so I hear ingall extremes for the fronts hit the frame, especially with sportlines.

the rear $15 camber mod isn't enough.

what are my options homies?

EDIT: yea the search option doesn't work for this one b/c there are no posts for the best kit, could you believe?

DarkOne> Well if it's isn't EZ_Daring, the oldest newbie ever!

you need adjustable ball joints. not sure with sportlines though you may need to use the ingalss for fine adjustment of caster. ball joint will adjust the camber but not sure it it adjusts quite enought. The joints will mess up your caster and thats what the ingalls will correct.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

LOL thanks for reminding me what's in my sig JOSH

I need to hear from people who actually have sportlines and have gotten their camber/caster into spec

I have SPC's ball joint 1.5 - 3 degrees adjustment. I'm not to confident in my ball joint's setup, but my camber is well within spec. Ingall's camber kit for the rear is all thats needed.

EDIT: I sorta have a sportline drop. :) To very tight finger gap in the front.

i have the "eibach" camber kit up front. it doesnt put the camber within spec, but camber doesnt kill tires super fast. it is only like 1 degree off on both sides anyway.

With a drop that low they'll all hit the inside of the strut tower. Doesn't matter what camber kit you use, all a camber kit does is move the upper control arm outward. If you want to be within the correct specs, you'll need to do some modification.

Originally posted by Mannyyy
With a drop that low they'll all hit the inside of the strut tower. Doesn't matter what camber kit you use, all a camber kit does is move the upper control arm outward. If you want to be within the correct specs, you'll need to do some modification.

The ingalls extreme adjustable cam bolts space the upper a-arm toward the outside of the car, this is why it hits w/o modification. Adjustable ball joints won't cause the a-arm to hit, because it doesn't space it out, but these arn't the good method because it throws off your caster.


If you search you will see how easily it is to modify the upper a-arm to make it work perfect.

i had a 2" drop on sprint springs. All i used up front was the specialty products camber it, does + - 1degree and that was all that was needed for the front. I rear i used the RRE kit with longer bolts and spacers. the wheels were still a little bit cmabered in but that wont cause them to wear out. heck i put over 15,000 miles on them like that on ym tires and you could not tell they were cambered ever or showed signs of it. Also my tires did not hit anything suspension wise and I have 235/40/18 tires. Just had to roll the rear fender lip (which after the camebr kit, i may not have had too) and only problem up front was if i hit a big bump going fast enough my tires would hit the front fender... but when you have 235 width tires, what do u expect.