So I lowered my car and bought a camber kit. This one to be exact:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPC-FRONT-CAMBER-KIT-MITSUBISHI-ECLIPSE-TALON-AVENGER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1417Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem230292318485QQitemZ230292318485

And when I got everything installed, I lowered my car down and the upper control arm just bottomed out in my inner fender. The camber kit swung my upper control arm out too far even when on it's minimal camber correcting setting. It would work fine if the car wasn't lowered, but to lower it, means that the upper control arm must sit higher up. So, what the hell would this kit even be useful to someone who lowered their car. Anyone else have this problem???

How far did you lower your car? Mine has been lowered about 2" and I have maybe an inch of travel in the suspension.

My drop was only 2.5 The camber correction caused the upper control arm to sit out too far, so when you started to lower the car back on the ground, the suspension started to settle and then the arm hit the inside of the wheel well.

If you have a 2.5" drop, you have no more suspension travel. Raise the car.

Originally posted by freelancefool
If you have a 2.5" drop, you have no more suspension travel. Raise the car.

Agreed.

Originally posted by 97AllMtr
My drop was only 2.5 The camber correction caused the upper control arm to sit out too far, so when you started to lower the car back on the ground, the suspension started to settle and then the arm hit the inside of the wheel well.

My bad, 2.5 was a typo, I ONLY DROPPED THE CAR 1.5 So, know what????

trim the outter edge of the control arm. no more than 1/4 inch. you might see the edge bent now. Happened to me at 1.5 drop.

Terry is probably right here. I wish I could give you more informed advice, but instead of buying a camber kit I bought these.

Might I ask where you got these from?

Holy crap you paid 500.00 for control arms?

Originally posted by Slo2g
Might I ask where you got these from?

www.roadraceengineering.com

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Holy crap you paid 500.00 for control arms?

Well they were $440 when I bought them 2 years ago. I needed new balljoints. New control arms are $125/side for Moog arms and a camber kit would have been another $150.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
trim the outter edge of the control arm. no more than 1/4 inch. you might see the edge bent now. Happened to me at 1.5 drop.

I trimmed mine too. Just be careful not to cut into the ball joint boot.

As for the SPC arms, this is a really great company to order from: http://catalog.disturbingmotorsports.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_2_21_202&products_id=747

All good advise, thanks. Wish I could afford those control arms, here's a set on Ebay for cheaper shipped! Still too much though.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eclipse-Talon-Control-Arm-Ball-Joint-Camber-set-1994-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1420Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem140269911610QQitemZ140269911610

Could always go this route, but les schwab would charge too much to have those installed and I don't have a way to press the old ones out and get the new ones in.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPC-FRONT-CAMBER-KIT-TALON-ECLIPSE-GALANT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1420Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem250296464895QQitemZ250296464895

The second link that you posted is the replacement ball joint for the control arms that I have on my car.

They will not work as replacement balljoints on stock control arms.

Originally posted by freelancefool
The second link that you posted is the replacement ball joint for the control arms that I have on my car. They will not work as replacement balljoints on stock control arms.

No the second link is for the adjustable ball joints for the factory arm. They have been around a lot longer than your arms...lol

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon

Originally posted by freelancefool The second link that you posted is the replacement ball joint for the control arms that I have on my car. They will not work as replacement balljoints on stock control arms.

No the second link is for the adjustable ball joints for the factory arm. They have been around a lot longer than your arms...lol

So those ARE for the stock arms? I was thinking of going with these ones, they are cheaper. What do you think??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=320247219998

Anyone have a how to on these by any chance? How much do you think Schwabs would charge to install these? I want to do it myself, but I don't think I have the right tools.

Those might work. I can't say that I have seen them before though.

They have been out since the set that replace the bushings came out. Depending on your drop, they might be hard to adjust without raising and lowering the car. This would just make alignments take longer. As far as how long the ball joints last? No idea. The camber kit that replace the bushings will def outlast a set of ball joints unless you get into an accident that breaks them.

Those ball joints adjust by turning them. you remove our old ones and they fit in the same bushing thats welded in the arm. by turning them, they are shaped like a cam lobe and it will push the Balljoint out or in. problem is they affect your caster as well and you have no way to correct it. with the bushing style camber kits, you can correct camber and maintain the correct caster and toe.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
They have been out since the set that replace the bushings came out. Depending on your drop, they might be hard to adjust without raising and lowering the car. This would just make alignments take longer. As far as how long the ball joints last? No idea. The camber kit that replace the bushings will def outlast a set of ball joints unless you get into an accident that breaks them. Those ball joints adjust by turning them. you remove our old ones and they fit in the same bushing thats welded in the arm. by turning them, they are shaped like a cam lobe and it will push the Balljoint out or in. problem is they affect your caster as well and you have no way to correct it. with the bushing style camber kits, you can correct camber and maintain the correct caster and toe.

I don't think that this one works like a cam lobe, I think it just slides in or out not affecting the caster. Look closely at the picture, there is a slot on the bottom that it rides on only to ride back and forth, so it can't swivel causing a caster problem.

They are just the generic knockoff versions of the SPC camber adjusters. Put them next to each other and they are identical except for boot color.

Originally posted by daes_venge
They are just the generic knockoff versions of the SPC camber adjusters. Put them next to each other and they are identical except for boot color.

Yes, but I don't think either have a lobe on them to cause a caster problem. They slide in or out. You can see it in the pictures of the SPC one. :) Thanks for the help guys. I think I'm going with the cheaper ones.

You have to turn them....look closely or just believe what you want.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
You have to turn them....look closely or just believe what you want.

Um.....No.... :rolleyes look at the picture! It has a "slide" plate, meaning it "slides" You don't turn them, there's a slot that it sits in and slides in or out, not on a lobe. Look here, geeze.

This should be interesting...

Originally posted by djtrickee
This should be interesting...

What? Am I wrong? I am pretty sure I'm right, but if I am wrong, please show me the way.

Originally posted by djtrickee
This should be interesting...

agreed...

Originally posted by barza21

Originally posted by djtrickee This should be interesting...

agreed...

I guess I am missing something......Can someone please point it out if I am?? I looked at the pictures and posted them because I see it a certain way, if I am wrong, please do tell.......

edit:
Just looked up the directions to that specific kit and step 9 is as stated:

9. Adjust for correct camber by slightly loosening top lock nut and sliding joint in or out.

Says nothing of a lobe style camber correction.

Originally posted by djtrickee
This should be interesting...

Man....and you're like a gnat. Too bad your life cycle is longer. You mucked up my other thread, are you trying to do the same to this one? If you don't have something of worth to contribute, then don't say anything.

Originally posted by 97AllMtr

Originally posted by djtrickee This should be interesting...

Man....and you're like a gnat. Too bad your life cycle is longer. If you don't have something of worth to contribute, then don't say anything.

Everything I say has worth to, therefore I continue to say whatever I want. You on the other hand...

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by 97AllMtr

Originally posted by djtrickee This should be interesting...

Man....and you're like a gnat. Too bad your life cycle is longer. If you don't have something of worth to contribute, then don't say anything.

Everything I say has worth to, therefore I continue to say whatever I want. You on the other hand...

.....point exactly. shut up.

Your stories become tiresome. Fly away... shoo.

Originally posted by djtrickee
Your stories become tiresome. Fly away... shoo.

And your lack of a brain has become tiresome. Fly away... shoo.
:wary What stories??? Oh, I get it! You made an ass of yourself in my other thread, I got the last word, and you are all butt-hurt over it.....makes sense. Why do you want to do the same thing in this one???? So, does anyone want to actually respond back about those ball joints not being a "lobe style adjustment"? Or you could just be annoying like DJ......unbelievable.

Originally posted by 97AllMtr
Or you could just be annoying like DJ......unbelievable.

What cracks me up is that you come back here 2 days later to comment solely on my post about you. Lol, not for an update on your issue but to remark on my comment. Talk about butthurt. Seriously.

I could follow you around the forums pointing out all the mis-information and downright shitty advice you so blindly hand out but I will leave that to all the other members to play with.

What's worse? My annoying you, or you telling people they don't need to bother balancing their bottom end? lol. Go away.

EDITED to be nicer.

Originally posted by 97AllMtr

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon

Originally posted by freelancefool The second link that you posted is the replacement ball joint for the control arms that I have on my car. They will not work as replacement balljoints on stock control arms.

No the second link is for the adjustable ball joints for the factory arm. They have been around a lot longer than your arms...lol

So those ARE for the stock arms? I was thinking of going with these ones, they are cheaper. What do you think?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=320247219998 Anyone have a how to on these by any chance? How much do you think Schwabs would charge to install these? I want to do it myself, but I don't think I have the right tools.

Actually since I just reread this thread and looked at that auction, I would be leary of the seller. The 1g cars use a MacPhearson (sp?) strut setup and therefore they do not use upper control arms.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by 97AllMtr Or you could just be annoying like DJ......unbelievable.

What cracks me up is that you come back here 2 days later to comment solely on my post about you. Lol, not for an update on your issue but to remark on my comment. Talk about butthurt. Seriously. I could follow you around the forums pointing out all the mis-information and downright shitty advice you so blindly hand out but I will leave that to all the other members to play with. What's worse? My annoying you, or you telling people they don't need to bother balancing their bottom end? lol. Go away. EDITED to be nicer.

OMG.... Seriously shut the F**K up. What is your deal?? You never even post about the issue, just muck up the whole thread. Well, I built my motor and didn't have it balanced! hmmmmm I'm pushin 150k and the only problem I ever had was my lower rad pipe leaking. (that must have been from excessive vibration from not balancing it though huh) GO AWAY!
EDITED to make you not look like such a homo.

Originally posted by freelancefool

Originally posted by 97AllMtr

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon

Originally posted by freelancefool The second link that you posted is the replacement ball joint for the control arms that I have on my car. They will not work as replacement balljoints on stock control arms.

No the second link is for the adjustable ball joints for the factory arm. They have been around a lot longer than your arms...lol

So those ARE for the stock arms? I was thinking of going with these ones, they are cheaper. What do you think?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=320247219998 Anyone have a how to on these by any chance? How much do you think Schwabs would charge to install these? I want to do it myself, but I don't think I have the right tools.

Actually since I just reread this thread and looked at that auction, I would be leary of the seller. The 1g cars use a MacPhearson (sp?) strut setup and therefore they do not use upper control arms.

Gotcha, but I changed my mind on those generic ones, I'm going with SPC, can't beat the name brand, especially for suspension. So, they must not be a "lobe" style adjustment huh???

Just got off the phone with SPC. The old style joints which possible are the style you might find on ebay or in warehouses was a cam lobe style. These were only made a couple years when the new slotted design came out. Apparently there there were drawbacks with some vehicles and the caster that would get changed. The new ones are interchangeable with the forged arms you can purchase for around 500.00

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Just got off the phone with SPC. The old style joints which possible are the style you might find on ebay or in warehouses was a cam lobe style. These were only made a couple years when the new slotted design came out. Apparently there there were drawbacks with some vehicles and the caster that would get changed. The new ones are interchangeable with the forged arms you can purchase for around 500.00

So the ones I am looking at are only replacements for the expensive aftermarket arms?

I dont know what ones your looking at, i dont feel like reading this entire post. you want SPC ball joints for a 95-99 Eclipse/Talon.

Here is a run down of the options available from SPC:

Adjustable ball joint style:
SPC-67170 adjustable from 0 to +1.5 degrees

SPC-67370 adj from +1.5 to 3.0 degree

Bushing style or mount style:
SPC-87460 adj from -.75 to +.75 degrees (these replace the bushing in the factory control arm mounts)

SPC-87580 adj from 0 to 1.5 degree (these replace the entire anchor bolts)

SPC-87590 adj from +1.75 to 3.25 degrees (these replace the entire anchor bolts)

These are SPC part numbers and are for front only. You will need to know how far your car is out of spec to choose the correct set.