Figured I would post an update for those of you following

Final Primer.....





Stripped the suspension off so we could flip the car over and paint the bottom. Rear end weighed a ton. I had one of the guys help me carry it and even with two people we about died.



Powdercoating came back, I even had another 2GNT VC coated.







Stripping and painting every bolt





Detail?





Its a slow movement but its slowly getting there. Rebuilding the rear end has slowed things down and the car on the rotisseri (to paint the bottom) has slowed due to an injury of one of the guys at the body shop.

Sure Grip LSD:




The LSD should be back together by friday. Waiting on Bolts from ARP to put the LSD case halves together. One of the factory bolt was stretched.

When I put the suspension back in the car I am planning on assembling everything at home and putting it on the car in 4 large pieces. Only problem is I will need to find someone to take with me to move all the shit and get it positioned under the car.

I cannot wait to see this finished!

Looks great Terry, definitely gonna be great, and the attention to detail will show!

Nice pseudo-resto.
Yikes about painting bolts and random parts though, not sure that is a good savings of money. Painting the wheel cylinders seems pointless if you aren't going to rebuild/replace the rest of the drummies.

Definitely not a frame-off style resto though.
Look forward to seeing it finished.

Its considered a frame off on a Uni-body. The only more True way of doing a frame off is cutting all the welds on the uni-body and taking the shell apart. That i wont do. Right now its sitting on a rotisseri on its side getting the bottom blasted and painted.

A frame on resto is typically when you leave the suspension/subframes on during the work. We arent doing that. You only see the top primer in the pictures. That was prior to disassembly.

We chose to leave the suspension on the car during the sheetmetal panel replacement. Obviously putting it into final primer was done to keep it from any corrosion and it was convenient to do the top before the car was flipped over.

The drivetrain is getting rebuilt your assuming things Chris based on pictures your not seeing, if i posted all of them, your internet might slow to a crawl. The hardware needs to be cleaned, blasted and painted. Not doing so will just result it new equipment with old rusty hardware. Why dont I just replace the hardware? Because this is all OEM hardware and 90% is not available. I refuse to put hardware on the chassis that isnt OEM if I am not forced to. The rear end i am rebuilding now and should be back together tomorrow. Front drum assy are getting upgraded to Wilwood assy's.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Because this is all OEM hardware and 90% is not available. I refuse to put hardware on the chassis that isnt OEM if I am not forced to. The rear end i am rebuilding now and should be back together tomorrow. Front drum assy are getting upgraded to Wilwood assy's.

N/m.
Any restoration of old steel and pre-modern cars is a good thing!


Wilwoods are a good choice.

Again, look forward to seeing the project completed.

i dont know where you see offense.

Mopar parts are much harder to come by than ford or Chevy. Not many companies reproduce the parts. Brake parts are easy to replace but why should I replace a wheel cylinder 1 year old when i can just replace the seals and hone it out?

If finding hardware is easy......then locate an OEM bolt for the LSD carrier. One of mine is stretched and as far as I can search in the mopar community, I cannot buy a NOS bolt. I either buy a used bolt some may have laying around or buy ARP replacements.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
i dont know where you see offense. Mopar parts are much harder to come by than ford or Chevy. Not many companies reproduce the parts. Brake parts are easy to replace but why should I replace a wheel cylinder 1 year old when i can just replace the seals and hone it out? If finding hardware is easy......then locate an OEM bolt for the LSD carrier. One of mine is stretched and as far as I can search in the mopar community, I cannot buy a NOS bolt. I either buy a used bolt some may have laying around or buy ARP replacements.

You're right. I retract my statements. I do not know Mopar as deep as you do. Let's keep this thread on track and I look forward to seeing the finished project!

No seriously....if your good hunting the net.....find me that bolt. I am willing to pay 30.00 for 1 bolt but it must be OEM.

I cant even find the factory Ball joint bolts that hold the BJ to the spindle. The last bolts I could find were the radiator factory hardware and they were 9.00 each.

I need:

1 Balljoint to spindle nut and bolt
the bolts for the column to firewall (2)
Rear shock stud nuts (can find the studs but no nuts)
Any parts for the factory front sway bar (only aftermarket avail cant even find the OEM brackets)

Finding mopar shit is rediculous now I know why mopars sell for so much damn money. 1 manufactur just now started reproducing the plastic for the dash......and since they are the only one doing it, the plastic is 800.00

No one makes the internals for the doors......NONE of it. Its a fucking Joke.

Edit: find me the rear window (pop out style) weatherstripping.....noone apparently makes that either.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
No seriously....if your good hunting the net.....find me that bolt. I am willing to pay 30.00 for 1 bolt but it must be OEM. I cant even find the factory Ball joint bolts that hold the BJ to the spindle. The last bolts I could find were the radiator factory hardware and they were 9.00 each. I need: 1 Balljoint to spindle nut and bolt the bolts for the column to firewall (2) Rear shock stud nuts (can find the studs but no nuts) Any parts for the factory front sway bar (only aftermarket avail cant even find the OEM brackets) Finding mopar shit is rediculous now I know why mopars sell for so much damn money. 1 manufactur just now started reproducing the plastic for the dash......and since they are the only one doing it, the plastic is 800.00 No one makes the internals for the doors......NONE of it. Its a fucking Joke. Edit: find me the rear window (pop out style) weatherstripping.....noone apparently makes that either.

Looks great Terry props on using mopar oem parts I thought you would use the Hotchkis rearend.

Would this be for anyone, if so I'll do some hunting for you and send you the links. keep your money though

Your mopar a 68-69 or its a half year

It's coming along Terry, looks good.

One of my dad's buddies is an old Mopar junkie...I'll talk to him and see if he might have any leads on some of that stuff you're looking for.

Good to see your keeping yourself busy lol. More updates please.

I have the early 69 hardtop model.

Hell yeah Terry!

Very cool shit, Terry. Call it what you want, that's a ground up restro to me.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
No seriously....if your good hunting the net.....find me that bolt. I am willing to pay 30.00 for 1 bolt but it must be OEM.

Lol, here's where we parts ways. I would NEVER have the patience for that kind of stress. Home Depot or NAPA, here I come.

That's some labor of love. Looks great so far.

Looking good Terry! I wish I had the time and money to do a Mopar, there's a decent looking 70-73 (I think) Challenger sitting with a FS sign near my In-laws place.

I really gotta get the 2g and the Porsche done first though

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Very cool shit, Terry. Call it what you want, that's a ground up restro to me.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon No seriously....if your good hunting the net.....find me that bolt. I am willing to pay 30.00 for 1 bolt but it must be OEM.

Lol, here's where we parts ways. I would NEVER have the patience for that kind of stress. Home Depot or NAPA, here I come. That's some labor of love. Looks great so far.

I can appreciate that mark. Its getting dangerously close to become a Modified Resto. It is so very hard to keep OEM dated parts if you want to do anything other than drive around town. Most of the Fine detail parts cannot be purchased and others are outrageously priced. Just 4 pieces being chromed are costing me 1600.00 and I am half temped to just say fuck it, its prostreet time.

The Wildwood prostreet Brakes are going to be a problem. With the way my setup from the factory is, I am going ot have to cut and modify the hardlines, then change to a modern day Master. There goes appearing to be factory. I might as well build the bottom end for a blower and Say "here I come"

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon

Originally posted by bullettdsm Very cool shit, Terry. Call it what you want, that's a ground up restro to me.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon No seriously....if your good hunting the net.....find me that bolt. I am willing to pay 30.00 for 1 bolt but it must be OEM.

Lol, here's where we parts ways. I would NEVER have the patience for that kind of stress. Home Depot or NAPA, here I come. That's some labor of love. Looks great so far.

I can appreciate that mark. Its getting dangerously close to become a Modified Resto. It is so very hard to keep OEM dated parts if you want to do anything other than drive around town. Most of the Fine detail parts cannot be purchased and others are outrageously priced. Just 4 pieces being chromed are costing me 1600.00 and I am half temped to just say fuck it, its prostreet time. The Wildwood prostreet Brakes are going to be a problem. With the way my setup from the factory is, I am going ot have to cut and modify the hardlines, then change to a modern day Master. There goes appearing to be factory. I might as well build the bottom end for a blower and Say "here I come"

Detroit Muscle

Originally posted by dalesmitsu

Detroit Muscle



:P

Nice work Terry :thumbsup

my cousin had one like this but it was rag top same color.

Had to do it on the rack, rotisseri is tied up with a 55 t-bird that has more issues that a one legged coal miner.





Earlier we cut upen the fllor boards to look into the frame rails and surprisingly there is little to no rust on them at all. I guess the 30 year old galvanizing that Marks boys did worked well.

Damn that is clean. You'd never see that up here,
lol.

Did they use good ole rustoleum in the rails. Awesome, thats looks as if it rolled of the assembly line.

Are you gonna undercoat it, if so what stuff would you recommend.

More picts of the rear end getting finished up this morning


Setting the backlash


Factory 383 never bored in 30 some odd years


Factory mopar forged crank and rods


All new brake hardware


And a nice dolly for days you just dont want to carry around a 300lb 8 3/4!


Stock port (gasket matched) 915 heads



MAX WEDGE 906 heads

60's Mopars were dipped in a galvanizing bath prior to paint.

Its going to have an epoxy based paint on the bottom.....not factory but longevity is a little more important now.

Wow Terry, those max wedge heads look like they'll flow a TON more than the stockers.

Incredible. The B is looking stellar, Terry. Thanks for keeping us in the loop on this one. (Would be neat if you could bring it to Norwalk and get it on the rollers at Buschur's for kicks. I bet it sounds a million times better than all those Ebos.)