okay i just got this car 2 weeks ago it has 190k on it i cant go over 60mph, sometimes its tolerable. im a tech and im kinda stumped. i really need to pull all four wheels and get a good look at the brakejob the young guy did on the car. i might have warped rotors too. brakes kinda pulsate too but car drives good till i hit the freeway. whats common to cause this on these cars?car feels slow as hell too but i geuss thats how they drive? not real peppy?

Not being peppy has little to do with driveline or suspension vibrations.

As for troubleshooting, there is nothing out of the ordinary:

Check all rubber bushings & boots, ball joints, wheel bearings, tire balance, bent rims, alignment components, etc.

And capitalize the letter I.

Originally posted by CODE4
Not being peppy has little to do with driveline or suspension vibrations. As for troubleshooting, there is nothing out of the ordinary: Check all rubber bushings & boots, ball joints, wheel bearings, tire balance, bent rims, alignment components, etc. And capitalize the letter I.

I'm trying, sorry I'm grammatically challenged.Its a Dsm thing? I left dsmtuners It was just too much for me. I've been on car forums for years and most only car about language and flaming.
I have experianced some squeeking when parking the car making slow turns. I'm worried about balljoint seperation after another thread i saw. The pervious owner thought the balljoint were bad and he may have taken it in. I lost my job so I cant really inspect it like I would normally. My alldata is pretty vague just saying to squeeze and inspect the boot.I am picking up new rotors tomorrow since my breaks pulsate but maybe I need to worry about balljoints instead since I don't have alot of money. I don't think the rotors are making the car shake at 60. And I'm not sure that it's a wheel bearing either, can the balljoint cause the shaking? I cant pinpoint it to either side of the car, it does not pull to either side. Thanks

Ok I have an update on my car. I tore into things today. I could lift and push down on the balljoint almost 1/4- 1/2" so I replaced both of the straight lower control arms. I suspect that my drivers side wheel bearing is bad though, if I grab the wheel i can wiggle it side to side slightly and I cannot do it on the other side. So the lower control arm balljoints didnt change anything. It still vibarates at 60mph. I don't want to throw parts at this car, nor do i have the money to do so. My rotor might be slightly warped, i cant tell, but I dont think it would cause my problem. I can move the tierod ends if I twist on them but I really think that's normal on most cars. I might have a bad rear motor mount too but haven't verified it just yet, I geuss that could cause the problem.
Any ideas or input anyone? I'm done geussing.

Originally posted by hoursetraitor
Ok I have an update on my car. I tore into things today. I could lift and push down on the balljoint almost 1/4- 1/2" so I replaced both of the straight lower control arms. I suspect that my drivers side wheel bearing is bad though, if I grab the wheel i can wiggle it side to side slightly and I cannot do it on the other side. So the lower control arm balljoints didnt change anything. It still vibarates at 60mph. I don't want to throw parts at this car, nor do i have the money to do so. My rotor might be slightly warped, i cant tell, but I dont think it would cause my problem. I can move the tierod ends if I twist on them but I really think that's normal on most cars. I might have a bad rear motor mount too but haven't verified it just yet, I geuss that could cause the problem. Any ideas or input anyone? I'm done geussing.

Bad CVs can cause vibration at speed. If it's only happening under load, chances are you've got a chewed up CV.

if it's constant regardless of what the throttle is doing, I'd say its more likely something else.

All my axles look okay and dont click when turning but youre right it could be the cause.
I'm going to try to get a drivers side bearing in there today and see what happens.

Originally posted by hoursetraitor
All my axles look okay and dont click when turning but youre right it could be the cause. I'm going to try to get a drivers side bearing in there today and see what happens.

I took the car in today. Long story short, when the last owner blew out a tire and replaced the rim and tire it was balanced wrong big time. Car drives great now.

Crap now I have a new problem and it's probably not good. The car has puffed out grey smoke, maybe kinda blue i can't tell, but a few times and always a few mins after start up. Then it goes away shortly?!

Most likely worn valve stem seals.

Originally posted by CODE4
Most likely worn valve stem seals.

It had a bad smell too. But why not right away on first start up or first thing in the morning? It did it after a long drive on a hot day. I idled the motor 5 mins on a slight hill and when I left it was smoking.
My temp gauge goes to half almost right away after start up and never higher but it seems off and that has me concerned. Car does use oil as far as I can tell but bad valve stem seals usually do it right at start up. It doesn't do anything at w.o.t. so I think my rings arent to blame. If I have to, I'm going to do the head up and timing belt and I geuss water pump too unless I feel like being dumb. At which point I might want to re-ring it and do new bearings in car. And yes in the car with crank in block. I have a trick to push new mains in:) and thrust washers. I need a reliable gas milage car otherwise i would get a can of K&W block seal and call it a day, stuff works for at least 6 months.

Okay, I pulled all the plugs and found nothing special, just old Denso plugs. I got 180psi on all cylinders which is reasuring but I need to do a valve covergasket to fix the oil leaking around my plugs. And I need a special puller to do the harmonic balancer for timing belt job right? I know the pt cruiser and neons have a blind crank so these probably do too.
The NGK BKR6E copper plugs really woke the car up. I can really tell in 3rd gear. A turbo would really make this car fun.

Yes, check the wiki or search the performance section about the crank pulley / damper.

Originally posted by CODE4
Yes, check the wiki or search the performance section about the crank pulley / damper.

I should probably buy one. I've used some that didn't work so well. Although my compression is good and the egine runs smooth, I might want to overhaul it. I love the gas milage