http://www.geocities.com/turbo99gs/tie_bar_mod.html

plz dont click unless you can really help, geocities will crap out!

Based on what the instructions say, i'm supposed to attatch the tie bar to the bolts up sort of behind the gas tank... but on MachV they say that the bar attatches to the a-arm...

By loosening the nut mentioned in this guide, am I merely allowing the a-arm to drop down/make the installation onto the a-arm easier? Or am I actually supposed to get the tie bar on these bolts?

Attempting this over the weekend so I'd like to get this sorted out asap.

<<thats from the guide, the picture im referring to

Thanks!!!

his pics were way to small I started to enlarg them and said screw it let me just go look under the car Mr cocky was to quick to draw lines and circle bolts when you lay under the back looking at the right rear it bolts to the lower bolt not the upper one which he circled, loosening the top bolt does nothing for you cuz its on a bushing and has nowhere to go and is not where your mounting it so loosen the lower arm the bolt right below the swaybar and forward cuz the nut has to come off to to slide your new mod on that bolt! put it on snug tighten it then use the hex bolts so you can reach the other side (bolt) drivers side repeat proccess then lower your car till so theres weight on the suspension then torque those bolts to 71 ft.lbs then your done.If you have low clearance taken your rear tires off will make it much easier.

Originally posted by madhatter210
his pics were way to small I started to enlarg them and said screw it let me just go look under the car Mr cocky was to quick to draw lines and circle bolts when you lay under the back looking at the right rear it bolts to the lower bolt not the upper one which he circled, loosening the top bolt does nothing for you cuz its on a bushing and has nowhere to go and is not where your mounting it so loosen the lower arm the bolt right below the swaybar and forward cuz the nut has to come off to to slide your new mod on that bolt! put it on snug tighten it then use the hex bolts so you can reach the other side (bolt) drivers side repeat proccess then lower your car till so theres weight on the suspension then torque those bolts to 71 ft.lbs then your done.If you have low clearance taken your rear tires off will make it much easier.

this?

yes look at his pic even......enlarge it and look where its mounted then look under your car,he tried to pull the john madden thing and confused himself and as for the torque spec he missed that too but don't torque it till you got weight on the suspension 71 ft lbs.You should spray the bolts and let'em sit while you drink a cup of coffe maybe or spray them tonight real quick and let them sit over night mine weren't rusted but they looked alittle crusty. by the way I didn't see the ends on your mod are they like a C stlye that would just slide behind that nut or is there a hole the C stlye you won't have to take the nut all the way off. And by the way again the nut and bolt is 17mm

Originally posted by madhatter210
yes look at his pic even......enlarge it and look where its mounted then look under your car,he tried to pull the john madden thing and confused himself and as for the torque spec he missed that too but don't torque it till you got weight on the suspension 71 ft lbs.You should spray the bolts and let'em sit while you drink a cup of coffe maybe or spray them tonight real quick and let them sit over night mine weren't rusted but they looked alittle crusty. by the way I didn't see the ends on your mod are they like a C stlye that would just slide behind that nut or is there a hole the C stlye you won't have to take the nut all the way off. And by the way again the nut and bolt is 17mm

yeah i picked up an OBX rear lower tie bar from someone on the board, the holes are closed so i'll have to pull the nut all the way off

also have to get a torque wrench too I guess... Wish I could have waited so i dont have to go cheap on it... is there any shadetree way to figure out 71ft/lbs? (ive actually heard different figures in my searches but generally 60-70 something...)

Kinda like puttin in plugs with a spacer washer snug till tight 1/4 turn but then go another 1/4.Just pick u[p a cheapy for now even if its a pound off it will be alot closer than a guesstament.

yeah ill just get a cheap one from kragen tomorrow

hit the bolts with pb blaster a minute ago

thanks for all the help!

no prob

I was a mech for 8 years.....i or any other mech i know would waste time to tighten those bolts to torqu spec. Put an inpact on em and tighten till they are tight ans secure. Dont crank the crap out of em just make sure they are tight and not comming off.

here is a word of wise. when you remove the nut tap the bolt out with a soft faced hammer. Apply antisieze liberally on the bolt and reinsert it. put antiseize on the threads and tighten. This will make any removal later on a lot easier.


Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
I was a mech for 8 years.....i or any other mech i know would waste time to tighten those bolts to torqu spec. Put an inpact on em and tighten till they are tight ans secure. Dont crank the crap out of em just make sure they are tight and not comming off. here is a word of wise. when you remove the nut tap the bolt out with a soft faced hammer. Apply antisieze liberally on the bolt and reinsert it. put antiseize on the threads and tighten. This will make any removal later on a lot easier. Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Do you put heads on like that to?........maybe you do, repeat customers are good for buisness ya just got to tell them it wasn't that we put the gasket on wrong and didn't torque it down..... there was a factory defect on a muffler bearing that caused this malfunction.You guys were prolly the same ones that thought it necesary to impact the hell outta the lugs on my z-28 and I had to torch the lugs off. There are torque specs for a reason, like not streching the bolts, properly seating gasket's and insuring proper alignment of said part,I could go on but I think I made a point.

Originally posted by madhatter210

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon I was a mech for 8 years.....i or any other mech i know would waste time to tighten those bolts to torqu spec. Put an inpact on em and tighten till they are tight ans secure. Dont crank the crap out of em just make sure they are tight and not comming off. here is a word of wise. when you remove the nut tap the bolt out with a soft faced hammer. Apply antisieze liberally on the bolt and reinsert it. put antiseize on the threads and tighten. This will make any removal later on a lot easier. Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Do you put heads on like that to?........maybe you do, repeat customers are good for buisness ya just got to tell them it wasn't that we put the gasket on wrong and didn't torque it down..... there was a factory defect on a muffler bearing that caused this malfunction.You guys were prolly the same ones that thought it necesary to impact the hell outta the lugs on my z-28 and I had to torch the lugs off. There are torque specs for a reason, like not streching the bolts, properly seating gasket's and insuring proper alignment of said part,I could go on but I think I made a point.

Well someone has a real nice attitude....no i dont and i really dont feel i have to prove that to you. A bolt like that if cranked with an impact and with proper lockwasher installed is fine. most impacts i have Snap-on will crank to 200+ft lbs. An average tap with an impact is going to go about 65-75lbs. If you use an impact on that perticular bolt there is no reason to sit and torque the bolt unless you feel you are incompetant. you can take your personal attacks and shove them..grow up.

The main point i had here is: ANTI SIEZE THE BOLT FOR LATER.

God you are pathetic.

Ghetto, if you tighten the bolt good with a long ratchet...are not a weakling, then you are ok. if you feel unconfident whatsoever go spend 150.00 for a good torque wrench or borrow on. If you have a cheap impact like one from home depot (Husky 1/2 drive) tighten till it no moving with the gun on the 3rd setting. You will be more than safe.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon

Originally posted by madhatter210

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon I was a mech for 8 years.....i or any other mech i know would waste time to tighten those bolts to torqu spec. Put an inpact on em and tighten till they are tight ans secure. Dont crank the crap out of em just make sure they are tight and not comming off. here is a word of wise. when you remove the nut tap the bolt out with a soft faced hammer. Apply antisieze liberally on the bolt and reinsert it. put antiseize on the threads and tighten. This will make any removal later on a lot easier. Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Do you put heads on like that to?........maybe you do, repeat customers are good for buisness ya just got to tell them it wasn't that we put the gasket on wrong and didn't torque it down..... there was a factory defect on a muffler bearing that caused this malfunction.You guys were prolly the same ones that thought it necesary to impact the hell outta the lugs on my z-28 and I had to torch the lugs off. There are torque specs for a reason, like not streching the bolts, properly seating gasket's and insuring proper alignment of said part,I could go on but I think I made a point.

Well someone has a real nice attitude....no i dont and i really dont feel i have to prove that to you. A bolt like that if cranked with an impact and with proper lockwasher installed is fine. most impacts i have Snap-on will crank to 200+ft lbs. An average tap with an impact is going to go about 65-75lbs. If you use an impact on that perticular bolt there is no reason to sit and torque the bolt unless you feel you are incompetant. you can take your personal attacks and shove them..grow up. The main point i had here is: ANTI SIEZE THE BOLT FOR LATER. God you are pathetic. Ghetto, if you tighten the bolt good with a long ratchet...are not a weakling, then you are ok. if you feel unconfident whatsoever go spend 150.00 for a good torque wrench or borrow on. If you have a cheap impact like one from home depot (Husky 1/2 drive) tighten till it no moving with the gun on the 3rd setting. You will be more than safe. Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Listen dude there wasn't an attidude........why tell someone to ignore torque spec's, it's a very good rule of thumb to practice, and what's the big deal? It takes longer to hook up the air hose, let it build pressure,find the impact socket and then put it all away than it does to go click click click on a torque bar and do it right, everybody has shortcuts and if the only thing you had to complain about was me telling him to torque the bolt was an issue you should have repeated all the steps that I mentioned including making sure to put weight on the supension cuz one gets the idea then" well if I don't really need to torque it I prolly don't need to lower the car before I do it. get bent like your shortcuts impacts arn't for everything.

Anyone who torches a lugnut off int the brightest since there are tools to fix that problem. Yes i have seen that done too....too many people crank the crap out of lugnuts, suspension bolts, and the damn favorite....the oil filter. My god its an oil filter....tighten by hand....

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Anyone who torches a lugnut off int the brightest since there are tools to fix that problem. Yes i have seen that done too....too many people crank the crap out of lugnuts, suspension bolts, and the damn favorite....the oil filter. My god its an oil filter....tighten by hand.... Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

settle down children. star i agree with you in taking an impact to that bolt, torque specs on a bolt like that aren't quite as important as wheel lugs. as long as that bolt is securly on is all you're really worried about, it wont affect the alignment of anything (in this case at least). as for torching off lugs, there are a lot of situations where that is the only option for getting the lug off short of stripping it. heavy duty bolt removers cant even get off some lugs. however, if the lugs were simply over-torqued, they should be able to be removed with a somewhat less drastic method.