Well, (kinda long, questions at bottom)

After the install I am still having some issues with the drivers side parking brake. I used the cables from the donor car and the sheathing seemed a little longer than the ones I took off my car, maybe they are binding? I backed off the parking brake cylinder sprocket all the way drove it around and it stop rubbing but it doesn't engage very well, takes many clicks to engage and I can still force the car to move with engine even though parking brake is set. I took it all back apart and pulled the rotor off. I engaged and released the parking brake to check the action and it seemed like one shoe moved more than the other and it didn't want to go back all the way when I released it. I tried spraying silicone lubricant on pivot points to help. Anyway, I put it all back together and tried to set the brake correctly, turn the sprocket till you can no longer rotate the hub then back it off 5 clicks. Once again mad rubbing noise. So I backed the sprocket all the way off again and it stopped rubbing but now it won't engage well. I also notice that when I backup with the brake released I can sometimes hear it rub, especially when turning in reverse. Passenger side seems to be fine except for the cable length issue.

1. Could there be an issue from the brakes sitting in a junkyard for a while, maybe something needs to be rebuilt or lubed?

2. Is it possible to cut away some of the sheathing or change the way it anchors under the console to help with the fitment? Do you think that is the issue or should I leave it alone? The original parking brake cables are gone so I can't use them.

3. Could the rotor or shoes have a problem? What should I look for?

Am I the only person to have this problem?

well the rear disc cables do use different mount points on the frame than the drums. With that being said you cable should fit fine.

Doesnt sound like you know how to adjust prake correctly. I say take the parkign assy apark and clean everything with brake cleaner. Reassemble and you want the shoes to be set so that the rotor slips on but does have a tiny bit of rubbing. It will be enough to hear but not feel. Do this for both sides.

Next you adjust the p brake handle so that it is tight half way up. if it still wont stop the car from rolling then the shoes may be worn down....what do they look like, how much pad is still left?

terry

I can set the brake correctly and get it to engage but by doing so it does not release correctly and the rubbing noise is heard. It used to be bad but it has eased up quite a bit.

I was planning on taking it apart and really looking at it next weekend. I can get it to work but I think it should work better and not make noise.

When I watch the action with the hub off, one of the shoes moves more than and before the other which led me to believe that one side was binding up somehow. I asked a local mechanic about it and he said that was normal, with the hub on the one shoe would press against the hub causing the other shoe to move. It seemed to me that it would be anchored more and the shoes would move out more symetrically and even but the mechanic thought it was fine.

What was also weird is I would hear the rubbing noise when turning, it stopped doing that already though so I don't think that is an issue anymore. I also have not heard the passenger side do any of this.

hmm never had a problem with mine I used the one that are on the car already. Try adjusting the one under the center console too that'll give you some leverage

I just did this as well, and just used my factory ebrake cables. No problems at all, took me about 2hrs to do the whole job thanks to Hades's imagestation site. Thanks dude.

Originally posted by Dont_need_8
I can set the brake correctly and get it to engage but by doing so it does not release correctly and the rubbing noise is heard. It used to be bad but it has eased up quite a bit. I was planning on taking it apart and really looking at it next weekend. I can get it to work but I think it should work better and not make noise. When I watch the action with the hub off, one of the shoes moves more than and before the other which led me to believe that one side was binding up somehow. I asked a local mechanic about it and he said that was normal, with the hub on the one shoe would press against the hub causing the other shoe to move. It seemed to me that it would be anchored more and the shoes would move out more symetrically and even but the mechanic thought it was fine. What was also weird is I would hear the rubbing noise when turning, it stopped doing that already though so I don't think that is an issue anymore. I also have not heard the passenger side do any of this.

Well that mech is absolutely correct both shoes need to work together. Have you ever noticed one shoes has more material than the other.....the shoes basic work against each other not independantly. Clean it up real nice, use a light grease for a parts store on the spots the shoes ride on. Use a little just a tiny bit is enough. use your finger and rub most of the excess off, it will almost seem liek you dont have enough. If grease gets on the shoes they will tend to bind...totally opposite of what you would think.

Terry

96 Eagle Talon ESI....Daily driver

97 Eclipse.........