I just got my camber kit or kits. I got the adjustable to 3+ degree for the front and the back. My best friend owns a parts store and got all 4 for $280(is that a good deal?) I was looking at them and i kinda don't know how im supposed to install them , is there a write up anywhere?
My original plans were to intstall it myself and then take it to an alignment shop to get in back in factory spec. What should i do? Is there any other place i can get them for cheaper before i pay the $280 next week? TIA

98 northstar white GS
17 motegi MR7-kumho ecsta supra 712 215-45-zr17
sprint 2" springs- CF dash,gauges,pedals,shifter
weapon r CF mats-short ram-CM stage 2 clutch
borla axel back-shaved keyholes and centerpiece
waiting to be installed:
Jl 500/1 -2 JL12W3's-monster cable wiring
$300 altezzas are still in their box

Hello... I have that kit.. I don't have any lower price info for you just a tip.

If you get this kit in poly-urethane (Much better and stronger then Rubber) be sure to spay it down with White Litheum(sp?) Grease.

If you don't... the sound that the car makes when "bouncing" is nasty! the Grease will lube things up and the crunching sound will go away. The only time I hear that sound now is when I jack the car up.


Just a tip... Good Luck!
-Soular

For the front ingalls install, the new bushings will totally replace the old upper control arm bushings. If you take a look at your front upper control arm, you will see 2 bushings on each side of the control arm, and it will have "legs" so to speak, that go up into the top of the fender and bolt in at the engine bay, right on each side of the strut tower. You ingalls kit will completly replace these "legs" and bushings, with offset adjustable ones, so you can move your upper control arm outward to give more positive camber. This is very important-- When you install themm, be sure to have the kit adjusted at its most negative setting(all the way back, have the sliding bushing touching the leg part). I say this because even while at this adjustment, it still gives you about 1.25+ degrees of camber, which was perfect for my 2" drop in my front. But the big problem is that if you adjust that bushing outward any more, the outer part of the upper control arm will hit the inner fender well. You can look to see for your self. Raise up the front wheel, and look up at the control arm. The outer edge by the ball joint is what you are worried about, as this will hit the fender if you adjust the ingalls kit too positive(outward towards you). You will notice there is a little pocket that the ball joint end of the control arm rides up into the fender, this is what it would hit. So i would just start off by installing them at its most negative setting which is the 1.25 degrees. And dont pay to have them done, its VERY simple to do. Dont even have to take off the wheel! Raise up the wheel you are working on, loosen the 2 nuts on each side of the stut tower that hold in the legs into the fender, pull down on the control arm, and the wheel assemmbly will come downward, and then that gives you the room to swing outward the whole control arm so now you are looking at the bushing end of the control arm, and its resting atop the tire. Use a socket wrench and a open end wrench to take off each bushing, and then replace the old ones with the new ingalls ones. Tighten down, then swing back the control arm, push it back up into the wheel well, and then put the nuts back on the new legs back in the engine bay in on each side of the strut tower. Thats it! very simple. I have the 15 dollar mod for camber in the rear, but the rear is just as simple to do. If you got tools, and can use your hands, do it yourself.

Same complete kit was available at groupbuycenter.com for $215.00 shipped last month. I almost got those then found out RRE had a better deal for me.