hey guys, one've my bushings on my rear suspension is gone. it's the one right above the tire where the two links meet. i'll try to take a pic later but i'm pretty sure you know which one i mean. i can hear it clunking around when i go over bumps and stuff. how hard is it to replace that bushing and should i get a kit and replace some others while i'm at it? some've the other ones are looking a bit ragged as well...

Do you mean the control arm.

the horseshoe shaped thing

if you want to go oem. you have to replace the entire part not just the bushing.

Originally posted by baxsom
Do you mean the control arm. the horseshoe shaped thing if you want to go oem. you have to replace the entire part not just the bushing.

the one that connects the horseshoe shaped thing and the curvy thing. i can't find it in CAPS for some reason... the rear suspension section only has the shocks an stuff... none of the arms/links :(

k it's the one at the top of part 33300 knuckle assembly.

yo i start work at energy suspension on monday, give them a call...i know they make that bushing in polyurethane

stock rubber and deflection sucks

Originally posted by turbo8u
yo i start work at energy suspension on monday, give them a call...i know they make that bushing in polyurethane stock rubber and deflection sucks

cool cool. will do. i've got their motor mount inserts and they've been great so far.

I dont think Satan sells the bushings on their own but you can get them from Energy Suspension.

so is it the "rear shock upper bushing set"?

or is it only available in the complete master bushing set?

http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/mit.html

you will prolly have to buy the whole set and the bushing is a press fit so you might need to take it to a shop unless you have a 12/20 ton press.

Terry

damn i can not find prices LOL anyone got them?

Jegs offers the master bushing kit for 95-99 eclipses for $112.00, PTuning.com offers for 138.95...

I understand that more than likely most of the bushings will need to be completed in a shop. Which ones might I be able to do myself, shops are expensive.

Im commenting on this due to a squeek that has recently surfaced in my left front side when the car hits a bump.

I have had my tokicos on for about 3 years now and I dont believe they are bad.

anyone know how much the install runs if you bring in the arm/knuckle to them off the car? what if you remove the old bushing for them already? it shouldn't cost that much to have them press it in, right? then you could just bring in each piece at separate times when you have time to destroy the old bushing with fire/guns/bombs.

HEY THAT HAPPENED TO ME TOO!
unfortunately i dont remember exactly what i got fixed cause i had a mechanic just fix it and charge me (yea i was dumb back then)... it did have something to do with the bushings. whenever i went over a bump or braked real hard it would make the clunk sound as if something snapped. anyhow i took it to a mechanic and instead of buying a new one (whatever it was) he did some welding and it went back to normal.. sorry i didnt really find out what it was exactly, but all i remember is that my mechanic said it was because i had big rims (18's only but i duno) so whenever i made sharp turns it would hit whatever the thing was.
anyhow sorry thats all i remember, but i say u fix it real soon cause mines kept on getting worse and worse until i fixed it.
good luck!

there have been plenty of topics on this. I have clunking form the back also so I researched this before. (search: Knuckle Bushing)

General consensus was it is a PITA to do. But you have to do it yourself cuz a shop will charge you an arm, leg and a first born. Look how many nuts and bolts they have to unscrew and than disconnect brakes and the whole assembly... $$$$

I don't think they will change the price if you get it out yourself and ask them to just press it back in. I think it would be a good idea to shop around.

Well get back to us with the results.

P.S I wonder if there is a portable press that can press the Knuckle Bushing in on the spot?

I put mine in with a cheapo arbor press, Ive even put ones in with a c-clamp before, sure a nice press is easier but its fun to swear and yell,etc..

I bought the master bushing kit from energy suspension and to do all of them took like 2 days. We didnt have a big press so I had to torch the stock ones and take an air chisel them. Getting them in was cake, we just used a vise... remember to use the grease in the yellow containers on the outside of the new bushings before you put them in your assemblies. :-)
Otherwise youll have squeaks from hell for the rest of your life.....

I think of it as payback for everything my car has ever done to me. The evil thoughts involving my car and a torch finally manifested themselves. :evilgrin Good times...
Dont let the opportunity pass you by...
Or you can get 'em pressed out...
-Adria

Marc, I just changed my rear knuckle bushings and it took me about 3 hrs from start to finish. Just a pain to remove EVERYTHING from thearm piece, You have to disassemble the whole rear suspension and arms and stuff. I did it with an impact and had no problems with any bolts.

All of them are either 14mm or 17mm.

When you have the whole piece in your hand and are taking out the old stockers ie:burning or chisel, Make sure you get the thin metal sleeve out too or the new bushings might not fit. You'd know what I was talking about if the stuff was in your hands.

The hardest part of the install is getting the stock bushings out. If you get that far on your own... paying a shop for the rest seems like a waste. have fun

Some of the guys here have more experience with ES. I thought that u have to press out the original metal sleeve, but apparently not. This is what ES has in their FAQ:

6) During control arm installation, how do I remove the rubber part, when reusing the outer metal shells?
Answer: The easiest way to do this is with a propane or butane torch. Leave the shell in the arm and heat-up the outside of the shell. Once the rubber bond starts to break, the rubber will boil. Be careful not to melt the shell by using even and sparing heat. Once the bond is broken, push the rubber out with a screw driver or other tool.