im not talkin about the amber ones on our car that you can replace with the clear ones...the ones that i have seen people attatch to their front fender....right in front of the door. i have seen them on some cars here and on supras as well. they look to be about 1 inch wide and about 2-3 inches long. where do yall get these?? i take it you have to remove the fender to install? what about wiring to the blinker?? where did yall tap into?? tia!

Ya, my buddy put those on his eclipse... You mean these right??



You don't have to take off the fender, actually it's probably easer to leave it on cause it's supported that way. There is nothing behind it, just don't cut too deep into the body. You just splice into the blinker from the head light. That's how he did it.

Can I be your friend? I want a nice car too...and big rims

>where do yall get these??

Uhm, anywhere that sells APC products. That's who makes them. I'm sure that someone else does, but APC has a huge selection. I used to have a set on my truck that were rectangular in shape with nice rounded edges and were sloped, not flat, meaning the front was about 1.5" high about .5" from the front...they were nice and the plastic stayed far enough away from the bulb that it didn't melt.

>i take it you have to remove the fender to install?

I've never put them on an Eclipse, but on my truck or local Civics I didn't. Just need a level (keep those bitches on straight), a fabric tape measure-or tailor's tape measure (metal will scratch your car), a grease pencil for marking, a drill with a 1" final diameter uni-bit, power screwdriver, some kind of clear adhesive, wirepuller, soldering stuff and tape/shrink tube, and a lot of patience.

You have to figure out where you want them then take measurements to certain points on your car. Like the corner of your mirrors, center of your wheel, bla bla bla. It's a triangulation theory. You want your pass side to be exactly in the same spot. So if you measure out from 3 or more points, you should be right on.

This is the scary part....get out the uni-bit and start drilling. You want to have your light on hand so that you can test it, don't make your hole bigger than you have to. Once you get the hole there put your light in and get out your level. Place your level on the ground to get a base value (where the bubble sits) then set it on top of your light and adjust accordingly, then mark your screw holes. Take out the lights to put in the screws, if you don't you run a really high risk of cracking the light housing. If you start on a level surface it's easier. Don't do this on a hill or they'll look like shit when you're done.

Now, on to the wiring...

>what about wiring to the blinker?? where did yall tap into?? tia!

Trust me on this...GET TWO RELAYS FROM CIRCUIT CITY OR OTHER ELECTRONICS STORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!....they are usually about $12 a piece and it will save you from buying new lights. If you wire these directly to the bumper light or blinker (which stay on all the time when you turn on your lights) you'll burn that little aftermarket sidmarker out in about 1 week. I've made this mistake, learn from it.


Now, I forget how to wire relays (as in which terminals to use 86, 87a, 87b, bla bla bla)....so someone else can tell you that. I do know how they work. You can wire them so that when they get signal they turn your accessory on, or when they lose signal they turn it off. The second is your best option. The reason why is when your blinker shuts off the sidemarker will flash, when the blinker comes on the sidemarker will be off. Trust me, I can't emphasize this enough, you DON'T WANT THEM ON ALL THE TIME.

Now, here's a basic wiring explanation. Main power should come from a switched source (not the battery) so that when your car is off the lights are off....but this source can't be your blinkers or it will defeat the purpose, your switch signal will come from your blinker positive, and your ground will just ground to the body. Then run your output from the switch in the relay to the positive on your sidemarker and then ground them to the body. It looks cool too when they are blinking out of phase.

Now, final notes. You need to get some touch-up paint (color doesn't matter as it will be covered up) so you can paint around your screw holes and main light housing hole. Dont' do this and your fender will rust. When you get all your wiring ran and your lights are hooked up and working go ahead and screw your light housing down. YOu'll see that the outer plastic is the last thing to put on. Now, here's the final tip:

The outer plastic is weak and shitty, they have two tabs on them which are supposed to latch on to the backing which is screwed onto the car and a rubber seal which is supposed to seal it up. 100% guaranteed if you aren't prepared for this it won't work at all. Out of all the sidemarkers I've put in (tons of civics) it has never worked right. So you need to use a toothpick and run a line of clear adhesive around the edge of the outer plastic and on the inside of that rubber surround. Then press your outer plastic to the backing. Use a pick tool or paper clip to make sure the rubber seal is outside the clear plastic then sit back and let it dry.


This is why I insist you use relays. The lights won't stay together without glueing them together, therefor you have to break them to get them off, hence you can't just replace lights you have to replace the whole thing. Invest the time and money in to the relays and you'll never have to worry about them again.



On a side note, if you get tired of them be prepared for bodywork and or new fenders as this process will put about 3/4-1" holes and 2 screw holes into your fender :)

how to use relays:

85 = ground
86 = +12v signal from exist running lights
30 = +12v constant source
87 = to positive lead on wires for your side marker
87a = not used

then just ground the negative lead from the light. that's about it. all the relay does is turn 'on' when it gets a signal from your running lights. when the relay turns 'on' it connects pin 30 and 87 thus giving a 12v signal to your side marker lights. i'm not actually sure why you'd hafta use a relay though if the signal to your existing lights is a 12v signal... not sure why it would blow lights. the only reason you use relays is if you need to send more current than the signal. i could see needing it if you were blowing fuses from drawing too much current through the wiring from your existing lights (caused by adding these extra lights). if ya do end up buying relays i'd suggest goin through www.hosfelt.com that's a really great company i just found from people on another forum. they've got great customer service and their relays are hella cheap. most've them are less than a dollar. and they have name brand stuff too lik bosch. k that's all. goodluck w/ the install

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
CAI
A'pexi N1
Hanabi 9000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

^^ Thank you for the reminder.....You DO USE 87a! That's the lead which turns on when the 12 volt signal is lost from your switch power. So when your blinker turns off your sidemarker goes on.

Mcubed, not sure if you're aware that relays can do this, but that's what 87a is for.

ya i know what it's for - i wasn't clear on what he wanted it to do.
i'm not exactly sure how you're recommending they be hooked up. at first it sounded like you're suggesting that the 'side markers' come on and flash only with the blinker. in that case, you would hook the relay up as i posted with the except of tapping 86 into the signal from the blinker instead of the running lights. if the signal from the blinker's a negative signal, just tap 85 into a +12v constant source instead. you don't use 87a b/c you're using the relay as a NO (normally open switch) which closes and thus activates the 'side marker' only when a signal is received from the blinker (if that's how you wish to have it setup). in the resting state pin 30 and 87a will have continuity. with the setup i suggested this means pin 87a will have a constant +12v signal. i'm not sure where you're suggesting this signal be sent since you're recommending the 'side marker' be left off when the blinker is not in use. if i can get some clarification on exactly when you want the side marker to be lit (w/ blinker, w/ running lights, etc.) i'd be happy to tell you how to wire everything up. :)

hehe relays are fun. i'm hooking up my windows to single output channel from my alarm. only costs a couple bucks and i'm using only one channel for up AND down motion. most shops will tell you you need two channels. (one for up, one for down) and they'll prolly tell you to buy a window control module - which is just a bunch of relays... and a timer if it's for one touch operation. one touch is easy to do too but i'd rather just use my output as a validity channel.

for all your automotive electrical needs checkout www.the12volt.com cool guys there that really know there stuff. don't talk to the dumb fucks at overpriced radioshack. some sales guy came around to bother me and tried to 'help' the other day and when i asked some questions on product specs he replied "i'm not and electrical engineer". YEA WELL I AM SO GO AWAY!!! (only my first year at it in college too... guess they hire anyone at radioshack). haha he tried to get me to buy a 4PDT mechanical relay when all i was doing was hooking up a play switch to my siren. wtf am i gonna do with the other 3 poles when all i need in the first place a SPST NO relay that'll handle enough current for the siren. stupid sales people.

haha sorry for the long post

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
CAI
A'pexi N1
Hanabi 9000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

off topic, but GAWD that's beautiful