-98 GS-
AEM Cold Air Intake; Ground Control Coilovers; APC Indiglos; Ingall Front/Rear Camber Kit; Gunmetal Wheels; Toyo Tires


http://www.geocities.com/bebe1405/index.html


i have looked through the search engine and all over the web. i need detailed instructions on how to bleed my brakes. i have never done it and i need to. i just changed my pads and the pedal still almost touches the floor and it is very mushy. i am not paying anybody to do it so u guys help will be greatly appreciated! thanx!!!

two man opperation
one on the pedal the other on the brake caliper
do one side at a time

pump pedal to build pressure
hold pedal to floor
turbo bleed screww 1/4 turn to let out fluid
tight screw and release pedal back up
pump pedal for pressure
hold pedal to floor
turbo bleed screww 1/4 turn to let out fluid
tight screw and release pedal back up
if you don't see the pattern by now...

"The world is a dangerous place to live; not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it." - Albert Einstein



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold 1/2, Rear disc brake conversion kit w/, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

-98 GS-
AEM Cold Air Intake; Ground Control Coilovers; APC Indiglos; Ingall Front/Rear Camber Kit; Gunmetal Wheels; Toyo Tires


http://www.geocities.com/bebe1405/index.html



k i understand that but what order how many times, etc??????

here is the general rule for bleeding-- Start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. Do the Right Rear first, then the Left Rear, then the Right Front, then the Left Front. Do as mentioned above. Pump the pedal to build pressure, then loosen the bleeder screw to let out fluid, and BEFORE the pedal is all the way down, tighen the bleeder screw, to make sure no air is sucked up when the pedal is on its way back up. Do this to each wheel about 5 or 6 cycles, or until you have all new, clean fluid coming out. If there is air in the system, you might hear the fluid pop a little when it is coming out the bleed screw...Thats it! And also, when your replace brake pads, be sure to have new rotors or at least turn(machine) the old rotors, or else the two metal mating surfaces won't wear in together properly, causing squeeling or bad braking...

this'll help:
www.speedbleeder.com

I just searched the archives on bleeding brakes. trust me, it is there.

I'ts a learning experience.

There's a way to to it one-manned: attach a little hose to the bleeder nipple that is immersed in a can of brake fluid. Siphon a little out first so there is no air in the hose. (I use clear aquarium tubing) Then open up the bleeder screw and go pump out a bunch of brake fluid. Watch the fluid reservoir to make sure you have plenty new fluid to go down, don't wanna run dry.

Yes, it does suck to have to keep getting out and looking at where you're at, but if you don't have anyone around... it works ok. I do this with the car running, but you might not have to, I'm not sure.

Dan

uh oh I've been bleeding it the reverse way... is it rear farthest I always thought it was closest.