I have been having severe performance problems off and on for the past month or so. Lately the car has been stalling out for no reason, bogging down, or cutting out. I took the car out with DSMlink to read what was going on and to clear the CEL that was being thrown.

3 CELs
Front 02
Rear 02
Knock Sensor

I did as I always try to do, take out the knock. I gave the car a little more fuel and sure enough, all the knock went away.

Fast Forward: Next Day
Knock is back again. I could tell it was really bad when I would step on it, boost would build for about 500 rpms and the car would start shaking violently, obviously fuel cut.

Plug into DSMlink again. Now I have constant knock. At any rpm, under low throttle I have 3.2deg of knock. I absolutely cannot do anything to get rid of that knock. When boost builds (tries to build) knock screams to 12-13 deg of knock...timing gets retarded to -5deg. Ouch.

I talked with my father, mechanic, who has a couple ideas, but he is also fearful of the worst. Fellow 2gnt brothers, I fear crankwalk is upon me.

I have absolutely no money to fix the motor, I just bought a truck and am literally totally broke. I have a place I can store my car for the winter, but I think the car is down, and out, for this season.

*Cry*

wow, that really, REALLY sucks

how many miles are on your car?

and did you disconnect the battery after the fuel cut happened? becuase it will keep cutting until you reset it.

Originally posted by 420a-Tnthewerks
and did you disconnect the battery after the fuel cut happened? becuase it will keep cutting until you reset it.

What?

No man, lol Change your front o2 sensor. My car did the same thing. Yours is most likely bad, they cost like 50 bucks for a universal one from autozone. Trust me your car will feel so much better.

Yes ... two things. Replace the 02 sensor and I'd look into replacing the knock sensor as well. I don't know specifically what the dsm knock sensors do when they go bad. However, on my vr4 my knock sensor read 0 at idle and light revving. At over 5k, I saw 8-9 knock and it would never go away. I never drove the car like this (obviously because of all the havoc it wreaks on the timing curve).

Either way, it's something you should look into replacing.

Also, you don't have your fuel cut removed via DSMLink? You can do that you know.

Also try some seafoam maybe or something. Compression test also.

Just some ideas. It is NEVER the end. There is always something to do ... just a question of whether or not you want or can do it .

Originally posted by burntheblobs

Originally posted by 420a-Tnthewerks and did you disconnect the battery after the fuel cut happened? becuase it will keep cutting until you reset it.

What?

what do you mean what? it's true. the ecu will remember it happened and keep doing it at the same time it happened before.

Knocking really has nothing to do with crankwalk.

It's funny how everyone automatically assumes when their 2G has problems that it HAS GOT to be crankwalk.


Tune the car. Listen to the CEL's and fix the broken stuff.

Originally posted by Jeff_99gs
Knocking really has nothing to do with crankwalk. It's funny how everyone automatically assumes when their 2G has problems that it HAS GOT to be crankwalk. Tune the car. Listen to the CEL's and fix the broken stuff.

haha Thats what I was thinkin why does everyone think its crankwalk right away. Replace the o2 and dyno tune.

Originally posted by Jeff_99gs
Knocking really has nothing to do with crankwalk. It's funny how everyone automatically assumes when their 2G has problems that it HAS GOT to be crankwalk. Tune the car. Listen to the CEL's and fix the broken stuff.

I talked with my dad, who is a mechanic, as I stated above, and he said a symptom of a spun rod bearing, is knock. (This was before I told him about the notorious crankwalk problem.) He said if it was a spun rod then I would not be able to tune it out, which I can't, and that my timing would get severly retarded, which it is.

Don't worry, I'm not just pulling this out of my ass. I am also having very strange noises from the clutch housing, and also strange whining noises from the motor. All symptoms of crankwalk.

I will most likely replace the O2 and see if that is the problem first, speaking of, I need to go get the codes off the motor to see what specific code the O2 is throwing.

so take off the oil pan and check for crankwalk. *shrug*

Do crankwalk tests if you think it might be that. Left hand turns in a parking lot with the clutch down is a good prelim test.

Replace the sensors. A dead sensor can wreak absolute havoc on your car because the ECU sees none of the info it needs to see to let the car run correctly. Mine was breaking up gorribly for a day or so and it turned out one of my coil wires had come loose and I was running on three cylinders. Knock at every RPM and huge hesitation and stuttering.

And I assume you have verified base timing and everything is all ready and set up? The car idles and runs in vacuum fine?

Originally posted by HybriDSM
Do crankwalk tests if you think it might be that. Left hand turns in a parking lot with the clutch down is a good prelim test. Replace the sensors. A dead sensor can wreak absolute havoc on your car because the ECU sees none of the info it needs to see to let the car run correctly. Mine was breaking up gorribly for a day or so and it turned out one of my coil wires had come loose and I was running on three cylinders. Knock at every RPM and huge hesitation and stuttering. And I assume you have verified base timing and everything is all ready and set up? The car idles and runs in vacuum fine?

Yes, the car runs fine in vacuum. No problem all the way to 6500 w/o or minimal boost. Problems arise when boost kicks in quickly. The knock kicks in at ~2600 rpms and is constant at 3.2deg from there on.

I am planning on checking out the O2 sensors and the knock sensor this weekend if I can work a little on the side and pick up some extra cash this week. I am also going to check the spark plugs, gaps, wires, etc to see if I have any problems there.

Things were looking up today. I went out and ran the car again. I was still throwing a lot of knock, but all of a sudden the car started working fine again. For about 5 minutes I was able to drive just like normal. The car still threw knock over 5 degrees a few times, but the driving feel was no different than when the car was running good. A very good sign of not having crankwalk, because that would be a 24/7 problem, not an occassional problem.

sounds like a failing sensor to me. :-) im happy for you in case.

Replace your sensors....I am sure you were getting those codes for a reason. I can see if you fixed the senors and all this was still happening, but you haven't fixed it yet. Just park the car till you get the sensors and go from there. Don't worry yourslef to death until you fix what it is telling you to fix. Call Conceilli Mitsu...o2 sensors are about 100 a piece. I have a unviersal one for sale and already spliced together if you want to buy it from me. IM or PM me and i will explain all the detials behind it...lol.

lol

Thanks Jerrome, I have some other options first. When I had the car down at the local satan here I made some friends at the dealership with VR4's. One of them is the service dept manager. He has made an appointment for me first thing in the morning to get a diagnosis check done. He said they will pull the codes off the motor and check all possible problems, sensors, fuel, plugs, injectors, etc. They usually charge 1 hour labor for this, but he said he will let it slide this time. :) Hopefully they help me solve my problem.

You do not do your own work?

Originally posted by BigBald
You do not do your own work?

I do as much as I can. But right now I am stumped.

Originally posted by FlyinEsi

Originally posted by BigBald You do not do your own work?

I do as much as I can. But right now I am stumped.

LMAO...why are you stumped ? It clearly says to change the o2 sensors. CHANGE THEM !

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i am afraid hes got you there, break out the chiltons and take a wack at it.

Knock is tough to get to. Be prepped for some frustration in getting back there to that bastard.

O2 is easier, so let us know how it goes.

SHE'S ALIVE, SHE'S ALIVE!!

I took the car out tonight, first time since I got it back from mitsu. Car was totally running like ass, but I found out why.

When they got under the car they unplugged the ECU. In doing so it reset all of my fuel settings and set everything to +/- 0. Got everything adjusted after 6-7 runs and now the car is running much better, but still not up to where it was.

Unfortunately, the tranny is still fucked. I can feel it when I start, when I burp the gas, when i shift, and I can hear it all throughout 1st and 2nd gear. Suxor, but at least she is running. :)

Sorry about the freak-out guys, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was.

Originally posted by FlyinEsi
Unfortunately, the tranny is still fucked. I can feel it when I start, when I burp the gas, when i shift, and I can hear it all throughout 1st and 2nd gear. Suxor, but at least she is running. :) Sorry about the freak-out guys, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was.

i swear..our cars are the same...

Originally posted by All4thaN0okie

Originally posted by FlyinEsi Unfortunately, the tranny is still fucked. I can feel it when I start, when I burp the gas, when i shift, and I can hear it all throughout 1st and 2nd gear. Suxor, but at least she is running. :) Sorry about the freak-out guys, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was.

i swear..our cars are the same...

yeah dude, they are very close.

Man....you are a funny guy. I cannot believe what i just read.

Originally posted by Jeff_99gs
Knocking really has nothing to do with crankwalk. It's funny how everyone automatically assumes when their 2G has problems that it HAS GOT to be crankwalk. Tune the car. Listen to the CEL's and fix the broken stuff.

Originally posted by Jeff_99gs

Originally posted by Jeff_99gs Knocking really has nothing to do with crankwalk. It's funny how everyone automatically assumes when their 2G has problems that it HAS GOT to be crankwalk. Tune the car. Listen to the CEL's and fix the broken stuff.

1. I was told by a mechanic that a spun rod bearing would cause uncontrollable knock

2. The CELs had nothing to do with the sensors themselves. I would have wasted $160 buying new sensors if I had listened to 2gnt.

3. How the hell was I supposed to know there are 4 on-board computers to check the connections on.

4. Bite me :P