Since it took me quite a while to find all the info I needed to do this, here's a little write up.


- Aquire the parts and tool.

You can get a OEM new inner tie rod from Bob Kise (check my profile for info) for ~$40, or you can get aftermarket ones from NAPA, and quite a few places for around ~$20.

I needed a new rack and pinion boot, mine was torn (which is why I had to replace my inner tie rod to begin w/, the contamination wore it out), they had a boot for our cars in stock at O'Reily Auto Parts for $20, which came w/ new clamps, I had to ask for a boot for an Eclipse because they only had 1G Talon's in their parts computer/book. You can also get them from NAPA, but they will probably have to order it, so be prepared in advance.

The tool used to remove inner tie rods looks like a cylinder about 1.5" in diameter and about 12" long, that slips over the inner tie rod, grips the end of it, and you turn it using a 1/2" drive. I used a universal one that I rented from O'Reily Auto Parts, but this tool can be had from NAPA and JCWhitney for around $60, also needing to be ordered in advance.

*Note: Don't be afraid to turn the wheel to put the steering assembly where it's easiest to work with...


- Remove the tie rod end

Use a pitman arm puller to press out the ball joint. Count how many times you turn the tie rod end to get it off so your alignment will be as close to what it was as possible. (You may still need an alignment afterwords, due to installing a new inner tie rod.)


- Remove the chassis plate covering the inner tie rod

It has 4x 14mm grade 10 bolts, take it out so you can access the clamp on the inner side of the rack and pinion boot.


- Remove the boot

First use plyers to take off the outer clamp. Then use some wire cutters to clip the raised portion of the pull type inner clamp. Be careful not to nick the boot if you plan on reusing it. Just tare that clamp off, you cannot reuse it. Pull the boot off (again, gently if reusing).


- Remove the inner tie rod

*Note: Be careful not to scratch the portion of the rack and pinion that goes inside the case when turning the wheel, as you can damage the oil seals.

You first need to bend the retaining clip up on both sides of the end of the inner tie rod so that it's free to turn (look around the base of the inner tie rod to see what I mean). I found using a chisle and hammer to be the best method, since it's pressed on there pretty good.

Using the special tool, securely fasten it on the flats of the inner tie rod w/ a wrench (if using an adjustable type). Using an impact wrench in the special tool drive, back off the inner tie rod.

If you don't have access to air tools: when working on the driver side use a monkey wrench to hold the gear rack at the flat to keep it from twisting, then use the proper size wrench to back off the inner tie rod, applying equal forces to both wrenches (thanks Rick). When working on the passenger side, there is nowhere to hold the rack w/ a wrench due to it being cylinderical, I'm guessing that this side is the powersteering assisted end, and that it's guided on a rail, so you don't need to worry about it. Besides, when I removed mine w/ an impact wrench it wasn't torqued on that much, so you should be able to get away w/ a breaker bar in the special tool drive.


- Install the new inner tie rod

Start it off by hand, don't forget to put that retaining clip onto the new inner tie rod, then use the special tool to tighten back up, and the reverse of the above step ^ for the method of tightening, you'll know when you have the right amount of torque, because it should be around the same position (turn wise) that it was before you removed it.

Bend the retaining clip over the ends of the new inner tie rod. I found the easy way to do this (since there isn't much room) to be slipping the special tool over, and pulling it quickly forward to bend the tabs over.


- Reinstall the rack and pinion boot

Slip the new (or old) boot back over the grove on the rack and pinion housing (you may need to spray some wd-40 around the inside of the boot to get it to slip on easy, and strech the end w/ your fingers, working it around, a slight PITA).

Install the fastener that goes around the inner part of the boot (the big end), mine came w/ a pull type band, which you pull tight with plyers then bend the end over. If reusing the old boot, just a zip tie to secure it.

Install the outer clamp (there is a grove for where it should be on the inner tie rod).


- Reinstall the chassis plate

The bolts should torqued to around 50 ft/lbs.


- Reinstall the tie rod end

Use the same number of turns it took to take it off.


... This sure beats spending $600+ for a new rack and pinon.
If you have any questions, post here, or feel free to email me at baldrjo@auburn.edu

Good info. You should contact a mod and nomitate this for Things We've seen before or maybe a spot on the main page.

Wick,
Excellent! This should help anyone doing this maintenance. Big :thumbsup

Rick

VERY GOOD writeup

Excellent write up, think I'll be using it soon. Was the car doing anything that led you to look at the inner tie rods as the guilty party or did you just happen to see the bad boot during regular check up? thanks in advance.

Carmelo
97 Talon
Texas

I saw a torn boot, so since it got contaminated it would have failed soon, so I replaced it and the boot.

My friends actually had forward and back play in it. If you removed the tie rod end from the hub and pressed on the inner tie rod.

the inner tie rod i bought has the flat spots on the inside of it can a crow's foot be used to install it???

Yes.

hey! I just bought my tie rods today and was wondering how to do this. I look up on 2gnt, and boo-yah! here we go. sounds fairly easy...

I found that an arm puller is not really needed, I used a rubber mallet with no problem. I did this a while back, one tell tale sign that it needs to be done is if you take a corner that has a bump you can sometimes hear the tie rod end make a pop sound as the sunspension un-weights and re-weights. At least that was the case for me. You can also jack up the car and wiggle the wheel side to side while looking at the tie rod, if the wheel has play but the tie rod isn't moving it needs to be replaced. You can get a better feel for this by taking the wheel off and pushing the hub assembly back and forth.


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Yes, you can use a hammer to remove the tie rod ends, but it's not recommended.

If you do, you should thread the castle nut on upside down (so that it's pointing up), untill it's flat with the stud. This will help in preventing mushrooming the threads.

Good write up man! Thanks.

darn wish I looked at this b4 I did mine hehe. Its a lot easier to see what your talking about if you had pictures though. :P took me a while to figure out what was all going on when I did it. I didn't use any special tool to take it out though I just used pliers. Good write up though. I did it without taking the chassis plate too but I guess it makes it easier to get your tools and hands in there if you did. Its a bit cramped in there.

if anyone is looking for the ball joint popper tool of all the auto stores I went to in my area AutoZone had it. its call a tie rod something tool looks like a 2 finger claw with a bolt in the middle its a very nice tool. Whatever you do don't hit the tie rod bolt with a hammer (you have to hit that mofo hard too) it messes up the threads and makes it a bitch to put it back on especially since it has that hole for the pin in it, I did that when I did my rebuild O_o. If you absolutely can't find one of those tools you can use a pickle fork to pop it out but you damage the ball joint while your at it so the other tool is much better.

Don't know how long mine were worn but my car has 100k on it and it was worn out just from old age I guess. The boots were still fine.

also if you ever want to have your car aligned its a good time to check if the inner tie rods are worn by trying the turn the actual wheel back and forth your self with it on the ground, if there's any play your tie rods are worn. That way you kill two birds with one stone.

how do you break old rusted bolts!? mine are not moving for shit. I tried using to open ends and squeezing them together, but nothings moving...tried soaking it in PB...dont know what else to think of. my passenger side snapped off from the outer end and on..so I have nothing to hold it down with.

Originally posted by reaxion
how do you break old rusted bolts!? mine are not moving for shit. I tried using to open ends and squeezing them together, but nothings moving...tried soaking it in PB...dont know what else to think of. my passenger side snapped off from the outer end and on..so I have nothing to hold it down with.

Try getting something long that you can slip over the socket wrench, like if you have a big floor jack, use the handle that comes out. Slip it over the wrench handle, now you have a 2-3 foot handle with a LOT more leverage. Works like a charm :) .

Removing rusted bolts (try in this order)
---------------------
- impact wrench (easiest method)
- PB Blaster (MULTIPLE soaks, let it sit over night too, then soak again right before you try removing it
- DON'T use OPEN END or 12-POINT WRENCHES to try to remove stuck bolts, I recommend a hex socket w/ a breaker bar and/or long pipe (have someone hold it on the bolt so you don't slip and tear the head off)
- Use a high temp torch (oxy-acetylene or a MAPP torch), this will always work, if it doesn't you didn't heat it high enough (be sure to turn the bolt while it's super hot), don't melt anything, or yourself

Originally posted by HadesOmega
turn the actual wheel back and forth your self with it on the ground, if there's any play your tie rods are worn.

I LOVE THE SEARCH UTILITY!

My front left has had this problem for some time, now, and the front right to a lesser degree, but while installing my GSX brakes tonight, I noticed the play was in the steering assembly and not the hub. Guess I can just hang onto these spare bearings I've had since last summer, then. :thumbsup

Of course, I'm sure this is no easy feat. I'm not looking forward to this project. PM sent for follow up.

Sorry for adding to such an old post. I've sourced the parts I need to do some front end work. I picked up the whole streering assembly from the salvage yard. The inner tie rods thread into the steering rack. I used a small pipe wrench to remove the inner tie rods from the rack. I measured the flat sides of the inner tie rod to be 1 1/4 inches - 32 mm. You could use those size wrenches to remove the inner tie rod. Remember, "right tight, left loose". Hope this helps.