I thought everything would be a lot bigger. I was shocked when I only recieved one box of parts. I did the power supply and clock last night. Can I go on with out a stim? If I cant does anyone have one to lend me for a few days.

Here are some pics


and the 2.4 beast im in love with.

I have my ignition chip soleredr to the SRP4 pin on the db37, The decoder diagram calls for it to be on SRP4 also. Is that the correct way to run dual chips and the decoder. I also want to am I suppose to leave the lik betwwen IGN and IGBTOUT together because the decoder also hooks into IGN.

Yes remove the link

ore trouble I down loaded the ms2 1.02 firmware but i dont see the option for the neon/420a in the ignition section is this the right code I heard there was a high res code of some sort.

Where did you download it from? For MS2 and MS2Extra you should've gotten it from here:

http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/

Originally posted by VelocitaPaola
Where did you download it from? For MS2 and MS2Extra you should've gotten it from here: http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/

thats where I got it from but I still dont see the option for the neon crank

Download the code now. It appears you have an old version. I set this up to see what your talking about and I got the 2.0 code. Go into MT and in the "tach input/ignition settings" you can select the 420a trigger.

I got it all worked out I just need to retest everthing on the stim. Because i have the neon 420a decoder and dual igbts i cant get the stim to light up any more. How do I test it all now that im done.

The Stim will not test the 420a decoder. MSII, i dont think there is a way to test it. On MS1 I used to change the crank input to MSNS even though the baord was setup for 420a and bench testing wasnt an issue.

Hook it up to your car with the factory ECU controlling fuel and spark and check that it reads sensors ect and watch it as the car warms up and see that the Intake and coolant slowly raise up in values ect. make sure your RPM is close and check that the clock circuit functions as it should (reset at 255).

Terry

I seen somewhere that because I have the ms2 I dont need the clock on the v3 boad. Im not sure exactly what it acomplishes but it might free up more inlets/out lets. (just wondering). While testing it the clock does reset with all the mods I have done.

you need to start reading the manual and the assembly instructions if you dont understand the clock circuit or think it could be removed to save I/O.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
you need to start reading the manual and the assembly instructions if you dont understand the clock circuit or think it could be removed to save I/O.

I dont know if it was another forum or not but I thought I would mention it. Im happy with what I have now, The only thing I might do is boost control and maybe water injectio. I just want to drive this freakin car with out blowing it up because the lack of fuel or spark control.

What bothers me is you dont even know what the clock circuit is. Explain to me why the clock circuit would need a I/O pin or how your ms is going to function without it?

You dont even understand what your doing or what your doing it with....good luck to you, i will not be apart of this.

I didnt mean to sound like a fuck tard I just read someting some guy posted, I know what the clock circut is used for, I guess the dude was saying he didnt need both the clocks on the daughter card and boad. Far as im concerned if its in the manual to install it, then it gets installed. Its still super new and exciting to me so im tryyin to absorb as much info possibly can.

The MS2 daughter card doesn't even have a clock circuit on it... no crystal oscillator, no resonator. There are resistors and capacitors there; and it's possible to use an RC network as a highly unreliable clock source, but I'm sure Bowling and Grippo didn't do that.

MS is very well documented. Follow the official literature and only go to the forums for unique modifications or questions for clarification.

Originally posted by VelocitaPaola
The MS2 daughter card doesn't even have a clock circuit on it... no crystal oscillator, no resonator. There are resistors and capacitors there; and it's possible to use an RC network as a highly unreliable clock source, but I'm sure Bowling and Grippo didn't do that. MS is very well documented. Follow the official literature and only go to the forums for unique modifications or questions for clarification.

There is a y1 on the bottom of my daughter card covered in silicone or hot glue. doesent ms2 use a hirger clock speed then the ms1 to get beter overall performance.

Yes, I overlooked Y1, though it's actually an 8MHz crystal oscillator: I believe the MC9S12C64 uses an onboard frequency multiplier since it runs at 24MHz. Anyway, I suppose what you mentioned would be feasible, but still, get it working first... then worry about add-ons.

Is it ok to tap right into the wires coming off the ecu or am i suppose to get as close to the sensor as possible. I used the jdm engine harness that came off my brothers honda and I have tons of wire.

Sensor signals that are more susceptible to noise (i.e. crank angle) should be tapped closer to the sensors themselves - many MS configurations use shielded pair wires too. Others like the TPS are less crucial. Of course, the IAT and ECT have their own wires altogether.

Got all the sensors working except for the crank. I tapped off the blue/white wire and I get nothing, no tach signal on the m/s. I know the yellow wire is the 8v feed for the cps and the black/green is the ground. Could there possible be a configuration issue.

Sorted it out, needed to jumper 5v to opto-in. I get the signal when the car is cranking now. woo hoo!!!!