my idle is pretty crappy. I blocked off the stock iac and i have the throttle stop screw almost removed. My Kpa and my idle rpm are too high so i was wondering how do i lower my idle and my idle kpa? Idle is at 1300-1400rpm and idle kpa is at 60-70.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
my idle is pretty crappy. I blocked off the stock iac and i have the throttle stop screw almost removed. My Kpa and my idle rpm are too high so i was wondering how do i lower my idle and my idle kpa? Idle is at 1300-1400rpm and idle kpa is at 60-70.

Well lets start here...

First off, I would like to know how you FINALLY got this hog freaking started. WTF were you doing wrong or what did you do wrong?

Second, are you running spark and fuel?

Third, why did you unhook the IAC?

Fourth, please tell me that you are not driving this car around town if you do not even know how to tune your idle.

Dino runs a similer setup with No IAC, shoot him an email and see if you can get ahold of him online.

What i wasnt doing right was the pwm. I set the pwm in megatune just as all the manuals told me to for low impedance injectors which i have and that never worked. I then plugged my resistor pack back in and set the pwm for high impedance and the car started right up (i think something is wrong with the flyback). Next problem i had was wideband because my afr reading was at 29:1 and that was caused by the front o2 sensor not being screwed all the way in.I am currently only running fuel and i unhooked the iac because i was told it would get stuck open or closed and it wouldnt work that well anyways since the stock ecu doesnt have any control over a lot of the sensors on the car that are used in calculations for the iac. I wish i could drive my car around town. It hasent been driven since the MS was installed =/ i want to see what 14psi of boost feels like.

are you running the high res code?

im not sure what that is so im pretty sure im not. Quick question, if i use the first map of that msq database from symtech, would my car just be running rich and all i would have to do is lean it out on the tuning ve table 1 display?

you will need to tune the entire map as well as enrichments ect. no two motors are the same.

If you're not running spark, plug the IAC back in. It'll idle mostly fine.

so the iac will be fine at 14psi of boost? It isnt going to get stuck open or anything? I used silicone sealer on it so it wouldnt leak so i just want to make sure if i need it in or not. So i definately need it and it will definately work at 14psi?

the only time it gets pushed open is when you unplug it. it will be fine.

alright, i'll put it back in and let you guys know what it does.

it seems to have helped. my idle went down from 1500 to 900-1000rpm but its a little jumpy occasionaly it will rev a tiny bit from 900rpm to 1100rpm and my vacuum is reading 10-11.

your prolly running pig rich which will cause your low vacuum. If you just reset the ECU, then your ECU may be read justing itself.

Check for vac leaks

Terry

my wideband tells me im a little lean. can i do a vac. leak test with a boost leak tester arent they the same thing? I have a buddy coming from ohio to tune my car on saturday =) 13-14psi of boost is ok with my dsm 450cc's right?

Depends on what turbo it is.

the turbo is the same exact one that has a write up in the wiki. Ebay turbocharger written by Mike Dostal. Think i can run 13-15psi? I was thinking 14psi of boost just to be safe.

its all going to depend on your level of tuning and the flow rate of that turbo. The problem with ebay turbo's is that you dont know the correct trim ect on the turbo and if you do, then your not sure the seller really knew his product and gave you accurate info. I would say start at 7psi and slowly work up till your injectors are at 80% duty. I wouldnt go above that so that MS can compensate for different air conditions.

Less Fuel will be needed in summer months than will be required in winter. If you tune for 100% duty then you will be lean all winter long.

i dont care about the winter. The car is stored in the winter months. So i should start at like 8psi and work my way up until my duty percentage is 100% which means the injectors are maxed out?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
i dont care about the winter. The car is stored in the winter months. So i should start at like 8psi and work my way up until my duty percentage is 100% which means the injectors are maxed out?

I never go above 90% DC personally.

But yes, start low and work your way up. You dont want to rush into anything although its tempting :)

well after wasteing their time everything has come to a stop. The tuners got to my house and said man your car is misfiring so they changed something on the map and then it wouldnt start. They kept flooding the motor went through 12 plugs and havent got it to run and stay running again. At one point it was idling perfect no misfires or anything it sounded great then it stalled and hasen't started back up since. They told me to check all the wiring and once i got the car idling and not misfiring they would tune it for me. As of right now it just cranks. I getting spark and fuel and im using the base map from symtechs msq database (the first map. What do i do?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
well after wasteing their time everything has come to a stop. The tuners got to my house and said man your car is misfiring so they changed something on the map and then it wouldnt start. They kept flooding the motor went through 12 plugs and havent got it to run and stay running again. At one point it was idling perfect no misfires or anything it sounded great then it stalled and hasen't started back up since. They told me to check all the wiring and once i got the car idling and not misfiring they would tune it for me. As of right now it just cranks. I getting spark and fuel and im using the base map from symtechs msq database (the first map. What do i do?

Well, who are these 'tuners' from Ohio? I am from Ohio and I know there are 5 people in this whole state that are worth two shits, and they are expensive as hell....

Anyway, What were they changing with the MAP settings?

Sounds to me like they started messing with stuff, fucked up, and couldnt figure it back out so told you to check stuff and they scooted.

Going through 12 plugs, thats crazy, they were really screwing around with some settings or numbers then, because thats pretty bad.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow well after wasteing their time everything has come to a stop. The tuners got to my house and said man your car is misfiring so they changed something on the map and then it wouldnt start. They kept flooding the motor went through 12 plugs and havent got it to run and stay running again. At one point it was idling perfect no misfires or anything it sounded great then it stalled and hasen't started back up since. They told me to check all the wiring and once i got the car idling and not misfiring they would tune it for me. As of right now it just cranks. I getting spark and fuel and im using the base map from symtechs msq database (the first map. What do i do?

Well, who are these 'tuners' from Ohio? I am from Ohio and I know there are 5 people in this whole state that are worth two shits, and they are expensive as hell.... Anyway, What were they changing with the MAP settings? Sounds to me like they started messing with stuff, fucked up, and couldnt figure it back out so told you to check stuff and they scooted. Going through 12 plugs, thats crazy, they were really screwing around with some settings or numbers then, because thats pretty bad.

Lol.

well got her a little tuned so i tried a 2nd and 3rd gear pull and i got the go ol' 4500rpm stutter that i have always had ever since i went turbo. This has got to be diagnosed and fixed. Ideas of what it could be?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
well got her a little tuned so i tried a 2nd and 3rd gear pull and i got the go ol' 4500rpm stutter that i have always had ever since i went turbo. This has got to be diagnosed and fixed. Ideas of what it could be?

an issue with your map sensor probably

can that be it even know the ms is controlling fuel now?