I was in the middle of attempting to install my new ST swaybar, when I rounded off the nut that lets you unbolt the sway bar endlinks. Anyone have any better ways of removing this, other then a plasma torch? This is kinda frustrating, and PB Blaster didn't help me at all.
Any ideas?
-=B-=

Can you pound a slightly smaller size socket on there? I like going to the closest smaller standard size for this, usually works better than the next metric size down. Othere wize, you're stuck with trying vice grips... or extractors... nothign pretty.

Good luck Bill!

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines, AFX 55mm TB (re-installed once exhaust is done, intake was outflowing exhaust)

Bill, that's what you get for working on your car in 30 degree weather :P

bill I have a idea, lets cut the endlicks off.....:-) 30 degree weather sucks I was so cold

I did the same thing when I was installing my springs. My buddy lent me a can of this stuff called Kroil (or Croil) and I soaked the nut in that and vice-gripped it off. This stuff is supposed to break down rust to the micron. I don't think that you can buy it in auto or hardware stores, but if you know a mechanic he/she might be able to hook you up. It's worth a shot. Good luck man :-)