Okay, so when I drive normally obaying all traffic laws...


As I come up to a stop and press the brakes, my steering wheel starts to vibrate/shake as I come to a complete stop.

wtf m8?

So are you saying it doesn't shake when you dis obey the laws :scratch


LOL....seriously though If you haven't read this faq yet it has some really good info.

Check it out

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=368072

Could be two things. One...check all of your tire pressures. I had a tire that had a slow leak and it caused my car to shake bad under braking. Option 2 (and more likely) is a warped rotor. It can happen over time.

Originally posted by Silv Blt
Could be two things. One...check all of your tire pressures. I had a tire that had a slow leak and it caused my car to shake bad under braking. Option 2 (and more likely) is a warped rotor. It can happen over time.

I'll try that

thanks

lol, i dont know, havnt noticed it when I drive like an asshole. :p

That's because he shakes violently while driving like an asshole.

Sounds like a brake issue for sure.

warped rotors..
are they stock rotors??
if they are stock they are warped, if its aftermarket you might have a crack in the rotor/uneven pad wear,etc...

And by warped, everyone means "uneven pad transfer", but calling it warped rotors is fine too... just don't want to get into that discussion again.

The temporary solution is to machine or replace your rotors. If they're stock, they WILL warp again.

A long term solution is to buy powerslot or brembo OEM replacement rotors, and some good Axxis or EBC brake pads.

A permanent solution is to upgrade your calipers, pads, and rotors to a larger size more appropriate to our car's fat ass.

I wish I could afford a full Brembo or Bear brake set-up.


How are those AEM slotted/cross-drilled rotors? Any good? I herd they crack very easily.

Power Slot Makes a GREAT direct replacement rotor for our cars. Slotted not drilled so less stress and no chance of cracking due to the drilled holes. And resonably priced 79.95 each for the fronts from summitracing.com PN: PSR-518PSR (right) PSR-518PSL (left)

I upgraded to the Big brake kits (front and rear) from powerslot for a GSX, and opted for NEW Dual Piston Calipers from Parts plus:

Front Calipers $195 from local parts plus (including tax and core)
Rear Calipers $220 from local autozone (including tax and core)
Front Rotor kit 12.5" rotors $440 from ebay including shipping (Power Slot PN: 29-561)
Rear Rotor Kit 11.5" rotors $168.95 from summit racing (PN: PSR-29-630)
Goodridge SS flex lines $99.95 from summit

If you go this route be prepared to do some minor grinding to your caliper brackets (or you can have a machine shop do it with more precision). You should be able to get DPC's much cheaper used from your local pick and pull. This is cost effective as you get excellent performance for front and rear for about the cost of a decent Wilwood front brake kit.

If you want to keep using your single piston calipers powerslot has a kit for them also (powerslot PN 29-560 11.7" rotors ) but I recommend if your gonna spend over 400 on your front rotors you might as well upgrade your calipers at the same time.

But it all depends on what you are willing to spend you can do a front brake job for under $60 if you want to get some cheap "white box" rotors and cheap pads but I guarantee you'll warp them again cuz they are "Cheap"


"Cheap and good don't usually go togather very well"