just wondering but i get the impression that brakes are easy to do (ie gsx upgrades in an nt). i don't know about you but messing with the brakes makes me nervous. what can go wrong anyway with installing brakes. the most i've done to my car is oil changes, and maintenace stuff. i am not doing a brake install, not yet anyways but the last part i would ever mess with is the brakes that prevent me from hitting stuff.






-jezreel

98 eclipse gs (at)
green with turbo spoiler

to be installed hrc stage 1

1.3 in eibach prokits
short ram intake
gst muffler
white gauges

disc brakes are easy to do specially the fronts. it's really a matter of a few bolts and a big enough hammer to whack off the old stuff. the only specialty thing you'd need would be white lithium grease for the calipers and a C clamp to squeeze the piston back in. check the GSX upgrade sticky. it links on how to do the upgrade. that will be able to walk you through the process. for what you're doing you won't need to disconnect the calipers completely just unbolt them and let them sit on the wheel bearing housing. after that's done get your hammer and hit the rotors around the lugs. not really hard just enough to get a bit of vibration. than hit them from behind in the same start pattern as the lugs. alternate lugs don't go in a circle. it should pop off. if it doesn't get some WD40 or whatever your brand of monkey piss is and spray it into where the studs come out. let it sit a couple minutes so it can work than try to whack it again. once that's done grab your c clamp and the calipers. place the old pads over the pisons and use the clamp on the back of the caliper and the front of the pad to squeeze the piston back in. than pop your new pads in and re assemble. when you put the calipers back in use the white lithium grease on the bolts so the calipers can squeeze good. shouldn't take more than an hour depending on how stubborn your rotors are. the driver side will most likely put up a good fight.

for the rears you need a specialty tool for the E brake line. i've never messed with that so maybe someone else can pick that up for you.

Yeah, what ^^^ said. Doing the fronts might take you an hour the first time you try it yourself. If you've had them done before, they should come off with the BFH no probs.
As far as teh conversion, I've always wanted to try, but it makes very little difference imo. I have 140K on my ORIGINAL drums back there, so you can see just how much use they get.
Problems?
If you get air or dirt in your brake lines while changing parts out (ie converting) you may get uneven pressure from one corner to another. I had this happen on my old Pontiac. When you hit the brakes, the front right and rear left brakes would clamp down, making the car feel like it was flexing on the frame.
Botom line? Be patient and keep your lines clean. Read up in your Chilton's or Haynes manual. Might even be in the service manual in Juggalos sig or whatever...

Good luck and HAVE FUN! :thumbsup

dood...it was way easy.

I was a scared wussy b4 too....only oil changes, sparks and fluids. Last weekend, I finally got my front race concept slotted/dimpled rotors installed.

Here's a list of shit I had (or needed to buy) to complete the fronts:

Socket/Ratchet set: I remember using a 17mm for the calipers even though someone here told me I'd be using a 14mm. Anyways...have a good set of sockets.

Rubber mallet for bashing shit thats stuck

Brake cleaner

Brake Fluid Dot 3 or 4( I didn't need this but had some just in case)

Torque wrench....caliper bolts to wheel hub thing were 65lbs...locking/guide pins on caliper were 45 lbs....rims are 90-100lbs so you won't warp your new rotors

Anti squeak stuff for the BACK of your brake pads

A coat hanger to hang the Caliper inside the wheel well....don't let them hang by the brake lines

WD-40 or Liquid wrench

Jack/Jackstands

8x1.25 bolts to remove stuck rotors...Both of mine fell right off

Large C-clamp and piece of flat wood or cardboard (so you won't damage the pistons when pushing them back in)


The hardest part was breaking the bolts holding the calipers in.

Here's my post b4 I did the install: http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=6&topic_id=17376&mesg_id=17376&listing_type=search

Do it yourself...it was fun
:D

remember also that if you are replacing the calipers, get a 10mm line wrench or you will deform or destroy the flare nut on the brake line where the hardline goes into the soft line.
lates
james

>remember also that if you are replacing the calipers, get a
>10mm line wrench or you will deform or destroy the flare nut
>on the brake line where the hardline goes into the soft line.
>lates
>james

man your brakes kit ass..

anyway, so the brakes will clamp down when pressed on like always? that's what i'm most worried about.

^^^that's me btw Long story.
like when you press on the brakes, i'll work like always but better stopping.

-------jezreel

um i'm a little confused,

what do you mean?

think he means the 2 diff names are the same and i can't quite decode his question.

>think he means the 2 diff names are the same and i can't
>quite decode his question.

here's the two name story

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=13&topic_id=37539

sorry for the confusion but what i meant is that when i install the new brakes, it will clamp down with a force equal to the stock force (similar to before me changing the brake).
i am just worried it wont clamp.

Is there a chance of that happening (of the brakes not clamping) because of my installation?

-------jezreel