Everybody is giving me alot of shit on me procrastinating painting my car/finishing my body work. Moreso now that i have my rims on. :rolleyes: Lol. It's not so much the heckling that gets me but i'd really like to see my eclipse shine.

So, i'm thinking of going the dupli-color route.

I want to do the whole thing jet black, since that's the only black they offer. Also, i'd rather skip painting my bay and jams which are already black. Nothing says "sleeper" like a black car. *chuckles*

So roughly how many cans of primer and paint will i need to cover the whole car. I'm probably going to go crazy with the clear since i dont want it fading/peeling ever. The UV/scratch protection is also a plus from using multiple coats.

Thanks.
-Brandon

are you talking about rattle can paint or actual paint here?

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
are you talking about rattle can paint or actual paint here?

I'm thinking he means rattle can.

Good luck OP.

If you are going to rattle can it please, for the love of all thats holy, don't paint it black. Might as well paint it banana yellow, or baby blue at that point. But don't ruin the CBCC with rattle can black. ugh.

Oh, and FYI, Sleeper usually refers to a car that looks stock but has serious performance upgrades, not just one that IS stock...

No, i'm not rattle canning it!

Good god!

It's rattle-canned with primer right now. Using compressed air guns are much easier than trying to make an actual rattle-can job come out right. Those nozzles clog up and once the can loses enough air pressure, the paint just spits out and looks like shit. I've used them enough to know painting an entire car with them is fucked.

The end of january, my engine is comming out. 2.4L swap, srt4 internals, some sort of t3/t4 turbo....whatever i can find that will support around 300hp from spooled motorsports, 3" exhaust the whole way back with no cat or resonators, MSnS.......ect. I'll probably buy some sort of honda beater to drive until everything is in and tuned. Itbs and plenum will come later after i get the math straight. The air dynamics involved with a forced induction setup have me scratching my head so i'm still researching that. My gf's friend and also her uncle have shops which the both of us will be using during the year(s) to come fixing our cars. Her 1.8 jetta and my eclipse....

I went on the dupli-color site and they say their gallon paints are available at most auto stores so i'm good. They didn't list prices but I'm not worried about it.

Thanks for the shit talking.

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
No, i'm not rattle canning it! Good god! It's rattle-canned with primer right now. Using compressed air guns are much easier than trying to make an actual rattle-can job come out right. Those nozzles clog up and once the can loses enough air pressure, the paint just spits out and looks like shit. I've used them enough to know painting an entire car with them is fucked. The end of january, my engine is comming out. 2.4L swap, srt4 internals, some sort of t3/t4 turbo....whatever i can find that will support around 300hp from spooled motorsports, 3" exhaust the whole way back with no cat or resonators, MSnS.......ect. I'll probably buy some sort of honda beater to drive until everything is in and tuned. Itbs and plenum will come later after i get the math straight. The air dynamics involved with a forced induction setup have me scratching my head so i'm still researching that. My gf's friend and also her uncle have shops which the both of us will be using during the year(s) to come fixing our cars. Her 1.8 jetta and my eclipse.... I went on the dupli-color site and they say their gallon paints are available at most auto stores so i'm good. They didn't list prices but I'm not worried about it. Thanks for the shit talking.

Weirdo. lol. No one was talking shit. We thought you were talking about spray painting the car, and obviously everyone is going to say dont do it because it looks like shit, so chill out.

Painting your car for the first time is a HUGE step, especially if your going black. The first time I painted a car, even after I took some painting classes at my old school, I ran the shit out of the clear. When painting black, you have to make sure you have ZERO dust anywhere. On the ceiling, floors, walls, because your going to get TONS of it in the paint and wetsanding, you can only go far man.

After you get the feel for it, go for it, but I would STRONGLY suggest you to painting about 3-5 entire cars before you do yours. Buy some cheap cars at the junk yard and paint them, then sell them back for the metal price. I did that twice before I sprayed my first car.

Good Luck though.

Mike is right, painting a car for the first time is a pretty intimidating thing. It is very easy to run the paint/clear if you are not careful or too slow.

duplicolor has a new line of paint in quart cans, I think that's what he's planning on using, decent stuff for cheap. I might give it a try.

painting a car is not as easy as people think hense why paintjobs cost so much . I went to school for it and practiced on numerous fenders b4 i perfected the skill . After 7 months of school for it more than half the class still made tons of mistakes . It is an art . Go to the junkyard and get a cheap fender . do the body work ,paint it ,clear it ,wetsand it buff it . Then take a hammer and beat the shit out of it and repeat them steps at least 5 or 6 times . you can get cheap practice paint from auto body supply shops . they usually have garbage returned cans of paint that were only returned cuz the color was off . Also any paint u can get at autozone is not worth painting a car with . Stay with ppg dbu or dbc .

Originally posted by boosted60trimrst
painting a car is not as easy as people think hense why paintjobs cost so much . I went to school for it and practiced on numerous fenders b4 i perfected the skill . After 7 months of school for it more than half the class still made tons of mistakes . It is an art . Go to the junkyard and get a cheap fender . do the body work ,paint it ,clear it ,wetsand it buff it . Then take a hammer and beat the shit out of it and repeat them steps at least 5 or 6 times . you can get cheap practice paint from auto body supply shops . they usually have garbage returned cans of paint that were only returned cuz the color was off . Also any paint u can get at autozone is not worth painting a car with . Stay with ppg dbu or dbc .

get acrylic enamel paint, its like $15 a quart.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRSTget acrylic enamel paint, its like $15 a quart.

many places won't sell it anymore due to the high VOC count, also if you live in an area that salts(magnesium chloride) and/or gravels roads the paint will be beaten off the car in 6-12 months.

urethane FTW

Originally posted by totaleclipse_05
Mike is right, painting a car for the first time is a pretty intimidating thing. It is very easy to run the paint/clear if you are not careful or too slow.

He is. I've painted alot of models, car parts, bike parts, furnature, houses....ect. If i fuck it up, which i might, there's always aircraft stripper, a pressure washing and a re-do. Lol. Either way, good looking out guys. I'm just looking to know how many quarts of paint/primer/clear i'll need to do the whole car. I picked up some glazing compound today so i can fill in a few rough areas that were too deep to feather but too shallow for bondo on my roof I also picked up some glass mat, resin, and thin ss to spot-weld and shave my spoiler mounting holes. I set out to do that a while ago but hey, shit happens.

To me, paint and body is easier that tuning. I wouldn't say it's not as frustrating because it can be but i'm up to the task. I love working with bondo and fiberglass. I had soooo many dents in my car when i purchased it. Im dent-free now. You can't even tell unless you try to stick a magnet to the car in some spots....

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS

Originally posted by totaleclipse_05 Mike is right, painting a car for the first time is a pretty intimidating thing. It is very easy to run the paint/clear if you are not careful or too slow.

He is. I've painted alot of models, car parts, bike parts, furnature, houses....ect. If i fuck it up, which i might, there's always aircraft stripper, a pressure washing and a re-do. Lol. Either way, good looking out guys. I'm just looking to know how many quarts of paint/primer/clear i'll need to do the whole car. I picked up some glazing compound today so i can fill in a few rough areas that were too deep to feather but too shallow for bondo on my roof I also picked up some glass mat, resin, and thin ss to spot-weld and shave my spoiler mounting holes. I set out to do that a while ago but hey, shit happens. To me, paint and body is easier that tuning. I wouldn't say it's not as frustrating because it can be but i'm up to the task. I love working with bondo and fiberglass. I had soooo many dents in my car when i purchased it. Im dent-free now. You can't even tell unless you try to stick a magnet to the car in some spots....

To do the whole car, minus door jams and insides or doors, hatch and under hood, you will need 4 quarts to do an Eclipse/Talon. If you do the door sills and everything else, 5 quarts. As for primer and clear coat, its cheaper to just get a gallon of both. On my car, I used 4.5 quarts to do the whole car, all inside of hatch and doors, and all jams as well, minus the under hood which I painted gloss black instead of blue.

And Ronin...I am only telling him to use the acrylic enamel to practice painting with. NOT to paint his car with. Acrylic obviously wouldnt last! lol. Acrylic is a good learner to use too because its somewhat thick.

I know its alot to ask but can you post up a writeup of the steps when painting? I have alot of questions like can or do you wet sand inbetween base coats and any little tips and tricks. I'm planning on repainting my wrx. I've helped/painted my old car but i want to do it right.

Originally posted by eclipse_99rs
I know its alot to ask but can you post up a writeup of the steps when painting? I have alot of questions like can or do you wet sand inbetween base coats and any little tips and tricks. I'm planning on repainting my wrx. I've helped/painted my old car but i want to do it right.

I am going to be doing a write up for the wiki on it next spring, if you can wait until then because I am doing lots of body work to the wide body again and its getting a fresh new coat of paint on it.

As for sanding between coats, no.

I lay down the primer, wetsand that and look for any flaws, if there are some, fix them, reprime, resand. Then I just mainly tape everything off, lay everything out, and then it depends what process you do. You can do the base coat clear coat, where you just lay the color you want over the primer and then clear it, or what I do since I use House Of Kolor paint is I lay down what ever color base I am using to get the right color I want, usually its white, silver or black, let those flash coats dry, and then go over that with the color about 4-5 coats, letting it flash for 30 minutes between coats, and then I hit it with the clear, about 3-4 coats, but I let that flash for about an hour between coats since I use real SLOW reducer. The slower the reducer in the clear you use, the better the gloss because it dries slower.

Anyway, I am doing a complete write up with prepping, sanding, blocking, priming, painting, clearing, wetsanding and buffing this spring!!

Here's the steps i've completed so far:

1. Sand all dents and dings down to bare metal going an inch or so around the perimiter of the "blemish".

2. Mix bondo and hardner (or fiber fill)

3. Apply, pushing it into the metal by using a sweeping motion of the applicator.

4. Allow to harden up enough to shape with a cheese grater or an agressive file.

5. Sand the fuck out of the bondo until the area is flush with the body and meets the original contour.

6. Sand entire car down with 320 grit.

7. Sand entire car down in a perpendicular direction from the last sanding with 400 grit

8. Wetsand with 1000 grit

9. wash car.

10. Dry car.

11. Prime

12. check for imperfections

13. Fix imperfections

14. wet sand with 1000 grit again.

Now, i'm waiting for oem fenders and a turbo spoiler. I think i'm going with a lip add on and then a splitter with the stocker. It's possible i'll have some 2gb skirts and door caps. I just have to get in touch with the guy who has them and see what he wants for them.

Here's the lower lip. TC Sportline is the listed vendor but i can't find it on their page. Ebay link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PU-97-98-99-ECLIPSE-SPORT-URETHANE-FRONT-LIP-BODY-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36475QQihZ016QQitemZ260185369377QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I'd have to mold it in somehow while still retaining flexibility without cracking incase of a mishap. Do they make any flexible fiber resins that would aid in that?

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Here's the steps i've completed so far: 1. Sand all dents and dings down to bare metal going an inch or so around the perimiter of the "blemish". 2. Mix bondo and hardner (or fiber fill) 3. Apply, pushing it into the metal by using a sweeping motion of the applicator. 4. Allow to harden up enough to shape with a cheese grater or an agressive file. 5. Sand the fuck out of the bondo until the area is flush with the body and meets the original contour. 6. Sand entire car down with 320 grit. 7. Sand entire car down in a perpendicular direction from the last sanding with 400 grit 8. Wetsand with 1000 grit 9. wash car. 10. Dry car. 11. Prime 12. check for imperfections 13. Fix imperfections 14. wet sand with 1000 grit again. Now, i'm waiting for oem fenders and a turbo spoiler. I think i'm going with a lip add on and then a splitter with the stocker. It's possible i'll have some 2gb skirts and door caps. I just have to get in touch with the guy who has them and see what he wants for them. Here's the lower lip. TC Sportline is the listed vendor but i can't find it on their page. Ebay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PU-97-98-99-ECLIPSE-SPORT-URETHANE-FRONT-LIP-BODY-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36475QQihZ016QQitemZ260185369377QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I'd have to mold it in somehow while still retaining flexibility without cracking incase of a mishap. Do they make any flexible fiber resins that would aid in that?

After you sand the car down, you dont need to wetsand it. Also, DO NOT wash the car. Get some laquer thinner or something or they sell the right stuff to use at a paint shop, i forget what its called, but you just wipe the whole car down clear and then prime or paint it. The substances in the soap when washing the car sometimes has effects on paint or primer before hand for some reason, so dont wash it. Just sand it down with some 320, then go over the whole car block sanding it with some 400-550, clean it up, tape it off, and shoot some primer on it.

EDIT: And for flexible filler. Yes they make it, I used it on my front bumper to mold the widebody pieces to it, its made by UPOL, I forget what its called, but I will look for you tonight when I get home from work.

Well thanks.

The only reason i wet-sanded with fine grit was to see imperfections that would show up in the finished job. OCD i guess.

Or you could take your car to mike and have him do it for ya like i am.
That way it turns out great for sure.

I'm all the way in Charlotte, NC.

:D

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
I'm all the way in Charlotte, NC. :D

I'm in Toronto Canada :D

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Here's the steps i've completed so far: 1. Sand all dents and dings down to bare metal going an inch or so around the perimiter of the "blemish". 2. Mix bondo and hardner (or fiber fill) 3. Apply, pushing it into the metal by using a sweeping motion of the applicator. 4. Allow to harden up enough to shape with a cheese grater or an agressive file. 5. Sand the fuck out of the bondo until the area is flush with the body and meets the original contour. 6. Sand entire car down with 320 grit. 7. Sand entire car down in a perpendicular direction from the last sanding with 400 grit 8. Wetsand with 1000 grit 9. wash car. 10. Dry car. 11. Prime 12. check for imperfections 13. Fix imperfections 14. wet sand with 1000 grit again. Now, i'm waiting for oem fenders and a turbo spoiler. I think i'm going with a lip add on and then a splitter with the stocker. It's possible i'll have some 2gb skirts and door caps. I just have to get in touch with the guy who has them and see what he wants for them. Here's the lower lip. TC Sportline is the listed vendor but i can't find it on their page. Ebay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PU-97-98-99-ECLIPSE-SPORT-URETHANE-FRONT-LIP-BODY-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36475QQihZ016QQitemZ260185369377QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I'd have to mold it in somehow while still retaining flexibility without cracking incase of a mishap. Do they make any flexible fiber resins that would aid in that?

some of your steps are way off . here this is better
1wetsand whole car with 1000 grit to knock off clear coat .

2.5Sand all dents and dings down to bare metal going an inch or so around the perimiter of the "blemish".(feather edge)

2. Mix polyester glazing putty better)

3. Apply, pushing it into the metal by using a sweeping motion of the applicator.

4. Allow to harden up enough to shape with 100grit to 180

5. Sand until the area is flush with the body and meets the original contour.(2 skim coats )

6. finish filler with 320 grit

7. smoke some pot !
8. clean car with Prep solvent (critical )

9. check for imperfections

10. Fix imperfections
11 mask vehicle
12. Prime

13. wet sand with 600 grit

14. check for imperfections

15 prep solve
15.5 remask
16 spray basecoat

17 spray clearcoat

18 wetsand with 1500 after 24 hours .

19 buff with machine compound

20 buff with machine polish glaze and hand glaze

Originally posted by boosted60trimrst

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS Here's the steps i've completed so far: 1. Sand all dents and dings down to bare metal going an inch or so around the perimiter of the "blemish". 2. Mix bondo and hardner (or fiber fill) 3. Apply, pushing it into the metal by using a sweeping motion of the applicator. 4. Allow to harden up enough to shape with a cheese grater or an agressive file. 5. Sand the fuck out of the bondo until the area is flush with the body and meets the original contour. 6. Sand entire car down with 320 grit. 7. Sand entire car down in a perpendicular direction from the last sanding with 400 grit 8. Wetsand with 1000 grit 9. wash car. 10. Dry car. 11. Prime 12. check for imperfections 13. Fix imperfections 14. wet sand with 1000 grit again. Now, i'm waiting for oem fenders and a turbo spoiler. I think i'm going with a lip add on and then a splitter with the stocker. It's possible i'll have some 2gb skirts and door caps. I just have to get in touch with the guy who has them and see what he wants for them. Here's the lower lip. TC Sportline is the listed vendor but i can't find it on their page. Ebay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PU-97-98-99-ECLIPSE-SPORT-URETHANE-FRONT-LIP-BODY-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36475QQihZ016QQitemZ260185369377QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I'd have to mold it in somehow while still retaining flexibility without cracking incase of a mishap. Do they make any flexible fiber resins that would aid in that?

some of your steps are way off . here this is better 1wetsand whole car with 1000 grit to knock off clear coat . 2.5Sand all dents and dings down to bare metal going an inch or so around the perimiter of the "blemish".(feather edge) 2. Mix polyester glazing putty better) 3. Apply, pushing it into the metal by using a sweeping motion of the applicator. 4. Allow to harden up enough to shape with 100grit to 180 5. Sand until the area is flush with the body and meets the original contour.(2 skim coats ) 6. finish filler with 320 grit 7. smoke some pot ! 8. clean car with Prep solvent (critical ) 9. check for imperfections 10. Fix imperfections 11 mask vehicle 12. Prime 13. wet sand with 600 grit 14. check for imperfections 15 prep solve 15.5 remask 16 spray basecoat 17 spray clearcoat 18 wetsand with 1500 after 24 hours . 19 buff with machine compound 20 buff with machine polish glaze and hand glaze

eh, there is no point in wetsanding the car down first. just hit the whole car with some 320, the primer will adhere to it better then wetsanded surface.

Just scuff the whole car down with a scuff pad and shoot over it. That has always worked great for me when I have painted cars.

Also, if you primer, you can block that (wet or dry) and instead of repriming and sanding, just spray some sealer over it and then shoot base and clear. Don't need to sand in between those unless you run it.

Wow. Thanks a ton.

Saved me a buttload of work.

My elbows hurt like hell when i finished repairing most of the body. 320 it is. I'll probably use the good ol power sander.

I thought if you use rattle can primer when you go to paint the reducer you put in the actual paint affects the primer. When I did my body work since I had no means of a spray gun the paint shop sold me roll on primer. I did my hole car with it is a high build roll on. The kit comes with hardners and all the things you need. I will look later and see if I have any left to give you a product name
jason

I'm probably going to prime with real paint gun primer over the rattle can shit. I dont like how it covered so i'm going over it with 320.


Your car is one of the few that actually looks good with a wing and a blitz kit. Doesn't look ricey at all. Just thought i'd give my 2 cents....

Originally posted by jasonfromyorkpa
I thought if you use rattle can primer when you go to paint the reducer you put in the actual paint affects the primer. When I did my body work since I had no means of a spray gun the paint shop sold me roll on primer. I did my hole car with it is a high build roll on. The kit comes with hardners and all the things you need. I will look later and see if I have any left to give you a product name jason

Correct, mosy of the time, the primers or paints hardner or reducer will have a bubbling effect on aersol cans, which are a no no!

What kind of spray gun do you guys use, I'm getting a really nice gravity feed gun.

Originally posted by eclipse_99rs
What kind of spray gun do you guys use, I'm getting a really nice gravity feed gun.

I use a newer snap on gravity feed gun for paint and clear and just a normal gun withe bottom cup for primers.

Is it necessary to prime the whole car? or can you just prime the parts with the filler? It seems like there are a few different opinions on this. And also I'm thinking of doing a two tone paint job. What kind of tape should i use to tape across a body panel, I feel that painters masking tape would leave a rough line. I'm going with blue bottom and black top similar to a talon.

Originally posted by eclipse_99rs
Is it necessary to prime the whole car? or can you just prime the parts with the filler? It seems like there are a few different opinions on this. And also I'm thinking of doing a two tone paint job. What kind of tape should i use to tape across a body panel, I feel that painters masking tape would leave a rough line. I'm going with blue bottom and black top similar to a talon.

Priming the entire car is not necessary. Just hit your filled spots. If your not priming the whole car though, I would throw down a thin basecoat across the whole car though.

For masking, I always ONLY use the 3m green tape. Thats what the body shop at our dealership uses too.