taking the brake discs off requires taking 2 17mm bolts off from the caliper, 2 off the thing that holds the pads, tapping the lug studs through the back of the disc, then screwing machined screws into those little tapped holes in the old disc, right? did i miss any steps?
those little holes stripped out on me, and i had to pound the old disc off with a sledgehammer. it was a pain in the ass, and i even broke one of the discs in half... i don't think that's supposed to happen is it? it made me nervous because it didn't require much effort at all to break it.


1996 Talon EsiNOS - Eclipse rear end

I'm not exactly sure what you are describing, but when you take the calliper off, the disc should just slide right off. We have floating rotors. The only thing holding them in place are the brake pads along with the callipers.

John
AOL IM: John99RS
john99rs@hotmail.com
http://johnseclipse.homestead.com

Not if they are rusted on..


___________________________
l e o n
1995 Eagle Talon ESi-T
Star Stage 2
Boost is GOOOOOOOD!

I've heard the bolt trick, I personally don't like it.

If the rotor rust on. Soak it in PB Blaster (or your rust buster of choice) Let that sit and soak in a for a few minutes. Then beat it off with a rubber mallet, or my preference a dead blow hammer. The sledge is too hard and can as you found out break the rotor. The dead blow is rubber with sand in the head so you still get a lot of force behind it but the blow is softened so you don't break the rotors. Hope this helps.

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. RRE FL Tie Bar(Well Almost), TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17, Slver Cadmium Plated KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads on their way.

I Have also read about the bolt trick. I just recently did mine and the fronts pretty much came right off with a couple taps from the good ole rubber mallet. My rears on the other hand....I wasn't able to get off. Does the bolt trick work on rear disks?? anyone know?? or is there a special trick I don't happen to know? anyone?? I have a set of slotted rotors chillin in my garage wating to get installed.


Jeff
96Tsi

Mods-Injen intake, GReddy Type S BOV, GReddy Profec B, GC's, Kyb AGX's, CFDF clutch, NGK 1 deg cooler plugs, Magnacor 8.5mm wires, B&M short shifter, a thermal 3" cat back, and several other non-performance add ons.

You have a better chance of breaking the rotor clean off before you bang the rear ones loose until you detention the parking brake shoes. There should be a rubber plug on the back on the wheel cylander pull it out and take a screw driover there should be a star key in the back to pull the shoes in so you can clear the lip on the rotors.

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. RRE FL Tie Bar(Well Almost), TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17, Slver Cadmium Plated KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads on their way.