Well, its time! I'm having grinding in most gears, and sometimes the car will just refuse to shift into a gear. Started with 1st, now its moving to all 5...

I'm going to change from penzoil syncromesh back to BG, but I'm thinking my problems are much bigger than just tranny fluid. 85k...ouch, really soon!!

Questions:

1.) Is it better to buy a transmission from a junkyard and have it done by like shep or someone, or send in my own?

2.) How long is the whole process? I read alot of posts, it seemed like at least a month to do this. This could become an issue, as I have no place to store the car for said month and will be riding my motorcycle everywhere in january x(

3.) My ACT 2600/flywheel combo has about 35000 miles on it and still running strong. Should I buy a new clutch/flywheel with the tranny anyway?

4.) I want an LSD. Is this done at the tranny building step, or does it have to be done on the installation side of the house?

thanks all!

matt

1. I would send in your tranny....thats what I did.

2. It was a 1 week turnaround for me with Shep.

3. I would at the very least replace the clutch disc. I am surprised you even got 35k on a ACT clutch disc....most people I know only get 18-20k.

4. Shep can install the LSD for you.


Check out his new site www.sheptrans.com

link is a no go. :(

I think i'm gonna go ahead and do it, just gotta find the time now...

How tough is a transmission removal (i know, stupid question) for someone who's never even done a clutch? I have access to the post auto shop, but how much time do I need to bloc for that?

also, TRE vs. Shep? (www.teamrip.com)

P.S. the VFAQ link is dead---

anyone know of a good write up on tranny removal?

thanks again!

the first time i dropped the tranny it took me two days.....lol. I was scared and nervous. I can now have it dropped in about and hour or so.....easily.

The shep link works for me. TRE is just as good as shep, However their turnaround time sux from what read and heard. All a matter of preference.

thanks for the help, i really appreciate it! i'm gonna try new fluid/ajusting cables, then i'm gonna get in touch with shep and take 3 days leave to do it (take it out), then 3 more to put it back in.

It'll be nice to have a smooth, stout tranny. It just sucks to lose all my motorcycle savings on a fucking transmission for the DSM. I'd just sell it and buy something cheap/reliable, but I'd still end up losing my savings doing that too. :(

well, I think its good news...

I looked under the hood with more detail in the daylight over lunch, the clutch fluid cylender was bone dry...just stained at the correct marking level. There's also clutch fluid (a small amount) creeping out from the firewall onto the clutch pedal assembly. Hopefully this leak / lack of fluid is the issue, and hopefully I didin't trash the tranny too much by trying to finesse it into gear w/o the clutch fully disengaged...

If turnaround and downtime is a big thing for you, call TRE they have any built trannys sitting around waitin to shop out. That is what I did. He shipped me a tranny and I used his crate to ship my old one back to him. Tranny shifted beautifully for the first 15K miles of it.

Go with Shepherd. You won't regret it.

Originally posted by FlyinEsi
Tranny shifted beautifully for the first 15K miles of it.

Yeah ok that statement makes me not want to go with TRE. I think i am gonna go with shep, but now i gotta figure out if a.) Bleeding the clutch will let me shift until warmer months when I can ride my bike around for 2 weeks no problem. or b.) Can I buy/is it worth buying a riding suit to be warm enough to commute. AND c.) Should I just sell the damn thing and buy the bike I want and a beater.

Its not that i'm losing interest in DSM's, its just i'm gaining so much more in motorcycles and since I just started a new job, its tough to have two of these expensive hobbies with my crap-tacular paycheck (although its alot higher than many soldiers, cost of living in DC is INSANE, as you all know).

dan-- did you put the tranny in yourself? How many people did you need? I know i'm not on the mechanical level of jeff or matt, so i'm asking someone (don't take this badly or the wrong way) that's a little more my speed...

matt

my dream bike: http://www.suzuki-bikes.com/2005SV1000S.php

~ 110 hp, V twin, flat torque curve starting at 69 ft/lbs @ 1500 rpm and finishing at 71 @ redline

I did not install it either, my dad did it by himself, and my clutch, but he is a mechanic of 30+ years.

And my statement about shifting for 15K miles, that is how many miles I had on the tranny before I wrecked my car. The tranny is still shifted flawlessly.

i agree to go with shep.

have you ridden a bike before, how long? you dont want your first bike to be a nice one, you will drop it. you can get winter gear to ride, the question is will you be able to keep traction in the snow and ice. i tried riding a pedal bike on ice once and it didnt work out so great. you could probly get winter tires or something to help with that. i would replace the tranny in the spring and get the bike to ride during that time. hopefully that clutch fluid will be a bandaid until you can do it. dont sell her, you wont get a quater of what you have put into her.

yeah i've been riding now for almost a year almost every day. Yeah I just saw another few, much cleaner (literally) eclipses on the road and I really want to save her...I just don't want to drop my savings on a tranny when i've got my eye on that bike. I can get about 3k out of my bike, and I had 3 of the 5 more g's i'd need to get the new bike..but not anymore :(

I gotta check out the auto crafts shop on post to see if its good enough to use for this...

Originally posted by Vandy420a
the clutch fluid cylender was bone dry...just stained at the correct marking level. There's also clutch fluid (a small amount) creeping out from the firewall onto the clutch pedal assembly.

That's most likely your only problem. A new clutch master cylinder from Mitsu will cost about $85. Plan to spend a little time with changing them out, it can be a bitch under the dash to get things apart and back together. Then see how your tranny is before you spend a ton of money.

we're talking about the clutch slave cylinder, right? and the brake master cylinder? Or is it the clutch master that I need to check?


thanks!

Originally posted by Vandy420a
we're talking about the clutch slave cylinder, right? and the brake master cylinder? Or is it the clutch master that I need to check? thanks!

Clutch Master, that's why it's leaking on the inside.

Originally posted by Vandy420a
we're talking about the clutch slave cylinder, right? and the brake master cylinder? Or is it the clutch master that I need to check? thanks!

There's a brake master cylinder as well as a clutch master cylinder and a clutch slave cylinder. There's a rod from the the clutch pedal through the firewall to the clutch master cylinder, in there is a seal that leaks over time. You'll need to replace the whole clutch master cylinder.

When I shift my shep tranny, it feels like im shifting a lambo, it feels insane

Originally posted by DSMxTSi

Originally posted by Vandy420a we're talking about the clutch slave cylinder, right? and the brake master cylinder? Or is it the clutch master that I need to check? thanks!

There's a brake master cylinder as well as a clutch master cylinder and a clutch slave cylinder. There's a rod from the the clutch pedal through the firewall to the clutch master cylinder, in there is a seal that leaks over time. You'll need to replace the whole clutch master cylinder.

thanks for the clarification! calling mitsu right now.. :thumbsup

FYI....the slave cylinder is on the front of the transmission.

anyone have a write up on the master cylinder replacement? I found one for a 1g on the slave, but nothing on the master.... :shrug


thanks for the heads up, BTW.

Originally posted by Vandy420a
anyone have a write up on the master cylinder replacement? I found one for a 1g on the slave, but nothing on the master.... :shrug thanks for the heads up, BTW.

I haven't seen one, but it's really straightforward imo.
There are two bolts through the firewall, one you'll get from the engine bay side and the other from under the dash. There's a pin through the clutch pedal arm with a retaining clip that you'll need to remove, do this before removing the bolts so it'll hold steady for you. You'll need to move the filler resevoir out of the way to pull the clutch master cylinder out, and it'll only slide out one way.
That's the jist of it. I may be forgetting some minor things, but nothing you won't easily figure out.
After you get the new one in there, you'll need someone to help you bleed the system unless you get a speed bleeder. Have you done the slave cylinder mod? May as well do it now if you haven't.

no, what's the slave cylinder mod? They mention it on www.teamrip.com but i've never seen it...

They are probably talking about this....

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm

Go 2/3 the way down, it is the SS Braided Clutch Flex Line, photo and install instructions.

Originally posted by FlyinEsi
They are probably talking about this.... http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm Go 2/3 the way down, it is the SS Braided Clutch Flex Line, photo and install instructions.

Nope, although that's a worthy mod too.
I'm talking about the restrictor mod....

http://www.jumptronix.com/2g_go_faster/Faqs/clutch_restrictor_removal_faq.htm