Update: The problem with the car I purchased wasn't crankwalk. It was a rod bearing.

Anyways, I'm about to purchase my 6 bolt. I have an entire list of importers. The one that I'm leaning toward is totaljdm.com. If anyone recommends anyone else, please share. It's being ordered early next week.

The real reason why I'm posting is for the tranny swap, which is totally new territory for me. I've never worked on drivetrain, but my uncle is going to oversee the operation. Many questions here. Can I use the same pedal assembly and shifting assembly (in console) as an RS, etc? Do I need to get axles from a manual? Does the ECU need to go with the year of my tranny?

So far I know I need:
Transfer case
Clutch (ACT 2600)
Flywheel (Alum)
Tranny
Shift linkages
Shift assembly
ECU (2g)
Slave cylinder
Differentials

I'm sure when I'm up to my ears, I'll have more specific questions. I've read entirely through vfaq. Just making sure that I'll have the necessary parts, so when I'm reading through my helms, I'm not missing anything to stop the project. Thanks in advance.

what year is the car?
I don't think you'll be able to use all the pedal/shifter assembly stuff from a NT car but I could be wrong.

I still disagree with everything you are doing, but since you are doing it regardless of what others think, here is some advice.

If you are buying a full 6 bolt from one of those JDM sites, MAKE SURE you know what you are buying. Get real pictures before you buy it as they almost always have problems that are conveniently left out. One look at the Nissan forums shows how many trashed SR20DET's show up from these various "JDM Importers" as low mileage, perfect condition engines.

You will need to change the timing belt, balance shaft belt, water pump, pulleys, tensioners, and all that jazz while the engine is out of the car. You have no idea if the engine was abused or how many miles are actually on it. Just be safe and change the belts now. If I were you, I would also take the head off, replace the headgasket, and install ARP head studs. Check the turbo for shaft play and the exhaust manifold and turbo for cracks, as there will definitely be some.

Also every true JDM 6 bolt was a '90 style, meaning it uses an air- cooled oil filter housing. The hardware will not be with the engine when you get it, so you will either want to order an external oil cooler from Summit and the appropriate AN fittings and SS lines, or you will have to locate a 6 bolt water-cooled oil filter housing. If you do that, you will also have to find a 91-94 water pipe and related lines as well as a '91 style water neck. Also the throttle body will be a '90 style which will have to be changed for use with the 2G electronics. This also means that the intake manifold will be slightly different requiring spacers, but you will find that out when you get to that point. There are other issues I am sure, but I can't remember them at this moment.


I'm just trying to let you know that there is a lot more involved in something like this than you think.

Originally posted by Jeff_99gs
I still disagree with everything you are doing, but since you are doing it regardless of what others think, here is some advice. If you are buying a full 6 bolt from one of those JDM sites, MAKE SURE you know what you are buying. Get real pictures before you buy it as they almost always have problems that are conveniently left out. One look at the Nissan forums shows how many trashed SR20DET's show up from these various "JDM Importers" as low mileage, perfect condition engines. You will need to change the timing belt, balance shaft belt, water pump, pulleys, tensioners, and all that jazz while the engine is out of the car. You have no idea if the engine was abused or how many miles are actually on it. Just be safe and change the belts now. If I were you, I would also take the head off, replace the headgasket, and install ARP head studs. Check the turbo for shaft play and the exhaust manifold and turbo for cracks, as there will definitely be some. Also every true JDM 6 bolt was a '90 style, meaning it uses an air- cooled oil filter housing. The hardware will not be with the engine when you get it, so you will either want to order an external oil cooler from Summit and the appropriate AN fittings and SS lines, or you will have to locate a 6 bolt water-cooled oil filter housing. If you do that, you will also have to find a 91-94 water pipe and related lines as well as a '91 style water neck. Also the throttle body will be a '90 style which will have to be changed for use with the 2G electronics. This also means that the intake manifold will be slightly different requiring spacers, but you will find that out when you get to that point. There are other issues I am sure, but I can't remember them at this moment. I'm just trying to let you know that there is a lot more involved in something like this than you think.

:whoa If I were in that situation, I think I'd just find a 6 bolt longblock and spend the same money and time building it myself...

Originally posted by eclipzGST
If I were in that situation, I think I'd just find a 6 bolt longblock and spend the same money and time building it myself...

Or just another perfectly fine stock 7 bolt bottom end capable of 450hp when properly maintained and modified. :shrug

My 6-bolt came from a company named Soshin in Southern CA. They were recommended by Road/Race to me. I got it in mint condition and the timing belt looked like it had about 30K on it. www.soshinusa.com
that is a start but it sounds like you are about to get in over your head. the 6-bolt will need new motor mounts for a 2g, throttle body, depending on the year engine they send you, you could need countless other mods to make it work. Some of these things were mentioned in threads before, but just giving you some fair warning. good luck

Originally posted by scottfreeman80
the timing belt looked like it had about 30K on it.

:scratch My 65K timing belt still "looked" brand new. I would ABSOLUTLEY under NO circumstances EVER try to eyeball the age of a timing belt or ANY part other than maybe tires.

Originally posted by eclipzGST
I would ABSOLUTLEY under NO circumstances EVER try to eyeball the age of a timing belt or ANY part

Sooth. Avoid the temptation to do otherwise.

I spent all afternoon yesterday calling EVERY single importer that I could find. Absolutely no luck after 30 some phone calls. TotalJDM site is down and he doesn't answer his phone. I'm gonna go with you guys and send the 7 bolt in it to a machine shop. I'll get it ported and have forged parts. The most important thing to me is the MTX swap. I just want to be sure that I'll have all the parts to I can have at it while the engine is away being built. Please let me know if something is missing, etc.

take it easy tony. it was a guess, you know...an estimate based on the condition of the belts and if there were stretch marks/cracks, expansion points, and other things like that. i would recommend to anyone doing a 6bolt swap to do the timing/tensioner belts. back to the point...
I would not rebuild your 7bolt. Find a donor 2g or go with the 6-bolt option. Some parts that need to be machined have a nitrate seal or coat on them from the factory and many shops do not take this into account when rebuilding an engine. good luck.

Originally posted by scottfreeman80
take it easy tony. it was a guess, you know...an estimate based on the condition of the belts and if there were stretch marks/cracks, expansion points, and other things like that.

I just don't want anyone else reading these threads to think, "eh, the timing belt looks pretty new, I won't bother..."

Why not rebuild the 7 bolt already in it? It's a 95 GSX by the way. Did I cover everything for the swap?

Of course you can rebuild the 7 bolt. Jesus Christ the misinformation in this forum is HORRIBLE.

Rebuild the 7 bolt man. It will be just FINE. Or find a good condition stock 7 bolt block that some jackass ripped out of an otherwise perfect 2g because he wanted to do the useless 6 bolt mod for no reason.

Used 7 bolt blocks are really cheap.

Originally posted by Jeff_99gs
Of course you can rebuild the 7 bolt. Jesus Christ the misinformation in this forum is HORRIBLE. Rebuild the 7 bolt man. It will be just FINE. Or find a good condition stock 7 bolt block that some jackass ripped out of an otherwise perfect 2g because he wanted to do the useless 6 bolt mod for no reason. Used 7 bolt blocks are really cheap.

Ah man Jeff you gotta see this thread i had going on tuners about this same dumb thing. People are terrified of the 7 bolt. People hear any type of noise and assume its gotta be crankwalk or something associated with it.

Back on topic:
If your 7 bolt is fine , I say stick with it and save your money. There is very fast 7 bolts in the world. Bigbald will be one.


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i dont know what you guys are talking about, 7 bolts are scary. every little sound you hear IS crankwalk. i would never pee on a 7 bolt. :+

I need people to help me out with my transmission swap. Information like what's goin on in the AWD discussion started for a 1g recently. Spline count on the xfer case/ ECU pinouts/ the actual tranny??? Can I mix 95 with 99 parts? ETC. /\ (top)

7 Bolts RULE!!!!!!!!!