Just finished up my powerslot slotted rotors and RRE stainless steel line install. Once you get down and into it, it's really easy. Hardest part is bleeding the brakes. Speedbleeders are a godsend! WD40 too.

First, if you guys would like a formal write-up, I think I can manage it. Reply and let me know. No pics though :( , because I was fighting against time and coldness during the whole procedure.

Here are some things/thoughts to help you be more prepared during your install.

-It sucks not having the proper tools, so here's a checklist for people preparing to do this install yourself:
Jack
Jackstands
Socket Wrench set
Torque Wrench
Breaker bar or really big socket wrench (for leverage)
10mm cresent wrench
Vice grip pliers, adjustable wrench or a set of large cresent wrenches.
WD40
Brakecleaner
Brake/caliper anti-squeal compound

-The whole procedure for removing calipers is easy. It's four bolts for each caliper. They are on pretty tight, and there's not alot of room to work with. Make sure you have a big wrench or breaker bar to help you get leverage.

-Rubber mallets do not work for getting off rotors. This link is a good idea for helping you get rotors off: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BrakeRotors.html
But if you don't have the proper bolts and nuts laying around like I didn't, you'd still have to buy some hardware, so you might as well just pick up 8M coarse bolts. The stock rotors have threaded holes.. just stick those in, turn, and the rotor will give and come out. The length of bolt doesn't matter, but it should be long enough to pop the rotors loose enough to pull off.

-There are clips that hold the stock rubber brake lines in place. My were rusted on pretty tight. I used the vice grip pliers to clamp down on them to bend their shape a little, and then a needle nosed plier to pull them off.

-The long stainless steel lines are for the front, the shorter ones are for the back. But once you get into it and start pulling out stock stuff, it's pretty obvious which is for which.

-While your in there, do yourself a favor and install speedbleeders: http://www.speedbleeder.com It'll make bleeding the brakes so much easier, and this honestly was the hardest part for me!

-Don't forget to properly torque everything down. Brakes are very much needed for safe driving, so please don't risk your life by not making sure everything is fine. You can find torque specs on the online FSM. Check Dino's or Juggalo's sigs for links. http://www.ecanfix.com/users/manualcd/gift/dsm/index.html Thank Juggalo for that link. :)

-If your brake warning light stays on after your e-brake is down, here's some things to do:
If your brakes are spongy, rebleed your entire system.
Try resetting your ecu (Thanks Evulflea).
Top off your brake fluid, it may be too low after all that bleeding. (Thanks Kiku).


Well, that's all I can think off. Did I miss anything? If anybody has questions, feel free to reply and ask, shoot me an email, or IM me.

Just a quick note to add-
Dont overtighten the speedbleeders on the calipers because they can shear off REAL easy... I overtightened my first one and it broke right at the ball valve part... DOH!! Luckily I ordered 5. They are really easy to overtighten.
SS brake lines are, in my opinion, a great improvement.
-chris b.

u forgot to say how much u liked them mystic =P

I almost overtightened on of the speed bleeders too. I found that if you hold the socket wrench at the head with your fingers, you can feel when it doesn't want to go anymore.

Motofool, haha, yea, i didn't say how much I liked them. I can't really tell yet, because i'm still breaking them in. :( The brake pedal is REALLY tight because of the SS lines though, i love it!

you can use the pix on my DPC write up.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291546499

Oh yeah I wouldn't use an open ended wrench if you can try to get a 10mm flare nut wrench you'll have less chance of stripping the brakelines.

bwahaha because on my golf and my 27 year of Z those brake lines were STUCK on there and I literally stripped every single fitting haha until I found out about that wrench, but sometimes the locking pliers is the only thing that'll break it loose. A flared nut wrenhc is basically a cross between an open ended wrench and a closed end.