i went to the acrchives and the post wouldnt show so im repostin sorry

for those dat have done it can u please post all the nescessary parts that i need to get to make the complete conversion thanks!!!

From 95+ from any GS, GS-T, or GS-X(after 11/94 build date):
1) Rear brake calipers
2) Rear drum-in-disc: metal backing shield and drum
3) Rotors
4) Pads & shims

Note: I think the original instructions called for the use of the oem "disc" emergency brake lines. Upon my inspection of the stock "drum" emergency brake line, and the "disc" emergency brake line, I can not discern any difference. Since HadesOmega has confirmed they are not necessary for his install, I would concur.

The hub is re-useable as well.

The brake lines look identical but listen to someone who has done the swap. The fitting on the back of the dust cover does not fit. There shouldnt be a big problem here. The e brake lines are only 40$ at a junk yard. The biggest problem is the proportioner valve. See the stock proportioner(drums in rear, disc in front) is 80%up front,20% to the rear. The better set up (disc up front and in rear) is 60% upfront and 40%to the rear. IF YOU DONT CHANGE THIS PART OUT DONT DO THE SWAP. The problem is getting to it. I changed mine out while the motor was out. Good luck and use FLARE NUT WRENCHES to avoid stripping shit out. later mike

I heard that someone confirmed that the brake perportion valve is the same part number on all cars 95-99 no matter what brakes you have.



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All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


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Alpine CD Head Unit
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Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

like i said trust someone who has done the conversion. This is why i usually dont help or respond in the forum. The proportioner is not the same call the dealership and ask them stop going by hearsay go right to the source. Late mike

Hey Merlin & Deano,
Just putting this one to your attention b/c I know you had addressed both of these issues that have been brought up within this string.

Merlin addressed here the ability to re-use the parking brake lines:
http://63.99.108.81/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=show_thread&forum=DCForumID15&om=1373&omm=14&viewmode=threaded

And Deano within the FAQ addressed at the end the ability to re-use the proportioner valve b/c of the universal nature of it:
"- You do not need a proportioning valve. The brake proportioning valve in the RS-drum/GS/GS-T is all the same part number verified by my mitsubishi parts manager"
http://www.2gnt.com/files/reardisk.htm

Hopefully later this weekend, I will be able to fully verify both statements. I have all the parts in my garage including the oem "disc" emergency brake lines, should I need those. BTW, those lines came free with my emergency brakes.

All the partts are in my garage to do this winter. you can get the whole thing for $250 shipped from http://www.allmitsubishi.com talk to Dan Gill.

Just goes to show that my mitsubishi dealer's parts department is filled iwth idiots. After someone oelse on the board talked to their dealer and was told that the proprtioning vaklve was the same partt number I called my dealer and they told me the same thing. So if someone has the right partt number for me I'd appreciate it, since the monkeys at the dealer are of no use to me.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
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All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

me and merlin just did mines on saturday... didnt do proportioning valve and also used stock e brake lines... works very well imo

ok, im in my brake class in college right now (getting my associates in auto) and i have to disagree with the comment posted earlier. the reason is that the proportioning value should be fine. the only time you would change it is if you were going to be rear wheel drive....on any front wheel drive car, disc or drum, the breaking is going to be 80% in the front...it doesnt matter if you have disc or drum in the back, its still the same.....on a rear wheel drive car, the front does 60-70% of the braking....thats why there is a difference. im gonna attempt this swap when i can find the parts and ill set the record straight for good.......until then, i still believe the mod page is correct......joe

Wow lotsa talk about brakes here and such. Seeing as how I have done two disc to drum conversion I'll give a little 411. Yeah you can use the old ebrake line, you just have to dismantle the parking brake assembly on the discs, you go ahead go to the junkyard and take the freakin ebrake line off if you want to but I'm telling you it's a bitch and most of the time they're cut off already.

I bought my disc brakes which consist of: Rotors, calipers, brackets, new hubs, parking brake assemby, severed parking brakelines, pads, shims, brake line, and dust shield (hope I didn't leave anything out). at a local Pick UR part junkyard for 80 bucks and I installed those suckers myself.

Kory bought his Rear discs of a full service yard for 150 bucks which is still a good deal considering it was mentioned above you can get them for 250. Woohoo they hecka rough handled those poor brakes, the dust shields were all bent up and crap but we fixed it ^_^ oh yeah hella corrosion as well, no problem cleaned that up as well.

I'll say again like in my other post that the hardest part of doing the brake conversion is getting the freakin HUB, DUST SHIELD, and KNUCKLE to align properly so you can bolt them all together. The other hard part is attaching the ebrake link to the drum assembly because you have to dismantle it. Then the rest is easy stuff, might as well lubricate everything and paint them since they're off of the car already also. Save you trouble in the future, I should know ^_^'. For some reason the rear brakes seem to rust faster than the fronts, or its that I go over them with a wirebrush tool to make em shiny :P

NE know how to adjust the parking brake though? Haha my parking brake is like 7-10 clicks to fully engage, haha Kory's is like 1 click I want mine to be like Kory's bwahaha drift action!

Wahaha wouldn't it be cool to proportion a lotta power to the rear brakes hehe so you let the tail slide out?! Uh oh that's when I start to get into trouble though :(

ok, i found all the stiff that i need from a bad ass junkyard that specializes in imports....they are a little pricey but im getting all the brake parts from both sides, the weatherstriping around both doors(which has been driving me freakin nuts, see interior page), and im gonna see if hell through in the throttle body all for $300....so i plan on having this done within the next 7-10 days so check back with me and ill let you know how it went. im gonna do it at school, so my teach can help with any unforseen problems, ok later, joe

My $50 matching rear calipers came in today (woohoo). Got it off of a 95 GSX. Now I have one extra rear caliper that is slightly larger from a 95 GSX that perfectly fits that I will not use.

Our cars have so many generations within generations, it's eery!

hey when you guys got those discs and shit form the junk yard, where they a little rusted and the dust shield bend....just curious cuz the ones i found, the rotors are rusted and the shields a little bent from havin no wheels...still ok you think? nothing a wire brush cant fix right?

>hey when you guys got those discs and shit form the junk
>yard, where they a little rusted and the dust shield
>bend....just curious cuz the ones i found, the rotors are
>rusted and the shields a little bent from havin no
>wheels...still ok you think? nothing a wire brush cant fix
>right?

The wire brush can be used to fix up the dist shields. As far as the rotors go, just take em to any brake and clutch specialty shop and pay em like $15-20 to both turn and _sandblast_ the rotors (in mechanic talk...it's just "cleaning up" the rotors). They'll come back looking pristine. I did that and they look absolutely new.

I'll post some pics soon.

allmitsubishi.com sells the parking brake cables/backing plate/parking brake hub assy already put together. It makes the swap very easy and quick. If I did not have access to a complete swap over parts kit from an all disc dsm, I would have probably left my original cables and only bought the parts I needed. $250 includes all parts needed and shipped. This is a fair price, considering the parts you get are good quality OEM.

One thing to point out. Early 95 GSX/Talon AWD came with different rear disc brakes. The rears are slightly bigger and include vented rotors in the rear. This will increase your rotating mass and I am not sure if they will install on our cars. I do know all Late95 through 99 dsm cars(eclipse and talon) have the same rear brakes and proportioning valves. This valve is the same part number on all models. It splits like this. one line into two, left front80/right rear20, right front80/left rear20. You cannot adjust the front to back while using an aftermarket valve. You may be able to do it with two of them, but to get the right/left split even would be risky. With solid disc rotors in the rear, using an agressive pad will warm up the rear when heavy braking. I would not mess with changing the setup or increase pressure to the rear.

Everyone likes to think that they did it the best and cheapest way possible. I would stick to the proven way. Be advised that many people on this board like to have opinions on many things they have not actually done themselves. Be cautious. When I first did my conversion, everyone said that all I needed were a set of rotors/calipers and everything bolted right up. They were dead wrong and now they are picking at my mod instructions. I am glad they have been of some use :) Thanks Juan for posting them.

It has been a while....here goes. To adjust the parking brake, remove your center console to access the parking brake cable linkage. If I remember correctly there is an adjustment on the main T-bar that connects the handle to the two cables. You should be able to see it as soon as you remove your console. You may have to take out your airbag unit to get access to it. Should take 5 minutes once you get the console off.

this is a ver valuable post for everybody

and i just wanna thank everybody that responded to this post because it is very good reference for everyone

thanks yall

When I first did my conversion, everyone said that
>all I needed were a set of rotors/calipers and everything
>bolted right up. They were dead wrong and now they are
>picking at my mod instructions. I am glad they have been of
>some use :)

I hope no one here is picking on your instructions here Deano. I think they're absolutely wonderful. I'm just going to attempt to do the conversion with the rotos/calipers, AND the dust shield/drum parking brake and see what happens ("lazy man's way"). From my inspection of the factory service manual though, the emergency brake lines appear identical.

Thanks again Deano for the great instructions, though. I will certainly use them to guide my own install!

right on brother, all advise is taken all the time, bty allmitsu is out of the kits, thats the problem......

ok, swaps done and btw, i just want to add that rpm97talon could not have been more off about the advise he gave on the brake swap....! ........joe

Heh,...I agree his info wasn't "exactly correct," Joe, but I had to edit your post. A little harsh bro, and I can't tell you how many people unintentionally disperse sometimes innaccurate info. (you know flaming is a no-no)

I went ahead and kept your point about his info being wrong, but didn't include some of the other stuff. Just no need to start a flame war over that.

I've sometimes "guessed" on things and had people correct me, so no one's perfect. So as Juan has mentioend before, argue issues or points, not their character.

its cool bro, i understand, just a lotta stress of the swap be4 i did it because of the misinformation....u know? thanx joe

Welp everybody says I'm wrong. I guess the whole deal is that I was. I realize now that some of you are probably going for just the looks of the rear disc. I converted the whole car (97 esi) to the suspension of a 96 awd gsx. Which does have a different prop valve and as pointed out earlier that the rear rotors are bigger. I just dont uderstand why everyone is going with a junkyard rotor. Your spending all this money and doing the conversion, but you wont buy crossed drilled or slotted rotors (zinc coated)? Oh well Hey deano thanks for your help and sorry if I pissed on eveyone Just like deano said I attempted this conversion all by myself. The only referance I had was a shop manual and a friend at mitsu. Oh well later mike