hey guys its mike from rpm (www.go-rpm.com.) Well the stainless steel brake lines work great. The bushings squeak alot (brand new greased and all). The install took 8 hours. you'll need a hydraulic press. There are also some trick tools you can make to help. The solid motor mounts make the car shake at idle. As for the brakes I found them cheap 10$ for front and rear calipers and rotors. So I had them powder coated and bought the rebuild kits and switched to slotted rotors and the difference is huge. One thing if you go to do this make sure to grab the e brake lines since they are not the same. any Q's hit me up phattalon@yahoo.com later mike

One thing if you go to do this make sure to grab the e brake lines since they are not the same.

I do not understand this statement. I am doing the rear caliper/rotor conversion later in the week(drum in rear). I have RRE stainless brake lines for the rear as well. These are suppose to bolt right up to the calipers.

DeanoD
1997RS-NeverTurbo
http://ar.dsm.org

No problem. First you should inventory your parts. Of course you need the rotors and the calipers (dual piston up front single piston on rear).You also are going to need to get brake proportioner valve.(if you dont have this part dont put them on). Basically the disk and drum prop valve is set up for drums in the back, meaning that 80 percent brake power goes forward and 20 goes to the rear. With the disk and disk prop valve the brakes are more like 60% forward and 40 rear. If you dont change the valves you might as well leave the drums on. Now another thing you need is the emergency brake lines, They are different trust me. You will go to put the cable in and it wont lock in. When you go to put on the rear hub you will need to take it apart to put in the inner brake dust cover. Your brake lines need to be set for the right brake combo otherwise there is a possibility they wont fit. Example gs w/ rear disks gst or gsx,it all depends on what you get the rear brakes off of.

later mike