please look and my reply on the posting by me on the 23 of jan

later mike

Of course you need the rotors and the calipers (dual piston up front single piston on rear).



You also are going to need to get brake proportioner valve.(if you dont have this part dont put them on). Basically the disk and drum prop valve is set up for drums in the back, meaning that 80 percent brake power goes forward and 20 goes to the rear.



Question: Is a stock 2GS-T brake setup going to have 60%/40% braking? I thought that all the GS-T/GS/RS had 80%/20% valves and only the GSX cars with dual piston calipers had 60%/40% setup due to the rear drive rotating weight or something like that.


With the disk and disk prop valve the brakes are more like 60% forward and 40 rear. If you dont change the valves you might as well leave the drums on. Now another thing you need is the emergency brake lines, They are different trust me. You will go to put the cable in and it wont lock in. When you go to put on the rear hub you will need to take it apart to put in the inner brake dust cover. Your brake lines need to be set for the right brake combo otherwise there is a possibility they wont fit. Example gs w/ rear disks gst or gsx,it all depends on what you get the rear brakes off of.



Sorry to have so many questions. Have you actually changed RS drums to GS-T/GS rear disc. Not a GSX setup. I think I am getting more confused. BTW: I am trying to stay in the Street Touring class and I cannnot upsize my front rotors. I also have stainless lines and Dot 5.1 fluid to help.


Thanks for your help Mike!!!! If you do not feel like answering, just blow me off....I am sure I will get it to work some how :)

DeanoD
1997RS-NeverTurbo
http://ar.dsm.org

Hey man it is no problem I can answer q's all day but it might be easier if you call. I actually changed to gsx but I'm not sure all the parts are the same. I do know that the e brake cable is not the same. You can call me it will be a hell of alot easier I will e mail you my phone number. late mike

LAST EDITED ON 29-Jan-01 AT 10:52 PM (PST)

Found some more info on this conversion via a discussion at ASOG right now. This guy mkaes it sound easy, but it sounds kinda complicated to me. I NEED PICS...heh

Here's his post and the url...

Re: rear drum to disk upgrade(by "baddodge")-ASOG
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
rear drum to disk upgrade is one of the easiest upgrade to do if you have a good idea of the mechanics of braking systems.

what you need is...
1) rear discs
2) rear emergency brake assemblies.
3) emergency brake cables
4) calipersand brake hoses and their brackets

you can get everthing for the uprade from all 95-00 avengers,sebring coupes, talon, eclipse.with rear disc brakes except for the e-brake cables(which i got from the dealer as so to make sure they would not be rusted or seized all that needs to be done after the parts are gathered is the following

1) remove wheels
2) disconnect the brake line
3) disconnect the e-bake cable (drum)
4) remove the 4 bolts holding the hub assembly and the backing plate for the drum and hub.it can be removed, the hub(bearing) can be used with the disc brakes
5) remove e brake cables, this requires removal of center console, unbolting of airbag ecm to gain acess to the e brake cable inside of the car . note: youll need to also be completely under the car to unbolt brackets that hold the cables in place under the car.... be extermely careful to make sure car is supported
6) install disc brake emergency brake cables
7) reinstall the hub and new backing plate for the disc brake it includes the complete emergency brake assembly
install the brackets for the calipers
9) install calipers and connect brakeline
10) bleed the system and adjust e brake
11 install wheels and test drive (do not test n busy highway try in a quiet neighborhood first

i bought everything for this upgrade at a salvage yaard for $150 i got rotors off a talon, calipers from an eclipse and the backing plates from a sebring. the cables i got at the dealer for another 52$ i never got to replacing the proportioning valve but the brakes feel fine and its been 2and a half years so i may never do it


http://pub11.ezboard.com/fasog75673questionsandproblems.showMessage?topicID=2579.topic

Jason
98' Eagle Talon ESi-T
Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)


http://springfielddsm.homestead.com/JasonsPics.html

Mike....left a message for ya on your cell. I will try a bit earlier on Thursday. What time is good for you?,

I am using the list of parts and instructions that Jason posted below. We pulled off my rear wheels and drum. I can see that I need much more than just the calipers, rotors and SS lines(I have these already) to do this conversion.

I am picking up the following parts Thursday:

1. rear emergency brake assembly that fits into the rotor hub
2. caliper mounting brackets
3. metal dust shield with cutout for the caliper
4. Ordering emergency brake cables for a GS-T(from dealer). I did not want to use cables from a junkyard car...corrosion etc.

The install, according to the directions below, seems fairly painless. I just want to make sure I did not forget anything. I compared a GS-T car with my RS today and it looks like that is everything. Let me know if I need any extra parts to do it.

Thanks again Mike and Jason. I will post the results when she is finished. BTW: I installed my fronts today. KVR Performance crossdrilled/Cad plated rotors, Hawk HP plus pads, Russell speedbleeders and RRE stainless lines. I will wait on flushing my system (Dot 5.1) until the rear is done. The rear is going to be completely GS-T factory except for the stainless lines, speedbleeders and KVR Performance Carbon/Kevlar pads.

DeanoD
1997RS-NeverTurbo
http://ar.dsm.org

LAST EDITED ON 01-Feb-01 AT 09:36 AM (PST)

...but I find myself contemplating the conversion

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology is the Only Substitute for Displacment"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

I went to my friend who owns allmitsubishi.com and got the rest of the parts required.

The dust shield/mounting plates/emergency brake assembly/emergency brake cables all came together as one unit. These just mount to four bolt attachment bolts. The calipers mount on the plates and the rotor slides over the emergency brake assembly. The only thing I do not like is removing the center console to attach the two emergency brake cables to a bracket. The whole job should take about 2 hours.

If I have time, I will do a faq with pictures. It is really hard to visualize without the actual parts in hand and a GS-T car to compare it with. I plan on keeping my factory proportioning valve(80/20)in place and see how that goes. For the autoX season, I might buy an Earl adjustable valve and play with different settings on the track.

DeanoD
1997RS-NeverTurbo
http://ar.dsm.org

Hey Deano who is your friend at allmitsubishi.com? When I do this... soon. I'd rather talk to him since he'll know what's up with it.
Thanks.

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga
Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Michael, I wanna do this as well. Another project I wanna do together maybe man. I have very little experience with brakes!

I might go up there or have ya come down for a weekend this summer or something after I get my new house! Either way, we can just go crazy on our cars all weekend or somethin! heh

Tell me when the UDP install gonna happen!

Rear disks and calipers....sounds sweet! I know it won't help my performance hardly at all either! Just doin it cause I like how they look!
:-)


Jason
98' Eagle Talon ESi-T
Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)


http://springfielddsm.homestead.com/JasonsPics.html

in North Little Rock, AR. He has used parts cars for only mitsu cars and is also an Arkansas Club DSM member. He will make you a killer deal on the conversion parts. Tell him Deano sent ya and to be gentle on the pricing....LOL

You need:
1. 2-Calipers w/bolts
2. 2-Rotors....have autozone ect. turn them for ya($10 each)
3. 2-hoses
4. 2-pads
5. 2-The whole assembly that has the dust cover/caliper mounting plate/rear emergency brake assembly and rear emergency brake cables all together. It comes off the used car in one piece with the cable attached.

I suggest upgrading to stainless lines and a carbon/kevlar-rotor friendly pad for less fade when it heats up. Our rear drums completely fade out when they get hot. The organic pads just cannot keep up with the task.

DeanoD
1997RS-NeverTurbo
http://ar.dsm.org

Deano, what pads did you get/recommend?

Yeah when I do the swap and bleed the system I'm going to get braided stainless steel lines probably from RRE unless you know of some place that has em cheaper.

Yeah we'll just have to see Jason, What do your weekends look like in general?

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga
Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

I ordered KVR Performance carbon/kevlar pads for the rear. I also have RRE stainless lines and Russell speed bleeders. I am flushing the whole brake system with Dot 5.1 fluid.

DeanoD
1997RS-NeverTurbo
http://ar.dsm.org

How are you doing the flush? I was just going to bleed all four wheels and add new fluid.
But I would be afraid of doing this with the 5.2 mixing with the 4 synthetic and real don't mix well. Ar eyou going to drain the whle system? and represurize the whole thing? even the master cylander?

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga
Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

The Dot 5.1 is just a better(higher boiling point)Dot 4 fluid. Stay away from Silicone fluids. Regular Dot 5 is suppose to have silicone and that is bad for our seals/master cylinder. All of the other synthetic fluids should be mixable. Just read the label and it will tell you.

I put speed bleeders in all the calipers, hooked up a small vacum hose, and just pumped the old fluid out(looked kind of milky and not super clean), when the reservoir got low, I just refilled it and started again, when the new super clean fluid started coming out, all the old was gone. I did the rear first and then the front. I used a bit less than one quart to completely flush the whole system out and to refill my reservoir.
This also took two people to do, even though I used speed bleeders.

Next time I flush the system, I will used a different color fluid to make sure the old stuff is gone. I plan on doing this every season not since I plan on doing a lot of autoX events.

BTW: I used Wagner Severe Duty Brake Fluid Dot 5.1 wholesale price was less than $6 per quart. retail was around $14


DeanoD
1997RS-NeverTurbo
http://ar.dsm.org

Thanks Deano, I'm going to wait for my Discover card to cool down and then give him a call, couple of big charges lately. Thanks.

Jason, Sounds good to me. I wish it was warmer now I'm getting antsy and want to do something to my car...

I'll let you know the plan for the UDP, If you are planning on getting one soon, I'll hold off til you get yours and we'll just do the swap together. Up to you but I'll let you know. Once it's nice enough to spend more than 10 minutes in the garage and still e able to feel my fingers.

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga
Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Actually, although the UDP is extremely high on the priority list, I have other projects which need finishing.

mostly turbo-related things. (I/C pipes, bigger injectors, S-AFC) And then.... an UDP. So much to do....only so much money! heheheh

Anyhow, I wouldn't mind (whenver it get warmer of course) just to come up and give ya a hand or whatever. I just wanna see it done. I guess it's all timing, though. Whenver I get this other stuff done, and it ges warmer, I may have the UDP. :-)


Jason
98' Eagle Talon ESi-T
Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)


http://springfielddsm.homestead.com/JasonsPics.html