86 across the coil are working alright).

hmm... you guys that're having problems, are you only having a problem locking, unlocking, or both? do you hear clicking when you do either? do you have aftermarket alarms? any info would help to narrow down the problem. electrical problems are a PITA to diagnose.

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
Ractive STB
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

also when i lock the door manually i hear a clicking noise in the dash. i will take a look tommorow and post up on whats the deal. i have the factory disection books, just ned to find what page theyre on

YES! I have had the EXACT same problem as you are since I got my car laugh. The power windows work fine... but the power door locks SUCK! Pushing them to unlock/lock on either door panel, you can hear clicking behind the radio.. sometimes they actually work and sometimes they don't. I'm gonna try what you said Dino, soon as I get some time :)

>hey dino, what kinda switching system does the stock power
>locks use? do the leads rest at +12v (both leads are
>connected to +12v at rest; to lock or unlock one lead is
>temporarly connected to ground) or do they float at rest (both
>leads not connected to anything at rest;

Ground pulse activated.

>*edit again*
>hey dino after re-reading your post i kinda disagree. i
>thought you were talking about a short in the leads to the
>actuators themselves but you were talking about a short in the
>(-) signal to the relays.

No, the unlock wire the runs from the relay to the actuators. it's the same wire (and same signal) for both locks with the factory system.

>if you had a short in the signal
>wire, you wouldn't get any 'clicking' noise b/c the relays
>would never be activated (or they would be constantly
>activated as you suggested).

You're working on the incorrect assumption that there is only one relay to click. There is not - the "relay" in the dash is actually a dual position dual throw relay, essentially two relays packaged as one. The unlock side is permanently activated and will not click, but the lock side will certainly try to activate the motors, click, and still fail because the unlock side of the system is energized due to a short to ground (in a ground pulse system) on the UNLOCK side if the relay.

Once i et to the office tomorrow, i'll dig up the printout i went by and noted on, and give you the exact wire colors you'll need to check.

k got it. thanks for clearing that up dino!
i was kinda assuming it was standard SPDT relay, not something more complex. sorry for the confusion :P i've just been guessing on how the stock system is setup

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
Ractive STB
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

Brown with a white stripe, at the door lock switch, door lock actuator, relay. Check it for continuity to ground, and if it is indeed grounded, then cut it under the steering column and check if the door side is grounded, or the relay side is grounded. If the relay side is grounded, move to the glovebox, find the wire in the bundle and cut it there. Check which side is grounded, relay or door. If relay side, cut the brown/white stripe wire at the relay, and run two new wires from that point to the door side under the steering column, and behind the glove box. This bypasses the short to ground that is somewhere (probably a faulty junction) in the dash. I never could find it.