well over the weekend, i installed my ported intake manifold, and replaced the brake booster line with a silicone hose, and also, i had a check valve in there, so i put it back in the new hose. and everything was fine at first, felt a little bit of power, then like 2 days later, it started acting weird, like when i start it up in the morning, it doesnt do what it normally does like go up to 1500-2000 rpms, now it just goes to like 1100 and just kinda stumbles maybe and just stays it 1000 til its warm, then sits at like 800, but when im driving, it wants to stall more often then normal at stop signs or lights.

and when i come to a red light, sometimes the rpms will be real low, other times they will be higher like 700 or so, but the needle moves around a lot, kinda like its surging, but not terrible, just 100 or so rpms every now and then, but its pissing me off cuz it kinda feels slugish in low rpms til the cams pull it.

i wonder if something happened to that check valve? i checked it, and i could only blow in one end, and suck through the other, but i wasnt sure which way to put it back in cuz i was messin with it, and forgot to look how i pulled it out, but like i said, it was fine at first...any ideas?

or maybe it has something to do with the 2 CEL's i have. 1 is 32, damned EGR, and the other is 47, something about the battery charge?

the only thing i can think of for the battery is that my crank bolt came out the last week, and my pulley wasnt spinning, and i got hime, called a dealer, for the bolt and had to drive there, but since my pulley wasnt spinning, and the battery light came on since it was running off the battery, and the voltage was in the 11's-12's while driving up there, and i got the bolt, put it on, and the battery light went back out.

i also had autozone check my battery and alternator yesterday, it said my alternator is fine, but the battery was at like 10.5 volts or something, and needed to be charged, and he said just drive it around to charge it back up, and that it wasnt low enough for them to charge it themselves. any ideas if any of these 2 things could cause my problem stated in the other post above?

When you have aggressive cams, disconnecting the battery or resetting the ECU will result in a couple days of the car wanting to stumble at idle while the ECU relearns all it's fuel trims. I found that, when I pulled the engine fuse as a theft deterrent, the next morning, the car would want to stall left and right. Over time, the ECUhas figured things out and idles just fine. A little low sometimes, but completely tolerable.

As for the battery issue, I would go for a nice, long drive with the lights off (so daytime) and the radio off to get the battery good and charged up. Take it out and enjoy the sounds of that motor. Then come home, park it, and reset the ECU. Pay attention to how the car idles the very first time you start it and then keep an eye out over the next couple days to see how it gets a bit better.

If this doesn't go away in a week, I might also suspect CLT sensor, but you replaced the manifold, so it might be related to ECU reset.

well thats the thing driggs, it has gotten worse now that it has learned the fuel trims. it has been a week today since disconnecting the battery,(and like i said it was fine the first 2 days)which is how long it takes to learn everything, and today is when the CEL's came on.

just a little bit ago, i had to move the car up a few feet for someone to put a trailer thingy into a spot beside my car, so i start it up, and it started like shit, mentioned in first post, and i pull forward and stop , and it damn near died right then. voltage on SAFC said it went down to 12.7v, and it just barely lived, so i gased it to get it back up, and it was fine. also, the engine temp was about 1/4 of the way up when i started it, since i drove it about 2 hrs ago.

i also replaced the IAT sensor on the manifold since it was bad when i took it off, cuz it threw a code when i first started it up...i think im gonna go check the vacuum right now, to see where its at, havent done that yet

edit: vacuum was at 13-14ish, steady and when i gave it gas, it went up and dropped back down like it normally should. at least its better now than before when it was at 11...maybe i should reset the ECU again

Originally posted by bloodyangel1
well thats the thing driggs, it has gotten worse now that it has learned the fuel trims. it has been a week today since disconnecting the battery,(and like i said it was fine the first 2 days)which is how long it takes to learn everything, and today is when the CEL's came on. just a little bit ago, i had to move the car up a few feet for someone to put a trailer thingy into a spot beside my car, so i start it up, and it started like shit, mentioned in first post, and i pull forward and stop , and it damn near died right then. voltage on SAFC said it went down to 12.7v, and it just barely lived, so i gased it to get it back up, and it was fine. also, the engine temp was about 1/4 of the way up when i started it, since i drove it about 2 hrs ago. i also replaced the IAT sensor on the manifold since it was bad when i took it off, cuz it threw a code when i first started it up...i think im gonna go check the vacuum right now, to see where its at, havent done that yet edit: vacuum was at 13-14ish, steady and when i gave it gas, it went up and dropped back down like it normally should. at least its better now than before when it was at 11...maybe i should reset the ECU again

Shouldnt vac be around 18-21?
Did you check for a vac leak at all yet?

i replaced all the vac lines with silicone hose from RRE, except for any hoses on the EVAP system, cuz i dont know which ones are which. and vac should be like 17-22 i think? but as driggs likes to claim, cams take away some of the vacuum, so im guessing thats where some of it went, and i think my timing is a tooth off too, so im sure that would screw with it even more

Originally posted by bloodyangel1
i think my timing is a tooth off too, so im sure that would screw with it even more

YUP