Hey guys,

So I recently did the rear camber mod and atfterwards went to get the alignment done. Long behold, the mechanic at Mavis Wheel and Tire snapped my right rear toe angle adjustment bolt. This was last Friday, and today the bolts (I asked him to order me a set) finally came in but are the wrong ones!

Anyone have a part number for the below "concenctric toe angle adjustment bolt"?



Also, do these bolts come as a set with the concentric washers and lock nuts or would I need to order them in addition. If so, part numnbers, or a parts diagram, would be awesome.

Thanks in advance,
Jess

41604 = MB911314
41636 = MB911283
41605B= MR130510
41606 = MS450992

Next time look under caps on the main page 2gnt CAPS parts diagrams

damn. sorry jess.

Yea man, this sucks. And the more I read about it the worse this looks. Check out this article I just found:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/205503-replacing-seized-rear-toe-control-arms.html

Looks like this broken bolt is gonna cause me a lott of trouble now..

Hey guys,

So based on the link I posted above it looks like there is no way to simply remove the cam bolt once it has seized up. God damn salt belt!

So, I guess I am gonna have to replace the entire assembly on both sides. Has anyone else ever done this before?? I think these are the parts I will need:

MB911314: Cam Bolt (x2)
MB911283: Cam Plate (x2)
MR130510: Cam Nut (x2)
MS450992: Cam Washer (x2)
MR162571: Left Rear Link
MR162572: Right Rear Link

Can anyone else verify this and does anyone have any advice on this topic / installation?

Thank god I live in the south

I have done it. And the bolts were seized on my car also. I had to cut the bolt with an angle grinder and cut-off disc. Only took about 15 minutes each side.

But I replaced them with custom arms that are fully adjustable.

BFH + punch = win!

Buying a shitload of parts before exhausting other options = fail!

Win or Fail, it's your decision.

Hey Clay,

Yea, I guess you are right. I'll take a hammer and punch to it before I go ahead and buy an entirely new assembly. If that doesnt work, then I will go ahead and buy all the parts.

Cant believe a simple allignment caused all this shit!

Sorry, I was being a smartass in that post, but you needed something to calm you down.

Soaked it earlier today with WD-40 and just went out there with a punch and a small sledge hammer. Thing did not even budge. I put on some more WD-40 and Ill let it sit over night and give it another go tomorrow, but I got a feeling that thing is in there for good!

WD-40 kinda sucks for this application. Try kroil or PB Blaster. Bother are penetrating oils.

Originally posted by freelancefool
WD-40 kinda sucks for this application. Try kroil or PB Blaster. Bother are penetrating oils.

PB is the shit. I love that stuff.

Smells good too.

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G

Originally posted by freelancefool WD-40 kinda sucks for this application. Try kroil or PB Blaster. Bother are penetrating oils.

PB is the shit. I love that stuff. Smells good too.

x2

I got a better look at the whole thing tonight and I dont think a blow torch and a jackhammer would get that sucker out. You cant even see where the bolt ends and the link begins anymore. Its one big rusted mess.

I have gone ahead and ordered the new suspension components and will be changing it all this weekend hopefully. Ill let ya all know how it goes.

You could always just give the torch and jackhammer a try?

Take pics and share?:thumbsup

I'd keep hitting it with PB Blaster. And I will X3 that vote, it smells great!

I learned from my last 2G and all of it's broken bolts... PB it first!

Yea, I will admit PB blaster has gotten me out of a few binds in the past. I would have also used it on this application but I have none left. If i even thought I had a chance of getting this thing out I would go buy some more PB, but Im telling you, it is a rusted mess. 10 years in the salt belt has done it in. At this point I think even if the bolt came out, the inside of that link would be soo fucked up it wouldnt even be worth it

New suspension parts are coming and I will be borrowing my neighbors reciprocating saw to cut off the old links. Ill try to take some pics and let you know how it goes.

**Update**

I did this job today and it was a pain in the butt, but not too terrible. I pretty much followed the steps in the DSM Tuners link I posted above and everything went pretty smoothly. Didnt even break any saw blades!

I did, however, need to use my propane blow torch on both sides once the cut was made to remove the remaining part of the cam bolt and the small piece of bushing left on the inside. Without using a torch to heat it all up, Im not really sure how else it would come off.

If anyone ever has any questions about this job, please feel free to PM me.

Congrats on getting the job done. :thumbsup

I clicked on the tuners link and it looks like it's a pain in the ass getting that broken bolt off. My only question is that if you took your car to an alignment shop/mechanic and he broke the bolt, why didn't you make him fix it or at least pay for the time and money it took to get his error fixed? :shrug

If you go back in the thread you will see that they did order two new cam bolts after the mechanic broke the one. When they got the wrong bolts in, and I had read about how this job was going to be far more difficult than just swapping out the bolts, I decided to do it myself and then demand a discount when I went back for the alignment.

It was a PITA to get the old stuff off. Once you make the cut with the sawzall, which is annoying enough as it is, you need to get the remaining bolt end and inner piece of bushing off as well. The only way I was able to get it off was to heat it up for a while with a torch and then go at it with vice grips and an open end wrench.

By the way, when I was all done and went back to get the alignment done I got the guy to give me 25% off, so overall I am happy. I didnt really trust them to do the job right anway..