This blows. My damn t-belt snapped on the way to work this morning. I'm a whopping 3k over my service limit. I just got my tensioner in last week. I even had a paid vacation I was gonna burn so I could do this in three weeks. I want to burn the car to the ground.

Fuck me.

You can do it in three weeks.

i think he means he was going to do it three weeks from now...

anyways man, that sucks. that happened to me a few years ago, 3 days after i bought my eclipse

wow I guess you can never tell when it will really break. I put about 20k more on my car after the timing belt was due. Even when I did do it it looked like it would of went another 20k. That sux. Hope for the best, prepare for the worst.

I'm already planning for the worst. I have another head sitting at the house right now. Rain prevented me from pulling the cams to check compression yesterday. Hopefully the cams will be out tonight so I can compression test tomorrow.

Originally posted by freelancefool
I'm already planning for the worst. I have another head sitting at the house right now. Rain prevented me from pulling the cams to check compression yesterday. Hopefully the cams will be out tonight so I can compression test tomorrow.

Why do you need the cams out for a compression test?

Originally posted by GSGoinFast

Originally posted by freelancefool I'm already planning for the worst. I have another head sitting at the house right now. Rain prevented me from pulling the cams to check compression yesterday. Hopefully the cams will be out tonight so I can compression test tomorrow.

Why do you need the cams out for a compression test?

Yea, you just need the plugs and the relays out.

I did my timing belt at 67K. Still looked to be in decent shape too.

Originally posted by GSGoinFast
Why do you need the cams out for a compression test?

Sure would make it easier to see if the valves are sealing, now, wouldn't it?

Thanks for the help on the motor mount Dino. I went and did what you suggested. Took me about five minutes to have it out.

Taking the cams out was the suggested method by a friend of mine. The valves should all seat with the cams out. This way if I bent anything, I don't need to pull the timing belt back off the car to remove the head.

I got a compression test done tonight. 0-160-80-0. Pulled the head expecting the worst only to find no bent valves. I have no marring on the cylinders. Just lots of carbon buildup on the back of the valves. The head gasket has some nice carbon staining on it too from where it was leaking. I'm really not sure how I lucked out like this. Someone must like me.

If the belt is broken and you leave the cams in whiel you compression test, any valve not bent will become bent because the damn cams arent spinning with the crank. Kinda basic.

Sucks to hear.

You just cant win

Terry

Originally posted by freelancefool
I got a compression test done tonight. 0-160-80-0. Pulled the head expecting the worst only to find no bent valves. I have no marring on the cylinders. Just lots of carbon buildup on the back of the valves. The head gasket has some nice carbon staining on it too from where it was leaking. I'm really not sure how I lucked out like this. Someone must like me.

That's what happened to me. Sucky compression but when I pulled it, no bent valves.

I wish you luck with it.

Damn, that sucks dood. ;( :wary Sounds like it might be time to get the other head cleaned up and into action so you can get back to driving her and get that head looked at when you get time. Oh, once again, offer still stands if you need a hand with anything. :thumbsup Good luck bro!

So let me get this straight I am in the same boat, 700miles after a new rebuild! So what you do is take out your cams and crank it over with no timing belt to see if you have compression? So what else can it be if you have no bent valves but still bad compression? Bc I want to make sure that I have bent valves before I pull the head.

Originally posted by Ajax
So let me get this straight I am in the same boat, 700miles after a new rebuild! So what you do is take out your cams and crank it over with no timing belt to see if you have compression? So what else can it be if you have no bent valves but still bad compression? Bc I want to make sure that I have bent valves before I pull the head.

Yea. I took the cams out and spun the motor over to check the compression. That way I didn't have to install the new t-belt before compression checking the motor. It seemed the best way to go about it.

I wish mine would break so i would have an excuse to rebuild and turbo it.

Well I dropped the head off at a machine shop on Monday. The dude spent about 30 seconds looking at it and showed me where 4 valves made contact with the pistons. It wasn't much, but it was there.

I just got a call about an hour ago from the machine shop. 10 of 16 valves are either bent or should be replaced. $300 estimate for head job, $100 for the head gasket set, $167 for tensioner, $135 for t-belt and bearings, and I still need to replace a couple of motor mounts. This got expensive fast.

Originally posted by freelancefool
Well I dropped the head off at a machine shop on Monday. The dude spent about 30 seconds looking at it and showed me where 4 valves made contact with the pistons. It wasn't much, but it was there. I just got a call about an hour ago from the machine shop. 10 of 16 valves are either bent or should be replaced. $300 estimate for head job, $100 for the head gasket set, $167 for tensioner, $135 for t-belt and bearings, and I still need to replace a couple of motor mounts. This got expensive fast.

Man, you got jipped.

I spent 30 something dollars on my MLS Felpro gasket. I think the OEM is like 70 or so.

100 for an OEM tensioner.

The head gasket set is the head gasket, intake gasket, exhaust gasket, thermostat housing gasket, valve cover gasket, etc.

Yeah, when people say "bent" valves, most of the time they thing they will look all askew and bent out of shape, when really most of the time, you cant even really tell that much by eye. All it takes is a slight bend in the valve to not make full contact with the valve seat, and you wont have any compression..

Well she's back up and running. I just need to find a replacement bolt for the idler tensioner pulley. My stupidity led me to rounding the head off the bolt. Nobody here in town carries a 8x1.5 left hand threaded bolt in town. So for now I have no A/C and no power steering. I'll deal with it for now. Just need new motor mounts and a new tie rod end and the car will be 100%. Should have that taken care of by next weekend.

This site is awesome and had all the info that I needed to attempt a project like this. Thanks guys.