So yea, The mustang I was looking at was too expensive so how does this car look? Any input on things to look for? I only know 2gnt's pretty much so any info is great. Obviously I'd have to test drive it but are there any key things that I need to look for while I'm driving? Thanks!

"I am going to be selling my car and wanted to see if there was any interest here before I try local and autotrader. Here it goes:

I bought my 1990 GSX in 2000 in Italy from an F16 pilot. Was completely stock with toddler booster seat in the back. I am the second owner and she has been well taken cared of by the previous owner and myself. Oil religiously changed at 3 months or 3k (Mobile One Syn all her life). I know the hype about our cars breaking down all the time but this car has been nothing but reliable. She has only seen the 1/4 mile track once a few years ago. Heres the current stats:

132,000 (I bought it in 2000 with 99,000 miles
You guys know what a GSX comes with, ie A/C, power windows/locks.
Also has the OEM sunroof w/accessories
5-speed transmission
Factory Alarm

ENGINE BAY:
FMIC w/T-Bolt clamps and 2.5" hard piping
Chrome powdercoated valve cover w/stainless steel hardware
Ported EVO III Big 16g
Ported 2g mani w/stainless steel studs (no erosion worries)
Ported 2g O2 housing
2g MAF
NGK BPR7ES
DSR 550 injectors
Rewired Walbro 190
Greddy oil catch can
SBR manual boost controller
OEM clutch master & slave cylinders @125,000
OEM Brake master cylinder @127,000
EGR block-off plate (No CEL)
3" Hahnracecraft downpipe
3" Random Tech High-flow cat
3" ATR Pitbull cat-back
Symborski shift kit
Prothane motor mount kit
-The following was replaced with OEM parts from Buschur @110,000:
Timing belt
Water pump
Balance shaft belt
Tensioner w/pulley
Fuel filter
NGK Plug wires
-The following was replaced @131,000
OEM Alternator
OEM Non-Cruise Cable
OEM Clutch w/disk
OEM resurfaced flywheel
OEM Throw-out bearing
OEM Shift fork
OEM fulcrum ball (shimmed)
BG Syncroshift II in Trans
Redline Heavy Shockproof in Transfer case and rear end

EXTERIOR:
16" Alessio Rims (Purchased in Italy)
225/50 R16 Sumitomos (90% tread left)
Front turn/parking light black out kit
Gorilla lock lugs

SUSPENSION:
KYB AGX Adjustable at all 4 corners
Front/rear upper strut tower braces

INTERIOR
Sony Xplode CD player w/remote
All 6 speakers are upgraded w/either Kenwood or Pioneer
Autometer Guages (Phantom series)
-Boost
-Air/Fuel
-EGT
Dual A-Pillar guage pod
Center dash triple guage pod w/2 empty slots
APEXI SAFC
Pocketlogger software w/cable and serial number
HKS turbo timer

EXTRAS W/CAR
OEM hood
1 set of fresh BPR7ES
OEM 1G O2 Sensor (new)
OEM 1g Knock Sensor (new)
OEM BOV
OEM Cruise control box (original from car)
5 OEM wheels w/tires (Toyo Proxes)
OEM Spare tire w/jack
OEM used valve cover
OEM front windshield washer reservior (removed due to FMIC piping)
Set of suspension technique lowering springs
And more odds and ends, depending on buyers needs.

Also, I have an SBR 3500 Clutch w/disk. Only has 300 miles on it. I had it on the car before but the flywheel that was donated to me was bad. I didn't figure this out until I resurfaced mines and re-installed it w/a OEM clutch. So I kept the 3500 as back up. I am willing to sell seperate or w/the car.

$4,500.00 obo. Also considering trades, looking for a 4door Honda Civic or equivilant in other vehicle manufacturers."

wow, clean.

1gs are not known for crankwalk etc. Just look for the normal problems while driving and for signs of leaks and wear etc.

Im sure the 4g section guys well chime in.

Originally posted by Chamuko
wow, clean. 1gs are not known for crankwalk etc. Just look for the normal problems while driving and for signs of leaks and wear etc. Im sure the 4g section guys well chime in.

Thanks.

Also, If anyone wants to chime in on the price (as in your opinion on what to offer or what its likely worth) please do so. I was thinking about offering 3,750 without those hideous wheels and with the clutch...

Thats probably one of the cleanest 1G's I've ever seen. Looks to be a good deal.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1185

I like the wheels.. :shrug $4k-4.5k sounds about right to me, that car looks very clean, and very well taken care of. Plus, hes probably got about 7-10k in extras. I would offer your $3,750. Who knows, he might take it. If not, i would break into the 4k area.

Originally posted by Nine5eclipse03
I like the wheels.. :shrug $4k-4.5k sounds about right to me, that car looks very clean, and very well taken care of. Plus, hes probably got about 7-10k in extras. I would offer your $3,750. Who knows, he might take it. If not, i would break into the 4k area.

wells are fugly imo, as is the "eclipse" sticker on the bumper. The rest of that car is clean as hell.

Always offer low and then increase as you talk w/ seller

offer him $3000 and work your way up to a price you want.

Guy wanted 17k for my 99 and i talked him down to just under 14K...

and that was when she had 26,000 original miles.

good luck.

I wish my GSX was that clean! That car is cherry.

Seems to have very tasteful mods. I would buy it and add dsm link and call it a day! I agree, I would offer 3300 just so you dont insult him by lowballing the shit out of him. I would say anything around 4k would be a good deal. The only thing I would recommend doing is a compression test when you go to look at it.

Go for it!

it looks like you could eat off of that valve cover! so clean :whoa

$3500 seems pretty good. Then take off that Eclipse lettering. It's also begging to be lowered on Hot Bits.

As for the comp test. What do I need to disconnect and where is it, so that I don't flood it? do I just find the inj. harness or is there a fuse that will be easier? If I got it I would definitely remove all stickers and paint the piping and intercooler black, also that exhaust is pretty bad... probably find a cleaner looking catback.

I was told the 90's are quite a bit different (in a bad way) than the 91-94's as far as wiring goes, anyone know the details or is this just BS? I'll be looking around on tuners in the meantime.

Car fax anyone?? 4A3CT64U9LE155073

He told me everything is in perfect working order and it only has a small oil leak at the sending unit...


EDIT: A friend knows an adjuster and he only found that it had hail damage in march 2002. Guess that explains the paint being so clean.

Won't hurt to see it in person. Looks very clean though.

OK, seems like some pretty solid mods. Not too ambitious but made to give you some more pep (read as less likely to break stuff). Places where there are body problems; wheel wells rust (behind the tires), shock tower rust (usually inside the engine bay), and check the rockers. BUT, from the looks of it, you probably won't have those problems. of course, look inside and underneath for any crumpled and then repaired body parts (bumper area especially).

90's are the "bastard child" of the 1g's. There are some annoying little differences (that I can't remember off the top of my head). I part out cars and people are often specific on the 90's parts (of which I haven't broken down a 90 yet). ECU is different, coil/ignotor? maybe, tranny's of course are 22 spline, shifter cables and set-up, the oil cooler set-up, crap some other things too.

The rear end is a 3 bolt, so you will not be able to do drop shots with it. The 3 bolt generally can't take abuse. The tranny's in 1g's are the biggest achille's heel. Check that out good. definitely downshift the gears before buying. Listen for gear whines from the rear end. You will find the gears in the tranny to be a bit "thunkier" than ours. You can usually use the tranny as negotiation leverage.

Price for a clean well kept 1g sold privately; around $4k is fair. Looks to be a pretty fair deal.

Oh wow, I think you just scared me off... That sucks. I'm tired of having the bastard child of a car that I do now(RS)... So when you say the rear end sucks, is that with 400+whp cars and whatnot or even a relatively stock car is at risk? Is that something that can be swapped without TOO much effort?

Originally posted by CarbonFiberRST
Oh wow, I think you just scared me off... That sucks. I'm tired of having the bastard child of a car that I do now(RS)... So when you say the rear end sucks, is that with 400+whp cars and whatnot or even a relatively stock car is at risk? Is that something that can be swapped without TOO much effort?

Dont let him scare you off with the ass end. Damn near all 91 and 90 cars came with the non LSD rear end (code name 3 bolt). The 4 bolt is what you want and has LSD, and it just so happens I have one for sale!

To do a comp test, just unplug the ignitor under the coils.

Having a 90 is not a bad thing. Damn near every part still fits. the only diff. is sensors and electronics...and the spline count on the tranny and Xfer case. The guy I bought my GSX from swears by the 90 model cars (the guy has over 30 1g's in his woods so he has seen them all). But they are nicknamed the "bastard year"

Buy this bitch already!

Here is my slut:

unplugging the ignitor is going to prevent the injectors from firing?

I still might get it... I have a sale pending for my SE-R this weekend and if it sales I might just get the mustang I posted about a while ago... not sure. I think it might be more reliable and just as capable if not more so.
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_mesg&forum=60&topic_id=21379&mesg_id=21379&page=3

Originally posted by Chamuko
wow, clean. 1gs are not known for crankwalk etc.

yea true, its more along the lines of the 6 bolt engines from the 1Ga engines are less likely to walk. they started the 7 bolting the engines after 92

i do agree that it is a friggin ridiculously cleean car and whatnot,but for me, i wouldnt want to buy a car with with all those mods already on it. im assuming upkeep for the car might be PITA and you cant really determine its history.

i noticed he has prothane motor mounts, there will be fair amount of vibration in the car because of this. i have the balance shaft removed on top of the motor mount so i dont know how it compares so it can get a lil annoying at times, but hey its better than wheel hopping all the time. i guess im more annoyed at the fact i cant mod anymore cause im broke as fuck and have to start payin loans soon:(
i dunno...those are my .02

You ca get a 3 bolt rear with LSD. The car i parted out last year had one. I sold the rear to Steve Pietti for 50.00 on Chicago DSM.

Terry

Pacifier?

it's got the symborski shit kit... i'd buy that for a dollar..

wow looks pretty good. does it have the wonderful 2nd gear grind?

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
You ca get a 3 bolt rear with LSD.

Funny thing is all the three bolts I have parted out were LSD. Someone told me that all the 3 bolts are LSD, but I ain't buying that (yet). But they apparently can't take the abuse. As ScreaminE stated, the 4 bolt swap is the way to go. The three bolt will not last on 400 to the wheels.

Just to be sure, I didn't post to scare you off. As a matter of fact, I thought the deal looked pretty good. I just like to give you info to work with so you can make a bit more of an educated decision.

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon You ca get a 3 bolt rear with LSD.

Funny thing is all the three bolts I have parted out were LSD. Someone told me that all the 3 bolts are LSD, but I ain't buying that (yet). But they apparently can't take the abuse. As ScreaminE stated, the 4 bolt swap is the way to go. The three bolt will not last on 400 to the wheels. Just to be sure, I didn't post to scare you off. As a matter of fact, I thought the deal looked pretty good. I just like to give you info to work with so you can make a bit more of an educated decision.

Some 3-bolts have LSD and some don't (no LSD on ABS models for example). Look under the rear bumper and see if there it has a sticker on it that says LSD.

At that price, he's losing his ass. Quit sniveling and go test drive it. Don't abuse his shit, but put some wood to it. Listen for odd noises, ask questions that help determine how much of the work he's really done himself. If the car is solid, offer him $500 less than what he's asking. It's beyond a fair price.

To give you an idea. The engine in my GVR4 came out of a 90 GS-T. It had over 200,000 miles on it and there was a fire in the engine bay. I cleaned it up on the outside, threw on some new belts and a water pump, and it's amont the quietest, nicest running 4G63s I've ever seen.

90 turbo cars are tanks. That's a damn fine platform to start playing with. You'll be posting shit off your 2GNT for sale within six months if you buy that. I guarantee.

Originally posted by Eric

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon You ca get a 3 bolt rear with LSD.

Funny thing is all the three bolts I have parted out were LSD. Someone told me that all the 3 bolts are LSD, but I ain't buying that (yet). But they apparently can't take the abuse. As ScreaminE stated, the 4 bolt swap is the way to go. The three bolt will not last on 400 to the wheels. Just to be sure, I didn't post to scare you off. As a matter of fact, I thought the deal looked pretty good. I just like to give you info to work with so you can make a bit more of an educated decision.

Some 3-bolts have LSD and some don't (no LSD on ABS models for example). Look under the rear bumper and see if there it has a sticker on it that says LSD.

Funny thing about this is that I knew there were LSD 3 bolts out there, but thought they were rare.

I assumed my 91 had non LSD and never ever took the time to look at it. So today I am finishing up some things here and there to try and get the car running and seen a bright orange sticker staring me in the face! Look at the pumpkin and I be damned! I have an LSD 3 bolt! Made my day!!!


So I think you should listen to driggs, stop being a woman and go test drive this thing!

Hey, I'll be a woman if I want!

I pm'd the guy an offer of $3,800 and asked to come by next week to check it out. So the differences of the 90 model don't really make a difference? and if it has abs that means no rear lsd for sure? And disconnecting the ignitor keeps the engine from being flooded during a compression check?(doesn't make sense to me)

Originally posted by CarbonFiberRST
Hey, I'll be a woman if I want!

Biatch. :P

Just check it out. I just found out that I've put close to 2000 miles on my Galant (which is sporting the burned-up, 200k motor out of a 90 GS-T, remember) with less than a quart of the shittiest, nastiest, most foul-smelling assrot slime funk fluid I have ever seen in the transmission. Threw in some fresh BG Synchroshift and it's like driving a new car.

They're tanks. If he takes care of his shit, he takes care of his shit. Someone's going to see a clean car at a good price and snatch it right up...

problem is I need something to drive to and from work (30 miles each way) every week day this summer semester and next spring semester and also make the home to school trip(2 hour drive each way) nearly every weekend until I'm done with college... probably gonna be a year and a half longer at least. So I might just look for a 99-01 gsr or something. Or do you think a 90 gsx can make it? I'll be alternating between whatever I buy and my RS unless I sell it... I put 15,000 miles on my SE-R (which I sold Friday) in about a year doing this and only drove the RS maybe a month out of that year(MS issues)...

y did u sell the SE-R. Those are the perfect daily drivers IMO. Decent power, good gas mileage and good engines. If the engine ever went, swap a FWD DET motor in it }(

That one had too many issues.