The other day I put on my old 14 inch rims on the front of the car to use as burners. Well today when I went to switch back to my sixteens, I couldn't get the fourteens off. Lugnuts were off and tire was off the ground, but the wheel seemed stuck. Have any of you had this problem before? If so what should I do.

Eklipsdrvr99

Pull.

Ryan
Ryeguy2002@Hotmail.com
'97 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS



http://www.monkeygods.com/Ryan
(Fast connection suggested)

Tried pulling, even had a friend help pull, wouldn't budge.

Put it back on the ground, pull forward or backward a little, then try again. If it still don't come off, kick the shit out of it, and if that don't work... well I'm all out of ideas. I don't understand how the rim could be stuck but you can't tell what's holding it.

Coo'
1997 RS
AEM Cold Air Intake
B&M Short Shifter
Trust Shift Knob
Trust EVO Exhaust
Front Upper Strut Bar
Rear Upper Strut Bar
AutoMeter A/F Ratio Gauge
'tis it

Happens all the time to me when changing from my 16" back to my 14" Alloy wheels. Just a well placed kick to the outer edge of the tire SHOULD break it free. Make sure your jack is secure when you do this. Otherwise, leave the lugs off and let the car down,push hard on the tire and make the car rock , and this should break it free. Jack it back up and take it off. I am NOT big fan of moving the car with the lug nuts off, but if that is what it takes, do it but BE CAREFULL.
GOOD LUCK

tap it with a rubber mallet, that usually does the trick

of course, tap it on the inside, not the outside :) you'd be suprised how many people forget that

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.803 @ 86.48 MPH

Same thing happened to me, I used a screw driver between the wheel and the bolt plate thing. A little twist of the screw driver and it came right off.

Steve "Phrenzy" - DJPhrenzy@aol.com
'99 Eclipse GS (sport) - Barcelona Red/Tan Leather
HRC Stage 2 going in now
HKS W1 3" cat-back
Autometer boost/GReddy EGT
Konig Verdict 17x7 - Toyo FZ4 215/45ZR17
custom system, cosmetic mods...

Happened to 14" once. If you don't want it to happen again. Put a light coating of anti-sieze on the brakerotor where the wheel makes contact with the rotor. And the corrosion won't fuse the two together. Since I did this there have been no problems getting the wheels off the few times I've pulled them off before I switched to my 17"s. To get them of I used a dead blow hammer on the insid eof the tire.(Dead Blow os just a hollow rubber mallet filled partially with sand)

"Claim Victory in your heart, and the universe will follow."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Clutch Line, Rear Motor Mount Ins.

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar

Waiting for: Intake Manifold being ported/polished, EGT, A/F Meter, S-AFC

loosen the lugs a little, but not all the way off, just make sure they have about half an inch between them and the wheel. then just drive back and forth (only 10 yards or so) until you hear the wheels pop off the hub. then hit the brakes, jack it up, and remove.