Vented the Apex'i for 5 months, now I'm paying the price.

As of today... brand new NGK spark plugs and 2 brand new o2 sensors. Still stalls like a total piece of crap. Idles kinda low (700-850-ish)

Any suggestions? Any ideas?

Brand New NGKs
2 brand new o2 sensors
re-circ'ed 2G stock BOV

Vacuum lines are good, air filter is clean...

Suggestions from the old guy are as follows...

Fuel Inj. cleaner
Fuel filter
PCV Valve
Plugs Wires ( i have 8.5mm mags!!!)
Ignition Coil
TPS
MAF
IAC

My BISS screw is kinda stripped out, maybe messing with the idle and having it around 1000 might help?

Thanks guys appreciate everything. Ditched the insurance job, now a mechanic at a local shop.

-Nick

Originally posted by NHH223
Why does my car hate me?

Because you vented you BOV like a ricer fool.

Originally posted by NHH223
What else can I do?

Sell it and buy a Civic that has one of the really cool, ulta high-tec BOV noise simulators. Then, throw a fart can and some 19's on it.

ok, seriously. :P
Idle around 750-800 is normal. What problems are you having exactly? Is it stalling? Are you sure you have no vaccuum/booost leaks? Do you have anything painted yellow? Stickers?
We need more details...

edit:
I just noticed this-->

Originally posted by NHH223Ditched the insurance job, now a mechanic at a local shop.

I hope you left the insurance job on good terms. :+

From the description of "stalls like a total piece of crap"...

Originally posted by NHH223
Suggestions from the old guy are as follows...
Fuel Inj. cleaner
Fuel filter
PCV Valve
Plugs Wires ( i have 8.5mm mags!!!)
Ignition Coil
TPS
MAF
IAC

that sounds about right.

Originally posted by 420a-Tnthewerks
From the description of "stalls like a total piece of crap"...

Originally posted by NHH223 Suggestions from the old guy are as follows... Fuel Inj. cleaner Fuel filter PCV Valve Plugs Wires ( i have 8.5mm mags!!!) Ignition Coil TPS MAF IAC

that sounds about right.

yes but you could narrow most of those down with other symptoms.
When does it stall? Does it drive normally and stall when it drops back to an idle? Does it accelerate ok? More info please.

Originally posted by eclipzGST

Originally posted by 420a-Tnthewerks From the description of "stalls like a total piece of crap"...

Originally posted by NHH223 Suggestions from the old guy are as follows... Fuel Inj. cleaner Fuel filter PCV Valve Plugs Wires ( i have 8.5mm mags!!!) Ignition Coil TPS MAF IAC

that sounds about right.

yes but you could narrow most of those down with other symptoms. When does it stall? Does it drive normally and stall when it drops back to an idle? Does it accelerate ok? More info please.

I was getting at the point that he needed to give more info.

Stalls when shifting over 3k or high boost pressure. Going onto highway and shifting at 5k is a guaranteed STALL!!!

Sometimes I have to "make" an idle for my car to recognize on first start-up. So, starting cold, I have to hold car at about 1000rpms, then it will catch idle if I take foot off gas pedal, then usually drops to around 7-800rpms. Idling for a long time, aka going into gas station and buying a pack of smokes, will usually result in stalling out my car.

I think it is idle issues, my BISS screw is stripped out completely, I tightened my throttle cable which prevents stalls, but also makes car idle ANYWHERE from 900-2000 rpms. I can shift fine, shift at high boost, and first start-up is ok. When cold, idles at 1000 or so, usually bumps to 1500 or more after driving for a bit.

Considering professionally fuel injector cleaner, new PCV valve, maybe new ignition coil? Buyin a new/another stock 2G throttle body or doing the 1G swap, with a WORKING BISS screw. Any more ideas? Is that enough info?

In response to venting like a ricer, yes I did, HKS SSQ and MAF-T, GM MAF and Dejon Tool "blow-thru" set-up is on its way next month.

My insurance job never started. Too stupid and poor to pass the state exam, failed twice, $120 out of pocket. Was offered job as mechanic when I went to get car inspected, took the job. I have access to lifts, pro fuel inj cleaner, OBD-II reader, and unlimited tools for any jobs, esp. a torch for those damn rusted exhaust bolts. Any more ideas? Thanks guys, need to post more, but job is 48hrs/wk with a 3-day weekend though.

-Nick

Well you can't just adjust the BISS without doing it with a scan tool.

Read this if you haven't:

http://vfaq.com/index-main.html go to "Intake", down to "Throttlebody", then look at "Idle speed adjustment/ 2G T" link.

Sweet. Well we did a diagnostics test on my car. Basically emissions testing without paying the fee.

I'm at 2.56 on HC, legal is 1.20
the rest is good... still rich as a bitch... now what?

I would replace the TB so you can at least have a working BISS screw try to get one with a good ISC so you can have that replaced also. I had to do this on my car. I don't think it's the MAF as I'm sure the would trigger a CEL, also I'm not surpised the crappy idle has not triggered a CEL.

Stock idle is 750 +/- 50 or 100 (can't remember)

Yes, replacing the TB is next on my list, along with a clutch slave cylinder, PCV valve, fuel inj. cleaner, and fuel filter. Will also do K&N filter cleaner.

So, changing to a 1G 4g63T tb will get me more ponies, correct? Is the TB elbow the same size, or? And what am I looking at for a price? Just need price, have job, have LOTS of money, really don't care. Would like 4 tbs for each cylinder like Skylines have 6 for their engines, but don't see that happening too soon, LOL.

Thanks guys so much. As of now, haven't scanned my car for CELs or hidden codes or anything, and the CEL is not on, so will check with scan tool monday after work.

Also... opinions on the Dejon Tool Blow-thru piping set-up, and does anyone else make a better set-up? Dejon says to cut some bracket for some part, which doesn't make me happy. If it's not direct bolt on, then it's not a "bolt-on" mod!

-Nick

The 2G TB elbow is much larger than the 1G. A MAS problem wont necessarily throw a code. Emission related problems are the first problems to throw codes. If you're running dirty rich, there must be a reason. Use the scan tool rather than just replacing random parts. There's technicians, then there's parts changers. First you really need to know the proper voltages of all the sensors at different temps, loads. It could be something as simple as a faulty coolant temp sensor, but if you dont know what the voltage should be, you'll never notice it. I recommend whipping out the Mitsu service book and write down all the voltages that you should see on properly functioning sensors. From there its merely hunting out the issue. Dont forget, simple things like a dirty airfilter, restricted intake after the MAS, possible coil pack (goes along with finding the right voltages) and boost leaks will cause rich conditions. Though, a boost leak will cause a lean condition under no boost cruising and a rich condition under boosted driving. Its best to start checking the basics, the things easily forgotten in search of a more complicated answer, then work your way down. Good luck.

So she doesn't hate me that bad. I tightened the SHIT outta my throttle cable, and drove my car with a bouncy idle for 2 weeks.

Well,I put the cable where it should be, tweaked some other things (brake cleaner on the PCV valve, MAF screw backed out, lower honey comb out) and now my car idles at 1k, does not stall, and seems pretty good. Maybe an emissions re-test soon? Shit, it'll be free. What do you think?

I'm just curious. How did you tune your SAFC (via wideband or take it to a dyno)??

If you do need another TB, I have a 2g that I could certainly sell.

What S-AFC? I don't have one! I wish I did... LOL

Then how are you adjusting your A/F ratio (DSMlink, Megasquirt........Hondata!?!?!?)???????