Got a set of ARP headstuds and I was wondering what it sez in the instructions about just screwing them hand tight into the block is what your suppose to do? Do you have to torque them in or you just screw em in till they stop?

Do you also have to use any kind of lube for it when you screw it into the block?

Use Moly lube on the threads and thread them in till snug. The instructions dont say how tight they go into the block so i just nugged mine up with a 1/4 ratchet

If the instructions ay to put them in hand tight, wouldn't you put them in hand tight?

c'mon now.

i always use lube when i screw...

nah, i just felt itd be funny haha, i would assume follow the instructions as long as theyre laid out for that particular car... but i can see ur point as to why ud ask

sounds to me like he doesnt have the instructions

nah I got the instructions I've never installed headstuds b4 I found it a little odd that something where it once was torqued to 50 ft/lbs now is finger tight. They have the allen wrench hole on top so you can torque em down but if hand tight is what its suppose to be then I guess that's what its suppose to be :P I'll use that moly lube and snug it a little with an allen wrench.

You're not really supposed to use ARP Moly Lube on the threads going into the block. This applies to all ARP studs. Many uninformed people will tell you to lube up both ends, but I just talked with an ARP technician yesterday morning about this very subject. Use the Moly Lube on the nut end only.

Hand tight doesn't mean you can't use a hex wrench to snug them down. The reason the instructions say hand tight is so you don't apply a specific amount of torque. There should be NO stretch on the end threading into the block.

I hope that clarifies things a bit.

Also, on a side note... if you install ARP main & bedplate studs into a 420A, do NOT torque the smaller bedplate bolts to 70 ft. lbs. like the instructions say to do. That's an error on the ARP documentation. Put 70 ft. lbs. on the mains and 40 ft. lbs. on the smaller bedplate studs.

It's very important to check your main journal clearances after installing main studs. The clearances WILL change. If you're getting an align bore or align hone, make sure it's done with the fasteners you plan on using (stock or ARP).

I agree with dougie here. The lube is for the nuts on the head side of things. Its the reason why they give your certain Torque numbers for their lube or engine oil. The block side really should not have much torque on them.

Another thing too, be sure to chase the threads in the block, as the headstuds should go in easily without any use of force to turn them. Use the moly lube on the threads, and after they thread in all the way and stop, use an allen wrench to gently "snug" the studs so you cant turn them by hand without the wrench(e.g. using your fingers).

koo I got em in no problem. what I did was screw em in snug with the alen wrench, then back off then snugged it again to make sure it wasn't sticking and it was at the bottom already.

Strange thing is that 1 stud the one furthest front and to the back (intake side) is sticking out higher than the rest of them. The other ones all line up straight except that one. Is this that defect in the early 420A blocks? Will there be any problem with this?

actually now that I think about the last time I installed a headgasket and started it up water started shooting out of that part of the block. But it went away after I heatcycled it a couple times. Freaked me out.

Yes thats the infamous hole that was not drilled to the specs it should have been at the factory.