Well when i get on it about 3/4 the way or all the way it seems like it's missing or like the feeling my tires are slipping in a way. it's felt like this before and then at it's worst point it wouldn't idle right and didn't drive right and all it was were plugs and wires. so what else could be causing this. i sort of have a feeling it's the plugs or wires again but what would be making them go bad so fast?

I dunno but i'm having the same problem--do a boost leak test first, then check the plug wires for water damage---there's a great post on there somewhere about thsi...unfotunately i just got off work and am exhausted, but do a search on this particular forum--if no dice i'll look tomorrow

The post is an FAQ from MSD--just checked the website though, couldn't find it

The hesitiation could be a bad TPS sensor that is making the car hit fuel cut in partial throttle pulls. How old is the car and have any of the sensors around the throttle body been replaced?

I had a similar issue, although I'm not sute the same one due to your differeing description, and it was a bad TPS sensor, and then my ISC motor died too. Time kills electronics.

#1...whats an ISC motor?

#2...I really wanna find that link---if your first plugs/wires went out b/c of water in the spark plug wells it is -POSSIBLE- that the water got right back in there and killed the second set---since they're new you may be able to bitch and return them, depending.


just something to keep in mind---

if it is the TPS that's easy to check too (and free)

could it also be the Cam angle sensor?

An ISC is an Idle Speed Control sensor, as for what is does exactly i forget? but anyway the car is a 97 with 57k miles. I'll take it to a mechanic to see about the water in the plugs and if that's not it i'll try the test on on the TPS.

a mechanic prob won't be able to see it any better than you on the wires, damn I really wish I could find this link about how to tell---basically it looks like a small white pinhole in the plug wire boot--the part that attaches to the plug...this is an indication of moisture (often not visible to the human eye) that is causing arc-ing

Originally posted by Vandy420a
a mechanic prob won't be able to see it any better than you on the wires, damn I really wish I could find this link about how to tell---basically it looks like a small white pinhole in the plug wire boot--the part that attaches to the plug...this is an indication of moisture (often not visible to the human eye) that is causing arc-ing

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/techbulletins/tech_mrbishi1.htm ;)

Originally posted by eclipzGST

Originally posted by Vandy420a a mechanic prob won't be able to see it any better than you on the wires, damn I really wish I could find this link about how to tell---basically it looks like a small white pinhole in the plug wire boot--the part that attaches to the plug...this is an indication of moisture (often not visible to the human eye) that is causing arc-ing

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/techbulletins/tech_mrbishi1.htm ;)

Damn, I was just going to post this too!



Reverse El-Glo HVAC Panels Update: Specs received
Expected Release Date: May 14th

you can pull the plug and look at it if you have a chilton or haynes manual look in the back and they have pics of plugs with with different problems.

my car is doing this. at full throttle around 4500rpms the car sounds like its missing and back fires and looses alot of power. it started doing this 2 days ago. im thinking maybe it was a bad tank of gas? what are symptoms of the knock sensor retarding the timing?

im going to change the plugs. the wires i got are bwd automotive 7mm wire, and i hadnt been having problems with them before.

CK, I was having the same problems, 4500 RPMs I was having some major hesitation problems...I turned the boost down about 5psi and it reduced the problem to almost nill...but then I changed the plugs and wires and dont' have the problem any more. If you read the article posted above, it is a chronic problem with the 4g63 head.



Reverse El-Glo HVAC Panels Update: Specs received
Expected Release Date: May 14th

yeah thats my problem to a T. my oil cap just wont stop leaking. what did you do to fix the problem? i took off the spark plug cover and it seemed to fix the problem for now


hmmm would it be bad if i ran 1 magnecor wire and 3 other of a different brand? it shouldnt make a difference right?

Originally posted by chrysler kid
my oil cap just wont stop leaking.

new gasket is only a couple bucks from the dealer. Leave the old one on too for some extra sealing power! :P

Originally posted by chrysler kid
hmmm would it be bad if i ran 1 magnecor wire and 3 other of a different brand? it shouldnt make a difference right?

I wouldn't. Just go get a set of auto part store cheapo's for now.
The resistance won't be the same if you mix different brands and even though it may not be "that big of a deal", for $30, why risk it...

i bought a new oil cap and it still leaks a bit. is there a gaskett that is supposto go between the rubber one on the cap or somthin?

you might wanna make sure there are no cracks in your valve cover. i had oil coming from what looked to be the oil cap and replaced it and it kept leaking so i checked for cracks and it was really hard to see but it was near the cap under the spark plug cover.