My front wheels use to squeak and vibrate like hell, So I changed the right front wheel hub assebly. The viberation went away 70%, but it still used to squeak. I figured it'd be brakes. So I got myself rotors and pads. Today I took the (right) wheel off, turned the rotor, it squeaked. I took the caliper off and it stopped squeaking. so I took off the pads and the rotor, Put on the new rotor and new pads with alot of caliper/brake grease.

now the question is. When I was putting the caliper back on.. It wouldn't go on.. The piston was not far back enough to clear both pads. What did i do wrong?? I didn't have my chilton's near by so I couldn't look in there.

When I looked at the old brake pads.. .IT didn't have shims. (aparently the guy who worked on my car didn't put in i guess) anyways.. I took the old pads and I put it back on there with the new rotor. And I lubricated the caliper.

I took it for a test drive. The squeaking went away 90%. but it still was humming a little. I didn't drive much. cuz I wanna put on the new pads.

any help? suggestions? what am I doing wrong? and why the hell my wheel squeeeeeks.. when the caliper is on?? is it a faulty caliper or osmething???

thanks.

(sorry for such a long post)
p.s. need help over night.. so I could fix it by tomorrow morning.

ENKEI RP02 17" x 7"
AF/X UDP (still have to install:))
K&N Filter
springs/coilovers (still searchin' :D)





Junoon
97-RS
automotive/industrial design student :-)
Michigan

There isn't anything wrong with your caliper, you need a C-clamp to compress the piston, and voila. You can fit the new/thicker pads in.

Coo'
1997 RS
AEM Cold Air Intake
B&M Short Shifter
Trust Shift Knob
Trust EVO Exhaust
Front Upper Strut Bar
Rear Upper Strut Bar
AutoMeter A/F Ratio Gauge
'tis it

Or just push the piston as hard as you can with your hand. It can be done! my friend and I did it with his dual piston TSi AWD brakes.

-Jeff
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T'd

http://gs.dsmpower.com

ok got that.. thanks alot

But does anyone knows.. why would the wheel squeeks only when the Caliper is on?? I mean its been that way forever.



ENKEI RP02 17" x 7"
AF/X UDP (still have to install:))
K&N Filter
springs/coilovers (still searchin' :D)





Junoon
97-RS
automotive/industrial design student :-)
Michigan

Use a C clamp and a block of wood to compress the caliper fully and flat. If it compresses cock-eyed you can get a squeek. Also with out the shims there can be squeeking. Make sure you use high temp brake caliper grease and lube the brackets the pad moves on. Also use the caliper grease on the caliper guide pins.

"Claim Victory in your heart, and the universe will follow."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Clutch Line, Rear Motor Mount Ins., S-AFC, EGT

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar

Waiting for: Intake Manifold being ported/polished, A/F Meter

LAST EDITED ON 28-Jun-01 AT 00:06 AM (PST)

Can you use "white lithium" as the grease. NOTE: this is not a drug, :P

Coo'
1997 RS
AEM Cold Air Intake
B&M Short Shifter
Trust Shift Knob
Trust EVO Exhaust
Front Upper Strut Bar
Rear Upper Strut Bar
AutoMeter A/F Ratio Gauge
'tis it

Yes... you CAN... But The brake caliper grease has better heat properties, and doesn't break down like white lithium grease does at high temps. So especially if you brake hard and build up heat, it is better to use the high temp caliper grease.

"Claim Victory in your heart, and the universe will follow."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads, S-AFC, A/F Meter

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Clutch Line, Rear Motor Mount Ins., EGT

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar

Waiting for: Intake Manifold being ported/polished

ok.. problem solved..... First I'd like to thank everyone for helping me out..

now.. the problem was... I had my brakes done by a shop(close to over 6-7 months ago), A$$holes ripped me off.. for 250-300 dollars.. and didn't do it right to begin with (it squeaked the first day but went away in a day), I took off everything.. and there were NO shims, and it didn't have grease anywhere.. the caliper was dry as hell.. alog with everything else. The rotor was hitting/scratching the calipier and that's why it was squeaking SO bad. So I changed both rotors, pads and I greased up everything. Final results = no squeaking :) but found an oil leak.. either the head gasket.. or the gear column assembley on rack and pinion.. :(


ENKEI RP02 17" x 7"
AF/X UDP (still have to install:))
K&N Filter
springs/coilovers (still searchin' :D)





Junoon
97-RS
automotive/industrial design student :-)
Michigan