Well this is a 10 second picture incase you can't picture what I'm trying to ask.

Anyway the sides of the bumper have to really be forced in and the shop is afraid that the first time I hit ground that it is going to crack. I said just go ahead and force it because he asked if I just wanted to leave it stick out and well, no.

Here is a top view of how the car would look and than the front bumper sticking out.


Is my shop just worried or is this something to be worried about.

If its polyurethane then you should be ok but if its fiberglass then they may need to cut it and re form it from what i've been told. fiberglass is easy to repair but it's less forgiving with fitment.

Well it will go in, it will just have a lot of pressure pushing outwards. If I hit something they think that will be enough pressure to break the fiberglass and go flying off.

The only thing holding the bumper on are 3 bolts in the middle and than on the fender. The re-bar had to come off.

God I love urethane. I already smacked a curb and got hit from a guy doing 30+mph and virtually no damage to the bumper. :)

don't hit anything :) j/p
but you may wanna make one of those underspoilers or buy a carbon one. Come to think of it that might even compensate a little for the lack of rebar in case the inevitable happens, but i not sure since i don't know how those are actually mounted on

Try using a thick ziptie on each side, this way if you hit something you'll just break the ziptie. I have 3 upper bolts and a ziptie on each side of my bumper haven't had any problems yet. Makes it easy to remove the bumper also. BTW what shop is doing the install?

Here's my .02 worth:

One of my friends has a wide-mouth drift front end on his '99 cougar that has the same problem your kit does. It is just a little too wide and we had to squeeze in on the sides and bolt it pretty tight for it to fit. He's hit, caught, and scraped the front numerous times and it has never cracked due to the stress. The only problem he has is that there is so much pressure on the side bolts that they seem to work loose easier than the rest, so once every 1 1/2 weeks or 2 weeks we have to spend 5 minutes to tighten the 4 bolts on the corners.

BTW: His kit is fiberglass

I'm glad your career isn't art.

:P

_________________________________________________________
Jen & Cody - http://dsmxtsi.freehomepage.com
-1995 Eagle Talon ESi
-1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
-1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS-T
-1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
-1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

hey I had the same problem when i put on my evo bumper,

My dad and I made like 3 holes for bolts on each side and got it as tight as tight can be. It was hell removing the bumper. But when I got into an accident on my birthday L in jan, and my bumper shattered into a million pieces. I don’t think it was the stress of the bumper but sure it didn’t help.

jay

One of my best buds owns a body shop. When he has to install fiberglass kits that don't fit, he usually cuts and reforms the kit to make it fit correctly. Takes a bit longer and cost more, but it's the correct way to do it. Depending on the skill of the shop your car is at, they might be able to pull it off. If not, then you will have to risk bolting that puppy on and hoping for the best.

When buying a body kit of any material one of the things that needs to be asked is if the kit was pre-fitted onto the model car it will be installed on. If not, there will be issues. Not always, but you run a higher risk.

just my .02

Yeah, I have the same problem right now with my blitz bodykit, but is was the rear bumper thats a little wide and so freakin' hard to
fit, what I did is I used a heat gun and heated the rear bumper till it gets hot and doing this will make it more flexible. I did this and while the bumper is hot me and bodyshop owner installed it and put screws in the sides to hold it in place. then we installed the rest of the kit and left my car sittin' under 103 degrees of sun for the whole damn day!

MiztahfooLish...
'95 RS
Features&Mods-front & rear strut tower bars, cherry red valve cover,MatrixGR Motorsports Short Ram Intake, OBX-R Dual DTM Exhaust, OBX-R Racing Pedals, Carbon Fiber Shift Knob, Pioneer XM Ready CD Headunit & front door speakers, MA Audio Synergy Series 1500W Subwoofer, 600W American Pro Audio Amp, Tsunami/Scosche Audio Wires/Distribution Blocks, Red Neon Sound Sensitive Lights, 17"x7.5" Rota Subzero Wheels, 245/45/17 Kumho Ecsta Low Profiles, Inexpensive Driving Lights (ha ha)...New tranny/clutch/clutch master cylinder/redline synthetic tranny fluid/head gasket/intake&exhaust manifold gasket/Accel 8mm wires/starter/coilpack/timingbelt/idler pulleys/waterpump/acc. belts/hope thats IT!

Gettin' installed...
Blitz Body Kit

you can do that or install it and put it in the paint booth and turn the heat on in the booth for a few hours at high temps and let the kit form to the car. Worked for my kit and i can take the front off easy now. Doesn't bounce back once i take the screws out. Fits perfect every time i take it off....

There will be a lot of stress like you said because the bumper is too wide. What the shop has to do is cut the bumper, and then lay new fiberglass to make it fit right. That will probably cost at least an extra 50 to 100 in labor though. If you force it in, it may or may not last. The paint may crack from the stress after a while, and if you hit something, the bumper may just pop off on the edge near the bumper if there is too much outwards force. I would cut it and fix it before painting.

Eh, well too late Marcus... I'll have some pics tonight lol.

if you make it really tight, it WILL crack over time.

Wont the fiberglass kind of "form" that shape though?