Well finally got my new car running with the new oil line but my boost will cut out. not all the time just sometimes?? its weird. i start it up in the morning drive it around fine boosting 10lbs. then go home turn it off and then go out alittle while later and drive it and it cuts at 6lbs. this is on my autometer boost guage not stock guage. it does this constantly! one time it will be fine the entire time driving until i turn it off and when i turn it back on its fucked up! theres no boost leak that i found. i did my own test

1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

Are you on stock BCS (Boost Control Solenoid)?

Or MBC (Manual Boost Controller)?

Originally posted by JayWeezie88
Are you on stock BCS (Boost Control Solenoid)? Or MBC (Manual Boost Controller)?

x2.

MBC i disconnected the BCS

ive looked at all vaccum lines and everything is hooked up and everything thats cancelled is plugged up. it only does this every other time i drive. its annoying

1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

Wow, when I saw your username and the title to this thread I was like, of course he has boost problems. lol.


So you don't have a MBC hooked up currently?

haha yes my user name is like a year old when i had dreams for my 420A then i changed plans and bought a 1g tsi and now its my project/basically DD lol. and i do have my MBC hooked up.


1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

What kind of controller is it

Also try doing a vacuum leak test and a boost leak test. Maybe when the car is at operating temp. something isn't tight or zip tied and is expanding causing a little leak.

maybe this helps alittle. when im driving slow or sometimes fast and im boosting alittle like a couple pounds and i let of the gas i hear a were whistle noise like a bird or something but its the car haha


1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

lol BOV maybe? (Referring to whistle noise)

Originally posted by JayWeezie88
What kind of controller is it Also try doing a vacuum leak test and a boost leak test. Maybe when the car is at operating temp. something isn't tight or zip tied and is expanding causing a little leak.

He said he did a boost leak test already.

yea i did a boost leak test and found that a coupler needed to be replaced so i replaced it and it stills does it like the coupler didnt do anything.


1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

you think the BOV could be leaking to make it jerk like that? how would i make it so it doesnt leak. i dont have the money to get a new one yet.


1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

Originally posted by Dsm98Nt
you think the BOV could be leaking to make it jerk like that? how would i make it so it doesnt leak. i dont have the money to get a new one yet.

Is the BOV recirculated like it should be? It's normal to whistle under low boost venting.
Get another used 1G BOV, they can be found for $20...
Weird that won't go higher than 6 psi. Thats a BIG leak otherwise the turbo just works a little harder to maintain set boost.
You said that sometimes it works fine?
Lot's of things don't make sense to me...

yea it only happens sometimes. its wierd ill start the car 1 day and it will boost fine at about 13lbs and then ill turn it off and the gas station or something and then it craps out on me... ITS SO CONFUSING LOL. Doesnt make sense!!


1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

any other problems? Starts ok? Doesn't stall out or shut off by itself?

no its fine. starts awesome and never dies on me. when this happens ill be boosting and range from 4-8psi and it like completely looses power like it dies and starts back up... if i can ill take a video if it helps explain it a bit more tomorrow. do you think spark plug wires would do this? i replaced the plugs with NGKS. freaking coolant like busted today so i gotta replace it tomorrow. its right under the thermostat to and looks like a bitch to get too. ill be buying new wires soon hopefully tomorrow. what wires should i get? is there specific wires to get like the NGK plugs? i dont wanna get the crappy bosch crap.

EDIT: i also removed all the couplers to make sure for a fact that it wasnt them and then put them back on nice and snug. so it cant be the couplers.


1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

you are using a real boost gauge right? not the factory "guessing" gauge :P

Yeah he said he was using a Autometer boost gauge.

Does the gauge read vaccum too?

If so what are the values when your at idle, cruising, and decel.

no... it doesnt read vaccum. i was suppose to get the one that reads vaccum too but they sent me the wrong one and they said it could take 4 weeks for a return!! so i just stuck with this one. when i disconnect the boost gauge from the back while driving I can feel that theres quite a bit of vaccum lol so idk

1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

Originally posted by Dsm98Nt
i also removed all the couplers to make sure for a fact that it wasnt them and then put them back on nice and snug. so it cant be the couplers.

you did do a proper boost leak test and are not just relying on the "nice and snug" feel of the couplers right? Jutst because they "feel" tight doesn't mean thet can't leak like a sob.

can u read the a couple posts back??? i said i did a boost leak test so dont go and talk like that. Im not a idiot at cars... jesus. i did a boost leak test like 3 times so i think im right


1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

Dude, I think it's junk. I'll do you a favor and take it off your hands. I'll take the risk and give you $700 for it. :P

haha no thanks. its my project car so ill fix it sooner or later. not like i need it to get back and forth to work and stuff. ill end up getting a big 16g turbo and FMIC so it will fix it self lol. do you think spark plugs wires could do this?? ill be getting a SAFC soon thought that would be the first main thing to get. should i just go all the way and get the Neo? or get Safc 2?

1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

Hmm I'm stumped.

I would just get an SAFC or SAFC-2.

You can find a used one for around 150-200. I got a nice black one with the vent bezel from MachV. Its purdy.

Originally posted by JayWeezie88
Hmm I'm stumped. I would just get an SAFC or SAFC-2. You can find a used one for around 150-200. I got a nice black one with the vent bezel from MachV. Its purdy.

Throwing new parts like an SAFC at the car won't fix whatever the root cause of the intermitant boost is.

I'm not saying he should just throw an SAFC in there, he asked whether he should get an safc-2 or neo.

Originally posted by EclipseTical

Originally posted by JayWeezie88 Hmm I'm stumped. I would just get an SAFC or SAFC-2. You can find a used one for around 150-200. I got a nice black one with the vent bezel from MachV. Its purdy.

Throwing new parts like an SAFC at the car won't fix whatever the root cause of the intermitant boost is.

dude you should just not talk. you suck and dont know how to read. we relized that were stumped and i asked if i should get a safc2 or a neo and he answered me so just dont post on here anymore if you cant help
you have shared any valuable info have you? lol

1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

Play nice. Don't make me lock this.

im sorry i hate when ppl do that! well anyone have anymore suggestions? does anyone think spark plug wires could make this happen? and does it matter what brand of wires i get? i was just gonna get MSDs but dont have the money for them. i wanna get the boost fixed by the 27th cuz my friend is having his graduation party at a drag strip and wants me to race. By the way i cant wait to see his dads Ultima GTR run!! http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendid=177459571 watch the first video on the page thats the ultima doing i think it was 198mph and the second one is my friend dales firebird. Sorry im just excited to go haha let me know what you think of the ultmia.



1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

Spark plug wires carry spark from the coil pack to the plugs. They have nothing to do with boost. Now, if you had a horrible misfire...
If you want to swap them, just go with NGK's.
edit: Did you have this problem at all before you changed the oil feed line? Is everything clear around your wastegate actuator/arm? Checked turbo for shaft play?...

yea everything is clear and it did it before i replaced the feed line. the wastegate seems to look like it being held on by alittle weld on it. but i did take my air compressor and used the blower to blower into the wastegate actuator and it does open. maybe it gets stuck every so often??


EDIT: i went out again today and drove around and my car only boosted like 5lbs! WTF! so i went home did yet another boost leak test and came across alittle noise coming from the top of the smic. so i take off the uicp and put my hand over the top of the coupler and test it. sure enough i hear it again. so i take the coupler off and put my hand over the ic and sure enough i hear it!? so i look very close and see a pin size hold in the top were the coupler connects. could a pin size hole cause my problem with the leak??? im welding it right now and im going to test it soon.

1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

Take the IC out and clean it up good around the oulet with a wire brush. Crap collects there and you'll probably find more pinholes. A thin coat of JB Weld works fine.
Before that though, dump about 2 cups of gas in there and shake it up. Probably quite a bit of oil is coating the inside as well. Make sure you let it air out for a little while before re installation.
I doubt a few small pinholes will make your boost drop that much but you never know...

ok everything is welded and cleaned up and there was only 2 holes on the top. put everything together and drove and it still only boosted like 5-8lbs? so i pulled over and just took the MBC off and hooked the wg to the pipe and it went to like 9-10lbs. im like ok its alittle better so i put the MBC back on and it boosts about 13lbs now?? its kinda weird maybe there was a kink in the line but idk. so ill let everyone know how it go driving around. ill see if it stops doing the jerking. i guess you really have to look close to find problems thats what ive learned from this experience lol. Thanks everyone for helping! ill soon have a video up of me racing at the track haha. after that it sitting in the garage and waiting for its new goodies sometime soon. Whats the highest a stock td05 can boost to? i was just thinking of porting it out and sticking to the stock one for awhile.


1998 Eclipse GS - Daily Driver
1993 Talon TSI - Project Tsi Awd Auto

Originally posted by Dsm98Nt
ok everything is welded and cleaned up and there was only 2 holes on the top. put everything together and drove and it still only boosted like 5-8lbs? so i pulled over and just took the MBC off and hooked the wg to the pipe and it went to like 9-10lbs. im like ok its alittle better so i put the MBC back on and it boosts about 13lbs now?? its kinda weird maybe there was a kink in the line but idk. so ill let everyone know how it go driving around. ill see if it stops doing the jerking. i guess you really have to look close to find problems thats what ive learned from this experience lol. Thanks everyone for helping! ill soon have a video up of me racing at the track haha. after that it sitting in the garage and waiting for its new goodies sometime soon. Whats the highest a stock td05 can boost to? i was just thinking of porting it out and sticking to the stock one for awhile.

I'd get a new MBC and replace the lines. It might just be the spring is binding and not opening to bleed pressure.
Stock 14B (TD05) with supporting mods is good for 11's believe it or not. ;)
With stock fuel system, you can safely run 14-15 psi.
I noticed you have an AT, if you swap the turbo, get yourself some 450cc injectors and a MT ECU as well...
Happy boosting! :cheers

I started a new account just to say that lol. well back to your point with getting a MT ECU? what exactly will that do? and do you know much about AT turbo cars it seems like my car has a very slow start but once i get to about 20-25mph it takes off. but from 0-25 its kinda slow maybe turbo lag? i tryed brake torque it but it doesnt build boost like some ppl say that it does. ive heard that you can leave the line with some boost but mine doesnt??

I think in order to brake boost of off the line you need to have a high stall TQ converter. I'm not sure tho don't know much about AT.

And the AT's have 390cc injectors, also I don't know if I missed it but AT's have the 13g.
If you want I'll sell you my 450's cheap. PM me if your interested.

EDIT: I guess you do have a 14b since you were talking about porting one and putting the stocker back on.

yea the previous owner put a 14b on it (Guessing thats the td05) lol. and the AT comes with 390s? wow. how much would you sell the 450s for? i was just thinking to wait and buy some 550s.

ok ok i just noticed something today. i went for a drive today to goto get something to eat and then i turned it off when i got there. then i get back in and turn the key over and i happen to hear (what i think to be is the fuel flowing)? idk maybe priming the pump or lines or something? but when i hear that noise of the flowing and then start my car and drive it boosts. and when i turn the key and dont hear the noise it doesn't boost much and it cuts. its weird! ive done it multiple times and its done the same thing! a fuel pump thing? maybe injectors are to small? sooo annoying.

by the way this morning i hacked the MAF i took the honeycomb out and loosened the screw alittle bit. i could tell the difference in boost wise alittle bit. seems like boost is more constant and spools up alittle faster...

Originally posted by Talon93Awd
ok ok i just noticed something today. i went for a drive today to goto get something to eat and then i turned it off when i got there. then i get back in and turn the key over and i happen to hear (what i think to be is the fuel flowing)? idk maybe priming the pump or lines or something? but when i hear that noise of the flowing and then start my car and drive it boosts. and when i turn the key and dont hear the noise it doesn't boost much and it cuts. its weird! ive done it multiple times and its done the same thing! a fuel pump thing? maybe injectors are to small? sooo annoying. by the way this morning i hacked the MAF i took the honeycomb out and loosened the screw alittle bit. i could tell the difference in boost wise alittle bit. seems like boost is more constant and spools up alittle faster...

First, glad you got it working again. It's always something simple with these cars that can stump the hell out of you and have you wanting to :wallbash

Now for the new question, do you mean you turned the key to the ACC position or you turned the car all the way on? If its in the ACC position it sounds like what you are refering to is the pump priming as you speculated.

If you even have the slightest doubt that the pump isn't always working right then you might want to make sure your pump isn't about to shit the bed on you just for peace of mind. Bust out a voltmeter and see what is up w/ the pump just to rule it out.

A bad/going bad pump would definitely affect fuel delivery and no fuel + boost= hole in block.

As far as hacking the maf/removing honeycombs, i hope you have a logger handy to make sure you aren't leaning the crap out of the car, especially if you have a 14b and dinky injectors.

regardless, happy boostin :cheers

if i remember i read someone that when you loosen the screw that it makes it throw more fuel?

EDIT: nevermind just looked it up once again haha stupid me. i gotta stop waking up so early.

PM' sent.

Put the honeycombs back in. If the silencer hasn't been already removed, you can get rid of that. You can also cut the aircan to make the filter open to the air. But, the honycombs are there to straighten the air over the sensor and there's NO way you are flowing enough air to even make a difference.
A/T comes with 13G and 390's. The ECU is also programmed with different fuel trims and timing maps. The smaller turbo is to make it spool faster to feel like there's more power, the smaller injectors are because the turbo doesn't push as much air so not as much fuel is needed, the fuel trims are different to match the faster curve because it spools so quick.
You CAN brake torque with the stock torque converter although you'll only build a few psi. With my 1G, I could build about 5psi and it launched pretty good. I had the 14b with 450's and the MT ECU.

so it would be fine to get a MT ecu? or wont change anything or affect anything?

Originally posted by Talon93Awd
so it would be fine to get a MT ecu? or wont change anything or affect anything?

If you have a 14b and 450's, you SHOULD have a MT ECU.

ok well whats the difference between 390s and 450s so i can go check? 450s have a blue top? thats what ive read. what do the 390s look like. keep in mind im not taking the injectors out just plain looking at them lol

Originally posted by Talon93Awd
ok well whats the difference between 390s and 450s so i can go check?

EDIT: i went out and looked today haha. the person who had this car before me is stupid im guessing. theres 2 blue tops and 2 black tops??? thats alittle strange and stupid if those are 2 different injectors! im going to be buying some 550s and a walboro 255. im selling my 98 gs and ill have $1500 to spend :) im most likely sure you need a SAFC2 before i install these things? to make sure i dont dump to much fuel. i get shitty gas mileage right now as it is. i mean real shitty like 150-180miles to a tank?

If you're going to go with the 550's then yes you will need some sort of fuel tuning device such as a SAFC or you can use a GM MAF setup too and control it with the MAF-T.

lol It will run VERY shitty if you don't have anything to adjust those trims. I started my car up once with the evo injectors in there and it ran like straight ass lol.

Also you'll need to get a AFPR too, and might as well re-wire it while you're putting the pump in.

450's can be either blue or black. 390's are yellow I believe...