i wanna pull off the interioir side of the door i need to know where the screws are and whre to be careful on pullin so i don't fuck up the clips. ohyeah seats too how do i pull those fuckers up? i'm dynomatting!!!

door skins are easy.. 4 bolts on the outside corners and pull off, just kinda pry along the edges to get the clips to realease and if you have any power accesories like pw/pl then you will need to pull the plug to that... the seats are also very easy.. 4 bolts on all 4 corners and pull the seat out...

im surprised your dynomatting your doors.. i found that most of my rattles came from my rear panels and not my doors... but accually if done right that will help on road noise espeically under the seats and such.

my car was hit before i bought it and it makes TONS of noise inside, a comparable difference would be my car is to stock, stock is to beamer. plus my muff rumbles everythingin the car, damn brospeed. i sound like v-8 though. but i'm prolly doin like two layers of premium in the hatch and around the rear where the speaks ho and like 3 layers under the seats and in the doors, have to see how much room i have in there. thanks for the reply i'll start after christmas.

hey just take some advices before adding too much unneeded weight to the car... be sure to find whats rattleing and find a way to secure it along with the straight approach to laying dynomat on all the metal you can find.. the doors may have a diff approach as to what i did to the rear pannels but it may be on the same lines.. if you need help understanding what i mean email me and ill help out and explain it better.

wo0t!
also, there is a screw behind the doorhandle, and screw in holder in the door where you close it with

doh.. almost forgot about that... and the fact that i dont have roll up winders either...

good point.. make sure that you are matting the right parts.. for me, much of the rattle comes from the rear panels and the trunk. also, it would seem that 3 layers is a lot of matting/money. i dont think that much is needed... just two pennies

well if u dont have power.. u have to pop out the lil clip that holds the window roller downerrr handlee(aha u like that) but its kinda hard to pop it out.. but easy to put back on..

they arent that hard to pop out. well for me at least. ive done mine like 100 times. all you gotta do i slide a flathead screwdriver in there and pop that little metal thing that clips the crank to the handle

well i have power winders and i don't rattle much as all i have is a cd player in it. i just have tons of road noise so i'm goin premium dynomat and coverin the fucker in it.

my other post disapperared so i can't hit edit. anywys. i'm not worried to much about weight gain cause it's already a slug. i'm gonna round out the power stuff with a UDP and a bored T/B than sell it off for like the wrx or the lancer evo when it comes over. or i f i get alot of money saved an audi S4 will have my name on it. power sedans babeee oooooooooooooo yeah

definetely go for the s4. another power sedan is the m3. i think the 4 doors were 96-98 maybe 99. you can find a 97 or 98 for about $25,000-$30,000 depending on condition and mileage

keep in mind dynamat is a damper, although it serves its purpose as an insulator/noise barrier. So i would say 1-2 coats of dynamat and then use some sound barrier foam to kill road noise. Cascade makes something that's closed cell and open cell foam with a lead barrier in between and i've hear its teh shiznit, i was broke when i took everything apart so i just used one layer of hi temp mastic and a layer of open cell foam and a layer of closed cell foam, did a pretty good job. You can use close cell foam in the doors but i woundn't use the open cell cause it could trap moisture. Also, i've found that weatherstripping works great around those rear panels.

dynamat premium is nice, but super is very nice. don't ask how many layers I have....

but jza's done his homework:)

i've heard super is stiffer and hard to fit in the nooks and crannies. i was gonna start with premium and go up to super when i get the lil intricate parts done. i heard that absorption foam blows nuts. i'll stick with the dynamat. should be enough. i'm also gonna goto a body shop and see if they can tell me why my car would make more noise after bein hit and if they can fix it up

plus i read koolade was once talkin about using fibreglass resin with sand i was thinkin of layin down a layer of dynamat than usin that on top than another layer of dynamat. it performs better than most with similar mods cause not to many people think of using the hotter plugs.
also what is weahter sripping and how do you use it in the car?

What's the difference with Dynamat Extreme? My friend used $400 of that stuff on his car...

Also, another guy told me just use rubberized undercoating. It's normally sprayed underneath the car, but you can use it as a sound deadener inside your panels? Any opinions, it only a couple bucks a can...

I'm not a big fan of spray because it costs so much for a can and you need alot of it to make a real difference. on my next car(maybe even this one if I strip everything out again) I'm getting a 55 gallon drum of Line-X and doing the whole car right... then laying mat over that:)

and the super is pretty flexible. I've never had any problems getting into tricky spots. but also remember this, the noise isn't brought in around the edges, it's brought in on the large open panels. that's where it'll make a difference. typically 75% panel coverage is adequate.

and yes a fiberglass resin/sand mixture makes an excellent mass loading material. but it's not fun to work with. if you go that route, just realize that you don't need that much of a layer of it, unless you plan on pumping 160db in your daily driver.

i heard that
>absorption foam blows nuts.

where did you here this?
its physics, its not like dynamic control has scientists figuring out what to use to quiet road noise, every material has different properties and does a good job at a particular frequency range, which is why it is good to use different types of things.

Wheather stripping is the stuff that's put around windows and hoods and stuff, they sell it at autoparts places. Its used to stop rattles, not insulate. No matter how much you damp those rear panels they're still going to move a little, also good to use a little around the doors.

Ya, ive did my share of homework back in the stricly-audio days, now its performance :)

the guys at auto sound of lancaster told me they said they've seen it used alot and all it does is make a huge mess inside the car and this one guy got hit and that abosorbtion foam exploded out of his tail ligh, he was hit in the front. so

they were referring to expanding foam, which is often used behind panels to keep them from moving, it is messy because it expands and can get all over the place. Its also used for making molds for fiberglass things, what i'm talking about is insulation foam.

insulation = deaden road noise (ie padding, carpet, foam...)
sound damper = adds mass to stop vibration (ie dynamat, road kill,...