ok so, i an trying to remove my crankshaft pulley & i am using a snap-on puller the thing fits like a glove.. first one of the ears on the pulley broke, so i mived the one arm slightly to the left & it grabbed just fine, i heated it up with a hand held propane torch & proceeded to crank on the puller & SNAP one of the arms of the puller snapped...... so this is not a b%tch session iam just trying to get this pulley off & yest the crankshaft bolt is removed. dose anyone have any suggestions. i have searched & read some similar post & everyone elses has got thiers off & I am starting to think that this thing is not going to budge... PLEASE HELP

I had tons of trouble with the puller Im assuming your using
but this one took it right off
autozone had both types, this type works much better

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://imageserver.isnweb.com/LIS49500.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis49500.html&h=200&w=200&sz=27&tbnid=nl50DbLrEglJsM:&tbnh=99&tbnw=99&hl=en&start=16&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpulley%2Bpuller%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26rls%3DGGLG,GGLG:2005-48,GGLG:en

yes i will be getting that one nex i just hope it works, for now i am down 1 puller arm & 1 pullery & almost 1/2 of my patients.... I just want to drive my car... thanks for the advise, i will up date with results

did you have any issues with the one of the crankshaft ears beaking off & iof you did how well will that puller work?

remember that your puller CANOT touch any part of the pulley, Unless its going THROUGH that hole for the bolt, it isnt pushing against the crank.

remember that yous puller CANOT touch any part of the pulley, Unless its going THROUGH that hole for the bolt, it isnt pushing against the crank.



ok i think you might be on to something there... now i think what you are saying is to have the part of the puller that i turn go in to the crank shaft bolt hole until it bottoms out & not rest the puller on the crankshaft for tension but actually go in the hole? right? sorry if iam makin this harder than it is but after trying for several days & breaking everything i am sure i am doing something wrong

correct dude. Sorry, for the typos. I just type as fast as I can to try and help. I just check here quickly and if theres something worth answering I help.

OK here is my mistake (yes ill share and admit it) I used the 5 ton puller for ever even with my breaker bar and the impact gun. I too broke the pulley and in my frustration began to take the cutting wheel to it. Then and only then did I see my mistake. There was a little 1 inch circle that I thought was the crank in the middle of the pulley. WRONG, it was the imprint left by the bolt head. SO I was pressing on the PULLEY to take off the pulley arms...durr.... SO you want to press on the CRANK , the pulley only has the hole large enough for the BOLT SHANK. So I got a hitch pin for my trailer, plopped it in there and pressed against that. It poped of after 2 turns... like BUTTA!

Man you F**kin rock i am positive i did the same thing....i hope this works that has to be it thuogh.... many thanks to you my friend i will be attempting this tonight....

if the rod you are using with your puller isn't working try just using an old v8 pushrod, they should be basically the same thing that came with the kit, if you wanna go ghetto with it you can even use a qaurter inch extension off your rachet

Haha. Been there. Done that. Had to take the rented tool to the grinder wheel to make it look like "new" again so I could get my money back.

After renting the other one, the one for the AFX UDP/Crank Sprocket about six times, I just kept the thing. It's only $30 or so.

Good luck to you. :thumbsup

make sure that the pully isnt against the crank bolt, use a 12" 1/4" rachet extension inside the crank and it will come right out

I made a longer bolt out of 14mmx1.25? threaded rod, added two nuts, and I just screw it in about an inch, then the puller presses against my disposable threaded rod instead of the stock bolt or a ratchet extension that may break off or strip the threads inside the crank.

When you're doing it right, the crankshaft pulley and sprocket can both be removed easily by hand with a breakerbar and minimal effort.

iv never had issues the way ive done it, but i use to use a bolt the same thread pitch and all but it was 7" long

thanks man i really appreciate you all jumping in with all you different suggestions 1 of them has to work HAHa, anyways u guess iam on hold for now due to my broken puller arm!!! the snap on guy said it will take 2 weeks to get my new one he had to order it.. but i think i will still go rent the other one. i am not very patient

autozone lends em for 15-25 bucks. you get the money back when you return it.

when i went to autozone to rent they told me that the tool was a special tool they called it the chrysler harmonic balancer puller it is the same exact tool that they are al talkin about it works perfect and you get that dang pulley off in less than five minutes

Yeah, doen deal, thanks again for the help i got everything torn down i got the head off & what not ended up finding ball bearing inside my timming belt cover, turned out to be the tensioner pulley was eat'n alive for my timming belt, hope fully the timming didnt jump & bend my valves.

1)my cams have a little rust on them, can i get this off & how or are they junk & need to be replaced?

2)there is white & black deposits on my valves,can i get this off & how or are they junk & need to be replaced?

3)the top of my pistons are black can i get this off & how or are they junk & need to be replaced?

thanks for your help so far i have more questions but will search before i post.

if you guys can help i would appreciate it.
thanks

Yeah, I got myself a longer bolt like some of these other guys ^^^ and made up a whole entire "pulley removal kit" including stuff for removing a UDP as well. That's a whole another animal ... don't use a 3-jaw puller on one of those. :thumbsup

Lowes sells steel dowel rods, threaded or smooth. I would never use a 1/4 extension in the crank. That dowel rod is stupid easy to find, super cheap and you can get it in the same diameter as the hole so you dont have to worry about f'ing up the threads. Something to keep in mind the next time you try to ghetto rig up a bolt.

Does it look like this??


I was hoping for the best also but my head is at the shop getting a 3 angle valve job, new seats and NEW VALVES to replace the bent ones.

I used a bolt and impact gun to remove the pully. I broke two pullers before I got it off.
I pulled the motor out of my parts car and took that one apart also, but I used a big 2 jaw puller and grabbed the crank pully on the out sides. It came right off with very little damage to the pully.

Good luck.

I found to get the pulley off, I sprayed WD-40 all around it for 2 nights straight...

3rd night, I took my cheap 3 jaw puller, ripped the end off of the puller bolt(part normally pushing on crank) and stuck some steel rod into it so it want far enough in through the Pulley bolt hole...

....It looks like the $60 puller now but was $14...

Pulley came off in less than 10 minutes....Not to mention I think my biceps probably doubled in size within that 10 minutes...LOL...