I have weapon shitty R coilovers, i guess its bouncy because its really dropped to da ground but still dont bottom out. If I get the Koni yellows or the tokico illuminas will this reduces the bouncy shiznits. I can hit a small bump and my car is rocking back and forth like a mo fo. Help me out hea.

Hrmmm...... Do you have blown struts?

blown struts would make the ride firm and uncomfrtable not bouncy. that's your coils. couldn't see struts changing that to much

My firend had a hella bouncy ride and couldnt figure out why, turns out he mixed up the front and rear springs. Check that :)




Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

well i got blown shocks for sure but i dont know if this would be causing this to happen. Maybe ill buy a set of h&rs i heard a lot of good things about em.

>blown struts would make the ride firm and uncomfrtable not
>bouncy. that's your coils. couldn't see struts changing
>that to much

You've got it backwards dude. Blown shocks will make that shit bouncy as hell. If the shocks are blown there is nothing to control the compression and decompression of the spring making it bounce like it's its job.

Well when I had blown struts it was hell bouncy. See, struts hold everything firm. When theyre blown, the car can bounce all it wants, because theres no resistance. So when I had my rear struts replaced, since thats all I could afford, everything was good again.

worn struts make your ride firm and uncomfortable

http://www.tokicogasshocks.com/suspension/wornshocks.html

so i guess tokico has it backwards as well. gee their shocks and struts must really suck if they have their shit backwards.

Where does it say firm?
Their site confirms what everyone is saying.

1.) Excessive rebound or “float”
2.) Too much body wallow or lean during lane change or cornering
3.) Excessive dive under braking
and
4.) Frequent bottoming

add all those up and you have bouncy and bottom out.

so you are right, Tokiko's website does have it right! :)

"Excessive rebound or “float”


Wander or poor tracking


Poor steering response


Too much body wallow or lean during lane change or cornering


Corner to corner pitch (corkscrewing motion) during cornering


Excessive dive under braking


Instability during braking


Excessive brake lock-up


ABS engages too quickly and too often


Poor adhesion on rough surfaces (i.e. crossing;railroad tracks)


Frequent bottoming


Harsh ride quality "

the red bullets on the right. try scrolling down

>"Excessive rebound or “float”

uhhh yea bouncy, tight is the opposite of float

>Wander or poor tracking

poor tracking is the opposite of tight handling

>Poor steering response

if your shocks were NOT blown, you would have great steering response

>Too much body wallow or lean during lane change or cornering

good shocks = no lean

>Corner to corner pitch (corkscrewing motion) during
>cornering

>Excessive dive under braking

once again, if you had good shocks your car wouldn't do this

>Frequent bottoming

yes, because of the fact that your blown shocks cannot take the load of the car and the spring end up compressing much more than they should

>Harsh ride quality

I've ridden on blown shocks. I don't think that I'd call it harsh. I would call it dangerous because you bounce all over the place, but thanks for proving my point listing all that stuff from the Tokico web page. I don't think that you grasp the concept of what a shock actually does. It controls the spring rate, meaning that a bad shock will NOT control the spring rate adequately. If there is nothing to control the spring compression and decompression, your car would do everything that the Tokico page says: poor ride quality, mucho body roll, bottoming out etc. Back to the original question to the guy with the coilovers, new shocks should help you out a great deal.

Thanks, thats all i needed to know if it would improve the bouncy shiznits.

WHICH ONES WOULD BE BETTER THOUGH? THE KONI YELLOWS OR TOKICOS ADJ? IM DEBATING ON WHICH ONE I SHOULD GET.

>TOKICOS ADJ

the illuminas don't work with coilovers, cause the perch isn't adjustable. yet some guys on the board have made illuminas work with coilovers, not sure how though. i'd recommend getting koni yellows.

I want to lower my '97 Esi too, like 1.5"
Will that eventually blow out my shocks? Should I save myself the pain and just do the shocks and springs at the same time?
And I'll for sure have a shop do an alignment, not worth $45 to wear out your tires faster, or worse.


And about the whole blown shock argument... Shocks and struts are Dampeners, which means they dampen the bounce created by the springs. Adjustable shocks allow you to change the amount of time it takes the shock to dampen the bounce. Without that dampening, the springs would just oscillate (bounce) forever, especially on Detroit roads!! :)

>I want to lower my '97 Esi too, like 1.5"
>Will that eventually blow out my shocks?

If they are stock, probably

>Should I save
>myself the pain and just do the shocks and springs at the
>same time?

Most definetely. That will save you the time and energy of ripping apart your suspension twice.

>And about the whole blown shock argument... Shocks and
>struts are Dampeners, which means they dampen the bounce
>created by the springs.

Yup

>Without that dampening, the springs would just
>oscillate (bounce) forever, especially on Detroit roads!! :)

Yup again

>If they are stock, probably

Yeah, everything is stock, for now. I'm thinking this spring I'll have the dough for some shocks and springs. What would people recommend, for a spring/shock setup, on a reasonable budget. Don't really need adjustable. I want it 1.5" lower. I have the stock 16" wheels.
I want quality, but I don't want to spend more than like $500-$700 for everything. Sound reasonable??

>I have weapon shitty R coilovers, i guess its bouncy because
>its really dropped to da ground but still dont bottom out.
>If I get the Koni yellows or the tokico illuminas will this
>reduces the bouncy shiznits. I can hit a small bump and my
>car is rocking back and forth like a mo fo. Help me out hea.

get air.

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Dwayne H
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Lowering the car with stock shocks/struts cause serious handling problems. I saw a video of a Civic that was lowered really far on stock shocks, and when he was on the highway he started to drift into the left lane a little... well he jerked the car back to the right slightly to get back in his lane. The dampning and spring rates were so messed up because of the stock shocks that the rear end bounced around, he slid backwards across two lanes of traffic and went over the cement median strip. Looks like he destroyed his rims, tires, body kit, exhaust, suspension parts, and whatever else was under his car at the time.

Just do your shocks at the same time as the springs/coilovers. Be safe.

I second that. Replace shocks and springs at the same time. It's convenient since they're both at the same place, and it'll save you a boat load of trouble later on.

For those of you that believed blown struts "made your ride stiff" or whatever was said... you must never have ever experienced blown struts. Hell, I dare even to say you don't even know what strut/shocks do.

Imagine a spring just by itself. You pull (or push) on it, and what happens? It bounces up and down until it runs out of steam. Well, the same thing happens in a car with blown shocks. It's just a car with springs. What happens when you hit a bump? You bounce up and down until the springs run out of energy.

What a shock does it ABSORB that energy (shock absorbers?) and keep the car from bouncing more then it should. Performance shocks/struts do this even better, because they usually stiffer then normal shocks, which means they can absorb even more energy then normal. What does this mean? It means the car is more stable (the ride will feel harsher because the shock is absorbing at a higher rate, same idea as the difference when you brake softly or brake heavily), and on turns, it means that there is slightly less body roll, since the shock will not compress as much. As you can see, this combined with stiffer springs will keep the car very very stable.

To keep the gap in the wheel wells the same on the front and back, do I need to lower them differently? like 1.5/1.75, or 1.5/2.0? It looks to me like everyone's lowered rides are higher in the front when they use springs meant to lower the front and the back the same amount. but i could be seeing things...

I lowered my car on stock struts.

They blew out fast, and it was very dangerously bouncy. I replaced them with normal struts, Monroe struts. Felt great, but now one of those have blown out.... Soon they all will.

But yes, very bouncy and dangerous on stock struts.

>To keep the gap in the wheel wells the same on the front and
>back, do I need to lower them differently? like 1.5/1.75, or
>1.5/2.0? It looks to me like everyone's lowered rides are
>higher in the front when they use springs meant to lower the
>front and the back the same amount. but i could be seeing
>things...

Yea my prokits "look" lower in the back than they are in the front because of the fender. I know that H&R springs lower the front more than the back so you might want to look into them.