well it looks like its time to do the caps on the ECU...the stalling problem has gotten worse and the car now idles like crap no matter what I adjust on the SAFC---it just bounces around in 200rpm increments. I'm hoping the caps haven't eaten through the board...

I know Tony and a few others have done the ECU thing, and my question is what is the best route to go? I don't think i'm comfortable doing the caps myself--anyone have any reccommendations as to who to use?

Should I just find a 95 EPROM and swap that in, giving me the ability to use a chip later?

thanks!
matt

well i assume your using a 255lph pump, your regulator could be overrun at idle

leaky caps will cause your car to do lots of weird things but stalling and rough idle really aren't a symptom. That sounds more like a a bad vaccuum leak somewhere. If it just randomly shuts off after running perfectly fine and won't start and you hear clicking from the dash, THAT'S your caps leaking.
Take out the ECU and open it up. If it smells like fish, they need to be changed.
Swapping them isn't really that difficult. If you don't think you can handle it, order the parts and take it to like a electronics/radio repair place and they can do it pretty cheap. If not, ask the geeks at Radio Shack. :P
95 ECU? Don't you have a 1G? Just get a 1G eeprom ECU. If you have a 2G, than it's DEFINTLY NOT your caps leaking...

Yeah 2G's generally do not have problems with leaky caps.

It really sounds like a nasty boost leak. Also have you checked your base timing?

Originally posted by Jeff_99gs
Yeah 2G's generally do not have problems with leaky caps. It really sounds like a nasty boost leak. Also have you checked your base timing?

hey learn something new everyday! No, but I can check base timing by using a pocketlogger, yes? I'm going to start tuning the car again now that i'm in the groove with school and the army, so to speak.

It could definitely be a vac leak, but it only really stalls after I disconnect the battery and reset the ECU (like when i'm working on it). Then it stalls when I get off the gas or give it heavy braking---but the problem goes away after a few days of driving, making me think its something else besides a vac leak. I also adjusted the SAFC to no avail---i'll do a boost leakdown test as soon as I can get a free min (probably friday) and post base timing hopefully tonight.

vandy

Base Timing = Timing light. The only way to check it.

What you see on the logger is ECU adjusted timing, which has many factors placed on the base timing to get that value.

Get yourself access to a timing light and check it out.

thanks!! my buddy has one for his bike, i'll recruit him this weekend to help out...