| Go back to previous topic |
| Forum name | Handling/Suspension |
| Topic subject | Prokits + Camber |
| Topic URL | https://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=i6&topic_id=14637 |
14637, Prokits + Camber Posted by stockRS, Jan-02-03 11:43 AM
Hey guys, i was just wondering if anyone knew where I could buy some Prokits and Ingalls' Front and Rear Camber kit for cheap. Well, not cheap, but like, cheaper than other places. TIA
|
14638, RE: Prokits + Camber Posted by fauchpj, Jan-02-03 12:14 PM
front camber really shouldnt be an issue with the prokits. and you can do the $15 rear camber mod real easy
|
14639, RE: Prokits + Camber Posted by Karl, Jan-05-03 11:38 AM
When using the Eibach Pro-kits, you will not need a camber kit for your fronts. Only our rears are off camber. Instead of using a high-price camber kit, simply buy a longer bolt and some washers and put in on. If you don't want to go through the trouble of trial and error (amount of washers to add), buy RRE's rear camber kit.
|
14640, RE: Prokits + Camber Posted by eclipse804, Jan-05-03 01:29 PM
Hmm so if my front camber is out of spec, does that mean my coilovers are set lower than the prokits in front? I always thought my fronts were pretty high...here's a pic:

|
14641, RE: Prokits + Camber Posted by Clay, Jan-06-03 04:46 AM
^its not to bad. i'm i the only person to have my fronts off by -1 off spec? btw i have prokits too.
|
14642, RE: Prokits + Camber Posted by Mystic511, Jan-06-03 06:19 AM
-1 off spec or just -1 camber? remember that our camber is negative to begin with.
I think anything above -2 is within spec.
|
14643, RE: Prokits + Camber Posted by eclipse804, Jan-06-03 07:59 AM
Acutally, fronts are ideally 0 in front, -1 in rear. So less than -1 in front is okay, and less than -2 in rear is okay. My fronts are -1.75 and rears are -3.
|
14644, RE: Prokits + Camber Posted by fauchpj, Jan-06-03 08:35 AM
yeah max camber up front is -.5 mine is -1.3 and -1.0
|
14645, RE: Prokits + Camber Posted by WheatKing, Jan-07-03 04:55 AM
Specialty products has proper camber adjustment now.. instead of moving the pivot out, they lengthen the arm with an adjustable ball joint.
I got rid of my lowered suspension cause it messed with the geometery too much. Specialty products makes the eibach kit.. and it's cheaper ;-)
and yes you should get your camber adjusted.. and not "laser" aligned either.. they are rarely accurate.. you can't beat the old boys with the lights and mirrors.. guaranteed accurate.. unlike the lasers which get knocked about.
Our suspension is very complex.. the camber rise rate is also in relation with caster change.. again.. something that probably goes over a lot of people's heads, but stock height is ideal "mechanically".. lowering the car is good, but it throws the mechanics of how the suspension works out the window.
Try the new ball joint adjuster.. it's the best way :)
http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/PROD_PASSCAR.html
-- WheatKing
|