Is the bolt on the back of the caliper the only thing holding it on? I'm need to change my pads like last week. So I'm gonna go ahead and tackel it this weekend. Thanks for the help.

James
1999 Eclipse RS
Northstar White
stupidfast21@yahoo.com
http://northstar.pcizone.com/index.html

Just take your wheel off and you will see 4 bolts that need to come off. When you take these bolts off the caliper will come off and you will be able to get the pads off.


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Sweet! Thanks.

James
1999 Eclipse RS
Northstar White
stupidfast21@yahoo.com
http://northstar.pcizone.com/index.html
"LETS GO TO WAR"

well #$#$# me i paid $100 labor to get that ish done last year, i've learned a bit since then :).

javi d
vroom n' boom

Do the bolts have to be torqued to a certain ft lbs or just tightened?

James
1999 Eclipse RS
Northstar White
stupidfast21@yahoo.com
http://northstar.pcizone.com/index.html

...Use a C-Clamp to push the caliper piston back in. Dont forget to remove the brake fluid cover because the fluid will rise when u push the piston back in.

Go spend $20 bucks on a Chilton's manual (helps alot)has torque specs and detailed instructions.

there was only two bolts for my calipers??? and actually all i needed to take off was the bottom one and the caliper swung up and the brake pads can be slid out....however, when you get your pads on you may have to bleed the brake line so you can compress the piston....but thats about it

I just payed 40 bucks labor to get the pads replaced and resurface the rotors. Shouldn't the rotors at least be resurfaced everytime you change the pads (~10 to 20k miles).

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom

You should only worry about the rotors if the surface is in bad shape, or they are warped. Otherwise i would say there isn't much of a need to get them re-surfaced.

Our calipers are held in by two bolts, that's it.

BTW in my opinion (and in the opinion of many others) the stock rotors suck. they will eventually warp. If you are changing pads get aftermarket rotors as well, they aren't much harder to change, just take the brake caliper bracket off (held on by two bolts) and use a mallet to take off the old rotor (it will be "stuck") and then just slide on a new one. (the wheel holds in on)

Changing pads and rotors is very easy. There is no reason why you should pay through the nose to have this done when it is easy for anyone to do themselves.

"Keep on charging the enemy, so long as there is life."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.750 @ 88.93 MPH
2001 DSM Shootout Winner - NT Class

Modifications: GS-T muffler, Iceman cold air intake, AFX underdrive pulley, Brospeed header, Apexi Super AFC, Extrude Honed intake manifold, KYB AGX shocks, Powerslot front rotors, Porterfield R4S front brake pads, and occationally Mazda RX-7 rims with 225/50VR16 Michelin Pilot SX-GT tires

I agree. The stock rotors suck. I've already had mine remachined twice by Satan. I think I might go ahead and pick up some slotted rotors. And yeah, I know I need a chiltons manual but I just never think to pick one up. Guess I should go ahead and do that too. Thanks for help.

James
1999 Eclipse RS
Northstar White
stupidfast21@yahoo.com
http://northstar.pcizone.com/index.html