ok i got the body filler n shit for me to start molding (dont ask, it just came to me one day, i want to mold my sideskirts at least in the back and fill over the holes. so im trying to decide what all i want to mold to my car. i am considering the skirts as well as the new rear bumpah im getting, my factory door caps and possibly my new spawla.

so...who has done this themselves? (i know ian has but thats it...marcus?) how hard will it be for me to mold the back bumpah?
on the side skirts i dont think im going to go with a full smooth-in, im just gonna fill in the area where the skirt meets the fender and smooth that area in, if i can go all out and fully mold it i will.

my next question...how much money do you think a shop will charge me to paint my entire rear section as one piece (rear bumper, fenders, and side skirts)? i am going to shave the handles later on when i can afford the door poppers and have the doors painted again...woohoo 4th partial paintjob!

if you know any other 2g's with online FAQ's about molding let me know. is it possible to mold the side skirts just at the seam and then paint that area with touch up and still have it look "good enough" until i can do the whole thing? or would it be a smudgy overpaint?

lindsay why is my girl in ur sig??
man door popers are cheap.. mine was 30 a piece just get trunk ones from like circuit city.. solenoids.. they work great.. and are cheap
if you have an alarm already then you are golden .. because you can hook the popers up to that.

molding really isnt to hard some say but you want to make sure its strong so it wont crack

your mr i want to change my car every 10 mins so i dont know if you should do it.. and i thought you wanted to sell your car>??

i do, just not yet.
thx

save up your money and do it all at once and get your whole car painted so it will all match.

dat gurl got sum chicken legs


1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 10th Anniversary OZ Edition
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chicken legs? shes hot as fawk, i cant even get girls that hot in my fanatasies :7

why are you looking at her legs..who cares about them with all the other parts on her they make up for it..lol

she could wrap those chicken legs around me every day of the week and twice on Sundays.......

ok, ok, enough about the chicken-legged porn star people, the post doesnt say porn-stunnaz. back to the subject...

ah bondo... bondo isnt really good man it soaks up condensation... they make this stuff with fiberglass in it thats green and it really works good... doesnt soak up liquid and wont break down like bondo... bondo breaks down in a year... :D

Cyan, you might want to talk with Jeff (Baskistylz), he molded the side skirts to his car...it really isnt that hard to do, its just time consumming getting everything really smooth because otherwise it will show up when you paint that area. I suggest to use fiber glass, bondo, marglass and putty to make everything look professional. That the way I shaved my door handles, along with welding some metal to cover the hole of corse.




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Thank you and have a Rice day!!

Molding takes a lot of time, and is really hard to get perfectly smooth. Ian and Jeff both molded their skirts in, and both of them were not smooth, like you could see it wasn't smooth (sorry guys hehe). It does take some skill to do it right and make it last. Most body shops can't do a good job. A lot of widebody or fender flare cars always come in and need to be remolded because some other shop messed it up. I guess you could try to do most of it yourself, but maybe have a professional touch it up before you paint it. Also, molding the back bumper to the car is not a very good idea. People laugh at cars that do it here in cali (at least daily driven ones) because they will eventually crack. I'd be worried since your car is so low, but I guess you "could" get away with it if you are lucky. Just keep in mind if you ever crack that rear bumper, you will have to break the molded in bumper (and repaint the quarter panels). You never know if you might hit something. So I guess my answer is, ya you can mold the sides in, but I wouldn't do the rear bumper. Just mix the bondo with the hardener, and apply in smooth layers, sanding off an excess after it's dried before you go on to the next layer. From what I've seen, the body guys don't necessarily do it in thin layers. Like to mold wide body, the pros can mold in an entire rear quarter panel initially in about 15 minutes, then let it dry, sand, and smooth it etc.

To repaint the whole rear section would be probably around 500 to 900 depending on where you go. We wouldn't just paint part of the side skirt where it's molded in. You'd have to sand the whole thing and blend it in to make it look nice. Actually now that I think of it, the best way would also be to sand the whole door and blend it in. When you blend, you spray the base coat and blend it with the rest of the paint (but you don't paint the whole door or whole side skirt). Then you reshoot clear coat across the whole pieces that were sanded so it all matches. That's like repainting almost half the car, so probably around 650, since we charge 1300 to repaint the entire exterior. Of course shop prices in Georgia will vary.

yeah mine doesn't look perfect up close, but what can I say.... not to bad for a first time atempt. :-D also I rushed it so that I could have it ready on time. so when I do redo the car it should look a lot better. if u do it just take ur time, and make it as smooth as possible.

side skirts can be done fairly easy. Just sand w/ 40 grit (try to get really deep scratches) to bare meatal/fiberglass and than apply marglass(green fiberglass filler). save bondo till the last finishing layer. Just keep sanding till perfectly smooth.

rear bumper is easy but will probably crack. if you mount it with like 40 screws or rivets so it is perfectly tight and has no play, then you can mold it. But it probably still will eventually crack as your body flexs and the fiberglass doesn't.

Saw a silver Eclipse today w/ your sides molded. looks really clean.

As for the wing, i wouldn't mold. Opening and closing your hatch will crack the fiberglass/bondo.

The best advice is do what i did. Sign up at your local Community college auto boday class. YOu get access to every tool, access to welders, unlimited marglass/bondo/putty, access to paint booth to paint your own car.

Hey Ian, what exactly is marglass? I was talking to jeff about this yesterday. I don't think I've seen it at T&L. They have a lot of different bondos for metal, fiberglass etc., but what exactly is marglass?

and where do you get marglass from?

damn, cyan all I know is that girl in your sig could come to my house and......but seriously, there is this stuff called fish filler avalable at http://www.fishmanaudio.com that is mainly used for fiberglass sub enclosures so it is pretty strong $hit! this works on MDF, plastic, plexiglass, fiberglass, and metal, and is a sanding primer filler so bodo will have to be used to finish it up.

cyan, i know you're gonna kill me, but since we're on the subject, whoever has the battle z rear from VIS... when you filled the gap between your taillight and rear bumper, did you use anything besides bondo? also, did anyone ever have to fill the crack where the bumper corner actually meets the rear fender in the wheel well. mine doesn't line up well. sorry for wandering of the subject, but since this is the "bondo Stunnaz" thread, i figured we got some pros up on this.

Hey I know exactly what you are talking about. We had to drill holes twice in order for it to line up right. If you do it really carefully, then it will almost line up (where the vertical part of the bumper hits the rear quarter panel). You just push it in as much as you can. But I personally would NOT bondo that gap because it is a pretty tight fit and could easily crack. You'd have to add fiberglass, but it wasn't worth it for the small gap (less noticeable when you paint it), so I just left it. This VIS Blitz rear has to be one of the worst in fit and quality. If you look carefully, you will see a lot of ripples in it too (not smooth). For the tailights, I just bondo'd the gap between the tails and the bumper, since it doesn't hit anything at all, so there is no real stress on those parts. Just don't bondo too high or then it will hit your tailights.

Marglass is this green body filler with strands of fiberglass in it. It won't rust like bondo and is good with fiberglass, since it is fiberglass. It is thicker than bondo. You can get it at a auto body supply store.

wait a minute! did you just say that bondo rusts? oh boy, i hope that isn't true, i've got some unprimered bondo showing on my bumper right now. and it's raining outside. i think you might mean that if you have metal underneath a think layer of bondo. right? anybody?

I don't think bondo itself rusts. I had my unpainted rear on for over a year, in the rain and washing it, with bondo all over it, and it was fine. Only metal rusts...