Yup, threw in a brand new thermostat, bottle of water wetter, new hoses, new radiator cap, still overheating at 80mph with the A/C turned on.



SON OF A BITCH!!!!!!


What else do I have to look at?? My antifreeze mixture should be fine, but I'm going to have that tested to make sure it isn't all contaminated, but after that, what are my options? Aluminum Radiator, Headgasket???

Please help!!!

Any chance your radiator has a leak in it? This happened to me and caused me to overheat.

sell it and buy a n/t

Originally posted by BMPDirk
sell it and buy an n/t

lol

FLUIDYNE.

Seriously, get the damn Fluidyne. It is $350 from RRE and 100% worth it. The hoses and caps and whatever was a waste of money. Before you go slicing up your nice bumper, pay the $350 and get the Fluidyne. You won't regret it. Also make sure you have two SPAL fans spinning in there too.

Are you still using a 50/50 mix? You will need to change that and use more water....80/20. Are you using DSMLink ot turn the fans on early? Are you still using stock fans? Have you altered your bumper to make sure the radiator is getting air to it?

question.......at 80mph, why do u need to use the AC? put the windows down

Originally posted by BMPDirk
question.......at 80mph, why do u need to use the AC? put the windows down

Arizona dude, 105* + 0% humidity + dark car = hot as hell.

Originally posted by Jeff_99gs
FLUIDYNE. Seriously, get the damn Fluidyne. It is $350 from RRE and 100% worth it. The hoses and caps and whatever was a waste of money. Before you go slicing up your nice bumper, pay the $350 and get the Fluidyne. You won't regret it. Also make sure you have two SPAL fans spinning in there too.

Jeff, I knew the hoses and such was not going to help out, it was just for looks.

I'm holding off on the fluidyne, I'm not ready to spend that much money on fixing my A/C yet. And I'm not cutting up the bumper just yet either.


Could my FMIC be filled with crap and not letting air get to the radiator??

Originally posted by FlyinEsi
Could my FMIC be filled with crap and not letting air get to the radiator??

Highly unlikely. I would personally be draining whatever is in your cooling system and doublechecking there is no oil in there. Same goes for your crank case and no coolant. After that I would be putting in a cooler thermostat (if applicable) and wiring the fans so that both come one instead of just the one. A clogged or damaged radiator can cause your symptoms if prolonged. I regular coolant flush isn't going to get out that shit in the radiator if that's the case. You're going to have to actually take it out and inspect it yourself, replace and/or upgrade if need be. Hot and dry weather require special attention.

Dude, you rock, you registered just to reply to this thread!!!


Edit: Yes, I can understand having to rewire, but even when I manually switch on the 12" spal fan, it doesn't help at all.

Will be looking into the antifreeze in the oil and visa versa problem after this weekend, and if there is nothing there, I'm going to look at fluidyne.

you need two 12" spal fans for that kind of weather to come on at the same time. Also switch your mix....run more water and less coolant. I would also set up DSMlink to turn fans on once coolant temps reach 170*. After that, try adding holes/cutting the bumper to allow the radiator to receive some air.

I find it odd you are not ready to buy a radiator, but ready to spen 100 on some hoses....lol.

Originally posted by BigBald
you need two 12" spal fans for that kind of weather to come on at the same time. Also switch your mix....run more water and less coolant. I would also set up DSMlink to turn fans on once coolant temps reach 170*. After that, try adding holes/cutting the bumper to allow the radiator to receive some air. I find it odd you are not ready to buy a radiator, but ready to spen 100 on some hoses....lol.

Jerrome, I will get DSMlink plugged in as soon as I get my powercord back from my friend so I can charge the battery back up again. I also don't know much about wiring, but I'm going to wire the fans together too. Only 1 12" spal fan right now though.

I'm also not worried about spending the money on the radiator if I knew it would fix it, but I'm more worried it is the headgasket, because I have not always had this problem and when I drained the antifreeze last night, it did have a bit of a darker color.

Just so I know what I'm looking at, how much does it cost to replace the headgasket. W/O labor, because I'm sure I can recruit some people to help me out with that.

I got an OEM headgasket for $25. Add oil, coolant, oil filter, and RTV to that plus ARP headstuds and you are around $150. Without labor, of course. Granted I had a hookup for the headgasket.

Originally posted by Jeff_99gs
I got an OEM headgasket for $25. Add oil, coolant, oil filter, and RTV to that plus ARP headstuds and you are around $150. Without labor, of course. Granted I had a hookup for the headgasket.

Do you think the OEM headgasket is good enough, I have heard of thicker or stronger headgaskets, should I consider that since I am running 21 psi?

And how much is the headgasket w/o a hookup.

Originally posted by FlyinEsi
Do you think the OEM headgasket is good enough, I have heard of thicker or stronger headgaskets, should I consider that since I am running 21 psi?

also in the same boat. What do you think about the Metal Mitsu HG? worth it or waste of time?

On the same subject, is it ok to just get the head decked for a HG install? If not, how the heck do you get the block decked?

I used an OEM HG because you don't need to deck the head to get a proper seal as is mandatory with a metal HG.

I think they are around $75 with no hookup.

A brand new OEM HG is fine for 21psi daily driven. Just get ARP head studs and torque them down to 130 ft lbs and you will be fine. (My talon's HG has been perfect in the 2 years since I installed the HG running 22-24psi daily on the Green.)

Originally posted by Jeff_99gs
I used an OEM HG because you don't need to deck the head to get a proper seal as is mandatory with a metal HG. I think they are around $75 with no hookup. A brand new OEM HG is fine for 21psi daily driven. Just get ARP head studs and torque them down to 130 ft lbs and you will be fine. (My talon's HG has been perfect in the 2 years since I installed the HG running 22-24psi daily on the Green.)

Jeff -
Any chance you can get me hooked up and I'll send you paypal to cover the headgasket and shipping to me?

E-mail me please - ernestdan@hotmail.com or call me (check your PM)

I'll see what I can do.

I'm fucked...I think my radiator is busted...when I tightened the hose clamps I smashed in one of the radiator nipples...I had to straighten it out with pliers and it cracked the plastic. I have a leak on my lower radiator pipe now.

I'm hunting down the best price for a Fluidyne now.

I ended up overheating on the freeway on the way to work today. With the A/C turned off and everything. Pulled over and I was hella low on antifreeze. Good thing I had some extra with me, filled it up and made it to work.

Now I get to do it again so I can try to make it home.

Damn, sometimes I just hate this car.


Next Mod: Fluidyne Radiator

Yay! Now you are on the right path.

OEM headgaskets are $45 at Buschur now.

well I guess you have no choice now.....lol.