So I slapped on these GSX brakes and I supposively had a problem with air in the system after 'self bleeding' the front calipers. My pedal is way soft and I had to press it at least half way down to get any response. So then I have my friend help me bleed my brakes, 5 pumps on each side - it worked...a little. The pedal still feels soft and I have to push it at least 1/4 of the way to get any response. Meaning I can't just tap the brakes to slow the car down like it should. Question now is do I bleed the front calipers again for air, bleed the whole system or just be satisfied that my stock brakes were better. Please help out..thanks

ALvin

96 RST
http://www.kaptainmyke.com/tir/gallery/SemperBoost
Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / Nology wires / Dual Gaugepod pillar mount / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Upper/Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar
X-drilled rotors / Axxis pads / Stock GS/GST sideskirts /Color-matched center taillight/ door handles/ sideviews
Cleared Headlight turns/PIAA bulbs

have you thought about upgrading to braided SS lines? That might help. If not I would bleed again. Your brake lines might be getting bad or somethin. Just a suggestion.


96 Talon ESi Mods
apex' dunk exhaust
injen short ram
magnecore 8.5mm wires
front/rear strut tower bars
custom painted interior
carbon fiber hood

I would try to bleed them more. Plus, make sure your bleeder valve is sufficently tightened when you're done.

5 pumps wasn't near enough on my driver's side. Plus, just to make sure, I went back and bled my passenger side some more since I thought mine felt a little soft as well. However, after I was satisfied there weren't any more bubbles to be found, I went for a test drive and all was well.

Take it for a slow test drive after you bleed your brakes. You'll know right away whether they're okay.

Also new brakes won't be perfect as soon as you put them on. You got to give them time for the pads to get seated on the rotors. They will get stiffer over time.

pump the brakes a few times or they won't work right.

I thought about the SS option, perhaps later but it should of been better with the GSX setup. I've had the brakes on for about 500 miles so it should be broken in. Has anyone ever fully bled the whole system - fronts and backs? I'll re-bleed once again and see if it works out. THanks for the feedback folks


96 RST


http://www.kaptainmyke.com/tir/gallery/SemperBoost
Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / Nology wires / Dual Gaugepod pillar mount / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Upper/Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar
X-drilled rotors / Axxis pads / Stock GS/GST sideskirts /Color-matched center taillight/ door handles/ sideviews
Cleared Headlight turns/PIAA bulbs

Are you bleeding it into a clear glass or jar so that you can actually see if the air is really out of it? If not I would do this and just do it as long as you need to.


I'm curious now though. Are the GSX brakes alot better? Are they 2 piston instead of one like on ours or something?

i got the gsx front brake upgrade, new ss lines, r4-s front pads and metal master rear pads, and also rebuilt gsx calipers.. and powerslot rotors for the front, brakes alot better...:D... check your bleeding process and all if you dont do it right you wont stop right... :rolleyes...


Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins anyone got a 420a block thats not spun/head for sale?

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

Are the GSX brakes alot better?

Yes.

>Are they 2 piston instead of one like on ours or something?

Yes, they are two piston calipers.

where are u guys getting the stainless steel lines from i cant find any... i have a fwd non turbo if it maters

RRE sells them, also I think summit does too check those places out. I even think you can order them from a store like advanced auto or pep boys or some ish like that.


96 Talon ESi Mods
apex' dunk exhaust
injen short ram
magnecore 8.5mm wires
front/rear strut tower bars
custom painted interior
carbon fiber hood

yes I had the same problem as you. It took A LOT of bleeding to get rid of all that air they felt very mushy at first. I thought maybe the brakes were defective of something, haha yeh right. I bled it more the next day and whadda ya know some bubbles came out. SOmetimes a large pocket of air gets caught in the start of the brake lines and takes a while to get to the caliper. If the fluid is clear you can dump it back in the reservoir also just incase. Haha I used Motul brake fluid hell no I ain't throwin that out.

Also the pads and rotors still need to break in. Took like almost a month of driving to get them to bite HARD and yes they felt kinda mushy even with SS lines. One day you'll know when it's broken in it'll bite hella hard, your car will stop on a dime :)

I'll re-bleed em this weekend. I'm using some synthetic Dot4 cheap stuff so I can buy another quart. Thank you all for the input...you guys always got my 6.

ALvin

96 RST


http://www.kaptainmyke.com/tir/gallery/SemperBoost
Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / Nology wires / Dual Gaugepod pillar mount / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Upper/Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar
X-drilled rotors / Axxis pads / Stock GS/GST sideskirts /Color-matched center taillight/ door handles/ sideviews
Cleared Headlight turns/PIAA bulbs

when you bleed the brakes, use 2 people. Have one persond pump the pedal a few times, and have him keep pressure on it, then loosen the bleeder screw, and right before the pedal gets to the floor, close off the bleeder, then lift up on the pedal. This way, no air can get back into the system if the bleeder is left open while the pedal is let up on. Use a clear hose that fits tightly onto the bleeder screw, so you can see the bubbles come out. Do this at EACH wheel, repeating the abvove procedure a good 10 times. Start with the pass rear, then the driver rear, then the pass front, then the driver front, in that order.

yep same way I do :) best way to be sure!

u could sue a speed bleader 1 person bleeder setup too =)

Yes the speed bleeders are a beautiful invention. Makes it ten times easier, but I still do the last couple the old fashion way... I'm anal like that.

Does anybody know if the GSX master cylinder is the same? Sometimes the dual calipers require a stronger Master cylinder. Anybody know?

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines