I got these wheels ordered today.

They'll be in sometime soon and I need to get everything I need to have my car driving right when they're put on. By that I mean like camber adjusters and stuff like that (if there is anything else) Will I need those? See how stupid I am, I know what camber is but I would have NO idea on how to adjust my camber or put camber adjusters on... I need to do this with as little money as possible because I just spent over 1000 on wheels. If someone tells me all the things I'll need to put the wheels on and drive safely and without hurting my car I will hook you up fat with 2 points. Don't leave anything out because when it comes with suspension... I'm stupid.

Thanks:thumbsup

-Chip

OK I'm gonna earn my 2 pts! You only need camber adjustments if you are lowered OR you hit sh*t. You can do the $15 rear camber trick and buy some camber adjusters for the front. I'd recommend the +3/-3 degree adjustment. You only need them if you are lowered! If your drop is about 2", then you should be good still. A good alignment place will adjust all of your stuff. I'd be sure that they use a Hunter alignment rack. They are very accurate and touchy about what will pass. "IF" your camber is still "out" after they do all the work, then ask to see if your SAI is in spec. Granted that you haven't hit sh*t, it should be fine. Camber can still be out and the car will not have premature tire wear. TOE is actually the killer of tires. Lemme know if I missed any of your questions.

Getting new wheels won't create bad camber for your car, (as far as I know heh). The camber is actually how straight your wheel is. If it isn't perfectly within spec, which is pretty much perpendicular w/ your car, than it will result in uneven tire wear. I'm sure you can see the logic in this hehe.

The only time you need to adjust your camber is when lower your car. Lowering will cause your wheels to be crooked and not perpendicular with the car. A camber adjustment kit will fix this when you install it. Like ^^^^ the $15 rear camber mod is pretty much a given anytime you lower your ride. A front camber kit is only necessary w/ more aggressive drops. I lowered mine w/ goldlines and its a little under 2''. The front is fine but the back is crooked as a crazy straw. I was ready to do the $15 rear camber and get an alignment to know for sure but I totalled my car hehe.

Hope the info helps :)

EDIT: In short, you don't need anything except wheels/rubber. If you bought them from Wheelmax (I bought mine there too), I'm sure you got a sweet deal on rims/rubber. So just unpack your goods and slap 'em on the ride and you're good to go amigo :)


Black 97 Eclipse RS a/t (totalled but being rebuilt)
17'' HP Typhoons
Goldline Springs w/ Tokico Blues
Nakayama CAI
Cat-Back Exhaust
Final Drive Gears
AFX UDP

Metallic Fiji Blue 92 3000GT VR4
new engine on its way

Thanks to both of you 2 POINTS!

Okay I know more than I knew before but a couple questions still...

Erik says more than a 2 inch drop will need camber adjusters...
You say that you needed them with a 2 inch drop....

Who is right?

If it helps my car drives straight as an arrow if that's what determines if I need camber adjusters....

Anyhow...15 dollars for camber adjusters is very good. I'll make my own if I need them FOR SURE. I plan on getting 2 inch lowering springs or even coilovers to go lower. I have a good idea on how to protect my front bumper from scrapes so I'll be riding low.

What will my car look w/o a drop with 18's.... bad? Maybe I'll cruise like that for a while.

Once again, points to whomever helps. (who already hasn't)

2" drop will create camber problems. camber problems won't arise from the wheels they will arise from the lowering of the car without adjust the camber to accomodate.

for that drop you would be best getting the ingall's camber kit for the front. don't bother with the ingall's rear kit it's basically the same as the $15 camber trick. for help on that look on the main page.

if you're going through with this than you'll probably want new struts. for 18's i'd go with tokico illuminas or koni yellows. i say those because they both have very nice warranties so if you ever blow one out you'll have minimal hassle getting it replaced. tirerack.com has the koni's for $135ech. that's about as good as the price gets for either of those struts.

tire size for 18's should be 225/40-18. i'd recommend at least a V speed rating. yokohama's are decent tires that are going to last V4's are good if they're still around. we used to sell those. if you want a good bargain tire look at kumho. speed ratings after V are W Y and Z W and Y being Z tires that were designed for inclement weather. michelin pilot sport A/S's are a good example of a Y speed rating and a truly awesome tire. if you have the coin get those for sure. ($230+ a peice)

With a 2'' drop you will probaly need the $15 rear camber kit. However, the front camber might not be necessary. My goldlines are rated at a 2'' drop but are actually a little less and the front camber was unneccessary for me.

After you drop it, just bring it for an alignment and they'll tell you how far you're off and what you need.



Black 97 Eclipse RS a/t (totalled but being rebuilt)
17'' HP Typhoons
Goldline Springs w/ Tokico Blues
Nakayama CAI
Cat-Back Exhaust
Final Drive Gears
AFX UDP

Metallic Fiji Blue 92 3000GT VR4
new engine on its way

It's a little different w/ each car. I'd get the adjusters just so you don't have to pay for another alignmnet if your wrong. Plus they are a nice extra when doing some weekend racing.