Ok, well i hate to ask, and i hate to work on it even more, but i am cheap and refuse to take it somewhere.

Car is a 92 accord, f22a engine, auto tranny. 137,xxx Mi

Here is what it does:
Try to start it, and the light around D4 will flash. Cranks fine, no start. eventually it will start. (3-5 mins of this)

Next you get to driving. It wont go! you push the gas and it creeps along like an old lady. then all of a sudden, (its been floored for 2-5 secs at this point) VROOOM off she goes faster than my eclpise. (sad i know)

Other times, it starts fine, but wont go over 40. no matter how hard you push the gas.

She drove it home from her moms an hour away on the interstate doing 40 like this. damn car ate 3-4 gallons of gas in 70 miles, and then she came home and broke my m&m machine into peices on the wall cause she was pissed at her car.

SO i need help please!!

Bad plugs and/or wires? I'd check those first.

clean your throtte body, test the Air intake sensor and the MAF.

Originally posted by DSMRoadster
clean your throtte body, test the Air intake sensor and the MAF.

no MAF it's an old honduh, they use MAP sensors. start with the basics, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter. probably one of the before mentioned if not a combi of all

Originally posted by red96rs
then she came home and broke my m&m machine into peices on the wall

Tell her to fix her own fucking car.

Originally posted by slowmitsu

Originally posted by red96rs then she came home and broke my m&m machine into peices on the wall

Tell her to fix her own fucking car.

Word, forget that whore.

check the plugs and see if you have a dead cylinder...look for one or two or all fowled out... hondas use a distributor with the coil right inside it and if a basic tune up doesn't remedy the prob you might be lookin at a bad coil, wich is the weakest link in any honda. It's kinda typical for them to go any way so that might be a place to start lookin. You can check the coil with a multitester that will give you a resistance measurement, just checkin continuity isn't enough with these things, I had a 97 accord that would blow them constantly, and when it sucked up water and got an H22A dropped in the prob got even worse. You could also be lookin at some cracked O-rings around the injectors, another place to look...

wow lots of good ideas guys. the plugs and wires i know are fine i changed them when i did her valve cover a month back. ill check the rest of that stuff in the morning when i wake up. Thanks for the quick responses, and keep them coming.

She broke your m&m machine?


Light her car on fire and breakdance on the hood while laughing in your most evil laugh.


When my gf's jetta broke (she's my ex now) multiple times, she cried and cried and cried. I told her "that's what you get for buying this german peice of crap" and then she cried some more.

Originally posted by red96rs
and then she came home and broke my m&m machine into peices on the wall cause she was pissed at her car.

She sounds like a BITCH. Do yourself a favor and drop her, imagine how she's going to react to more important things or arguments if you got married.

Thats what my little brother's civic did when he overheated the SHIT out of it. Just a thought. Could be internally really messed up. But like everyone else said, make sure you check the basics first like plugs and wires.

Broke ur M&M machine, I'de fuck it up even more and send her to the stealership :shrug

Update:

i checked all the shit yall said to look for. it all came back with no problems. im looking at this as a sensor issue of some kind now, but ODB I seems to not give a shit about anything, so it wont through the code. its starting to piss me off no matter how hard i try the fucking light wont come on.
I wish i could afford to take it somewhere... but fuck... if i could afford that my friggin eclipse would be pulling 11's right now not pulling a bullshit... (whatever a stock RS runs in the 1/4)
Well, i guess if anyone has another idea for me to try ill give it a shot... but i hope this isnt going to end up with her getting a new vehicle, and my eclipse not getting the mods it is beggin for.

P.S., i would get rid of the bitch, but she isnt ALWAYS like this. she's Bi-polar and this was the worst thing thats happened in over a year... so its not to bad. normally everything is great.

Originally posted by red96rs
P.S., i would get rid of the bitch, but she isnt ALWAYS like this. she's Bi-polar and this was the worst thing thats happened in over a year... so its not to bad. normally everything is great.

You just said she's BI-POLAR.... stop being a retard and drop her.

There are reasons behind me not droping her. I'll explain.
I knew when i got into it she had a kid. i didnt know she was bi polar.
I met the kid a few months b4 i found out. (she didnt have any weird issues for a while i guess) and now her kid kinda looks up to me like a dad i guess.
i really am sticking with her more for the sake of the kid then for her. the kids dad already left her, and im trying to be a good guy and not let it happen again if you know what i mean.

Thats either really noble or really stupid bro, either way more power to you, I dont know if i could pull that off. Didnt some one else have a bipolar girl on the forum, and it ended up REALLY ugly?

Anywho, get her vehicle fixed (if you already didnt, and sorry for getting in your business) :thumbsup

1) Has a kid
2) BiPolar
_____________
RUN

Think of yourself for once. It's sad about the kid, but do you want to be with someone "just for the kid" your whole life. When the kid turns 18, you're still stuck with her and possibly missed out with being someone that is normal that you love.

Originally posted by red96rs
...auto tranny...
...light around D4 will flash...
...It wont go! you push the gas and it creeps along like an old lady. then all of a sudden, (its been floored for 2-5 secs at this point) VROOOM off she goes...
...Other times, it starts fine, but wont go over 40. no matter how hard you push the gas...

I'd have the TCU checked for codes. Also sounds like the end clutch is going or gone.
I think most likely all the issues are tranny related.
Also, does the tranny even shift? You said it won't go over 40. If the tranny is in limp mode it will only stay in Drive. 1,2 and OD won't engage.

you said that when you floor it the car doesn't go anywhere then after a lil bit just takes off. be a lil more specific, does the motor just bog out then finally up and go? or does it rev to hell like its trying to go and just 't move? Also here's a real simple test my dad showed me when I was a kid to find a poorly running cylinder, kinda crude but it can stop you from chasing after loose ends. Start the car and let it idle for a bit and warm up to full temp, take a small squirt bottle and set it to mist and very gently spray each runner of the exhaust manifold about an inch or so from the head. If there is a cylinder that is running poorly you should be able to tell by how the water sizles off of the mani if it even does at all, as a bad cylinder doesnt burn properly and wont heat the runner up as hot. also works the other way, if one is hotter than the rest then it might be lean...see where I'm going with this? Its not exactly an EGT or a handheld lazer thermometer but my dad was a diesel mechanic for years and it saved his ass a few times when he was stumped. You might be able to single out one cylinder at least and then you can start going more in deapth with that one instead of guessing.

Originally posted by quicksilver99
you said that when you floor it the car doesn't go anywhere then after a lil bit just takes off. be a lil more specific, does the motor just bog out then finally up and go? or does it rev to hell like its trying to go and just 't move? Also here's a real simple test my dad showed me when I was a kid to find a poorly running cylinder, kinda crude but it can stop you from chasing after loose ends. Start the car and let it idle for a bit and warm up to full temp, take a small squirt bottle and set it to mist and very gently spray each runner of the exhaust manifold about an inch or so from the head. If there is a cylinder that is running poorly you should be able to tell by how the water sizles off of the mani if it even does at all, as a bad cylinder doesnt burn properly and wont heat the runner up as hot. also works the other way, if one is hotter than the rest then it might be lean...see where I'm going with this? Its not exactly an EGT or a handheld lazer thermometer but my dad was a diesel mechanic for years and it saved his ass a few times when he was stumped. You might be able to single out one cylinder at least and then you can start going more in deapth with that one instead of guessing.

Or you could just pull the plugs and inspect them. :shrug

just search www.honda-tech.com for all things honda.

Ok, when you floor it, well shit... let me think... you get the peddle to about 50% and you can hear this "pop" noise.. i'm figuring its backfiring. the you wait a few seconds after its at 100% throttle and it goes. it feels more like a bogging down. it has a tach and the needle isnt redlining when it happens.

To me it feels almost like the POS stays in D4, and the downshifts all of a sudden to 1st and shoots off like a goddamn rocket ship.