I get my shortblock back from the shop. I had them dissamble the block, clean it, bore it, and install pistons and oil pump because I didn't wanna jack something up like the last time I rebuilt the engine. I get it back and I get it on a stand and I look at the bedplate seal and its got grey RTV on it. I move my finger along the seal thinking maybe there's some kinda grey anearobic sealant on it well it was rubbery not goopy like excess sealant should be. I told them to use anaerobic sealant maybe I didn't make it clear enough but you'd figure if there was anearobic sealant on it when you took it apart you should probably seal it with the same stuff right?

Anyway using RTV is a no go right?

Should I call them up and tell em to do it again because I just paid them big bux to do all the assembly work and its gotta be torn down to the crank again to change the sealant.

or should I just do it myself? I'm assuming I just turn the block over, uninstall the oil pump, unbolt the pan and bedplate, clean, seal, and torque? I don't need to unbolt the rods or move the crank at all right?

Originally posted by HadesOmega
I get my shortblock back from the shop. I had them dissamble the block, clean it, bore it, and install pistons and oil pump because I didn't wanna jack something up like the last time I rebuilt the engine. I get it back and I get it on a stand and I look at the bedplate seal and its got grey RTV on it. I move my finger along the seal thinking maybe there's some kinda grey anearobic sealant on it well it was rubbery not goopy like excess sealant should be. I told them to use anaerobic sealant maybe I didn't make it clear enough but you'd figure if there was anearobic sealant on it when you took it apart you should probably seal it with the same stuff right? Anyway using RTV is a no go right? Should I call them up and tell em to do it again because I just paid them big bux to do all the assembly work and its gotta be torn down to the crank again to change the sealant. or should I just do it myself? I'm assuming I just turn the block over, uninstall the oil pump, unbolt the pan and bedplate, clean, seal, and torque? I don't need to unbolt the rods or move the crank at all right?

If you paid for it then take it back and have them do it right.

Originally posted by djtrickee
If you paid for it then take it back and have them do it right.

Definitely, the transmission shop saw me 6 more times after they "fixed" my transmission the first time.

Definitely make them do it again. And check it over extremely carefully when you get it back next time; seals, torque values, cracks, missing bolts, etc. *sigh* I'm sorry this happened to ya but fuckin-a... this is why I don't let "mechanics" work on my car.

Originally posted by thedawg
Definitely make them do it again. And check it over extremely carefully when you get it back next time; seals, torque values, cracks, missing bolts, etc. *sigh* I'm sorry this happened to ya but fuckin-a... this is why I don't let "mechanics" work on my car.

Exactly what I was thinking. Its all bad if I put it in the car and the part most burried in the engine fails or starts leaking.

see if you can be there while they do it. I would definately take it back, but try to be there while they do it. However if you cant, I'd tell them to put everything back together but the oil pan, that way you can check the torque of all the bolts. Oh and they did know the correct torques right for the rods/main/bedplate/oil pump bolts? and you may check what they used to put the bedplate on w/ also.... I dont know what would happen if you used rtv instead of anaerobic sealant on the bedplate, but I know I wouldnt risk it, it could be 100% fine, but you will never know w/o risk.. .g'luck

torque specs: oil pump=>block 17ft/lbs (using loctite 518)
rod bolts=> 20ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn
Loctite 19614 (anaerobic) for bedplate
Main Bearing Bolts=> 55ft/lbs
Bedplate bolts=>20ft/lbs
and I believe the oil pan bolts are 13ft/lbs, but I may be wrong.... And as always make sure they are torqued in sequence.

If it looks like Gray RTV, then it's probably the anaerobic case sealant usually used by most transmission shops for sealing bellhousing to the tranny case. It'll probably seal just fine, but I don't know for sure... it's probably best to pull the bedplate off and use the MOPAR or Loctite stuff while the engine is out.

Originally posted by HadesOmega
I move my finger along the seal thinking maybe there's some kinda grey anearobic sealant on it well it was rubbery not goopy like excess sealant should be.

If it's rubbery or hardened at all, its NOT anaerobic.

Anaerobic means by definition "Only hardens in the absence of air". I've left anaerobic tubes open for a year and they're still wet and gooey. Once they get spread ultra-thin between metal, there's no more air and they harden.

RTV is designed NOT to collapse so that it can fill in voids permanently. There are no voids between the bedplate and block, so it will hold them apart a few thousandths. This will cause the main bearings to be out of alignment, and eventually damage the crank and bearings.

RTV will most likely seal in the oil just fine, but it will cause misalignment on a bedplate design.

Originally posted by thedawg
RTV is designed NOT to collapse so that it can fill in voids permanently. There are no voids between the bedplate and block, so it will hold them apart a few thousandths. This will cause the main bearings to be out of alignment, and eventually damage the crank and bearings. RTV will most likely seal in the oil just fine, but it will cause misalignment on a bedplate design.

Now is the time to take it back and get it fixed right, Hades. You don't want more downtime, do you? O_o (As you would say.) :thumbsup

Well I called them today and he was all oh I forgot to tell the machinist about that he said there shouldn't be any problem with it leaking oil. Then I explained to him about the clearance for the bearings and stuff and he's all oh yeah if you think thats going to be a problem you probably should change the sealant. He was all you can take it back and if you have any other work done at this shop in the future you I'll add it to that. I'm all errr ok whatever. I decided to just change it out myself, I still feel bad about paying them to assemble it but well I'm never using that machine shop again. At the least they installed the pistons.

I was running low on Loctite 510 (51041) so I decided to get more sealant and found out that Winchester Auto has Permatex 51813. The Loctite my uncle gave me is a huge tube of pink stuff used it b4 and it works pretty good. The permatex stuff I've never tried but it sez Anaerobic on it so its gotta be the right stuff.

I took the bedplate out the way I mentioned by and GASP there was no oring on the bedplate. Looks like they tried to fill it up with RTV silicon too and didn't look like that good a job. I woulda really been in for it if that was like that. They could have at least gave me the old O ring or put the old one back in. That's what I did last time but now I know where that small leak over my oil filter is now O_o so I'll replace it this time.

A funny thing is that they used anaerobic sealant on the oil pump but not the bedplate. Arrghhh sometimes people don't think. Oh well just goes to show, if you want something done right DO IT YOURSELF!

Originally posted by HadesOmega
Oh well just goes to show, if you want something done right DO IT YOURSELF!

Glad you took that bedplate off! Good luck with your new engine.

Originally posted by HadesOmega
Winchester Auto has Permatex 51813. The Loctite my uncle gave me is a huge tube of pink stuff used it b4 and it works pretty good. The permatex stuff I've never tried but it sez Anaerobic on it so its gotta be the right stuff.

Loctite 518xx and Permatex 518xx are the exact same stuff. Same company makes both.

Originally posted by HadesOmega
Well I called them today and he was all oh I forgot to tell the machinist about that he said there shouldn't be any problem with it leaking oil. Then I explained to him about the clearance for the bearings and stuff and he's all oh yeah if you think thats going to be a problem you probably should change the sealant. He was all you can take it back and if you have any other work done at this shop in the future you I'll add it to that. I'm all errr ok whatever. I decided to just change it out myself, I still feel bad about paying them to assemble it but well I'm never using that machine shop again. At the least they installed the pistons. I was running low on Loctite 510 (51041) so I decided to get more sealant and found out that Winchester Auto has Permatex 51813. The Loctite my uncle gave me is a huge tube of pink stuff used it b4 and it works pretty good. The permatex stuff I've never tried but it sez Anaerobic on it so its gotta be the right stuff. I took the bedplate out the way I mentioned by and GASP there was no oring on the bedplate. Looks like they tried to fill it up with RTV silicon too and didn't look like that good a job. I woulda really been in for it if that was like that. They could have at least gave me the old O ring or put the old one back in. That's what I did last time but now I know where that small leak over my oil filter is now O_o so I'll replace it this time. A funny thing is that they used anaerobic sealant on the oil pump but not the bedplate. Arrghhh sometimes people don't think. Oh well just goes to show, if you want something done right DO IT YOURSELF!

I was going to reply the other day and suggest that you just redo the bedplate yourself but then I got lazy. Sometimes its just better to take that route and just never deal with them again, and tell everyone you know what happened... GL

Originally posted by CarbonFiberRST

Originally posted by HadesOmega Well I called them today and he was all oh I forgot to tell the machinist about that he said there shouldn't be any problem with it leaking oil. Then I explained to him about the clearance for the bearings and stuff and he's all oh yeah if you think thats going to be a problem you probably should change the sealant. He was all you can take it back and if you have any other work done at this shop in the future you I'll add it to that. I'm all errr ok whatever. I decided to just change it out myself, I still feel bad about paying them to assemble it but well I'm never using that machine shop again. At the least they installed the pistons. I was running low on Loctite 510 (51041) so I decided to get more sealant and found out that Winchester Auto has Permatex 51813. The Loctite my uncle gave me is a huge tube of pink stuff used it b4 and it works pretty good. The permatex stuff I've never tried but it sez Anaerobic on it so its gotta be the right stuff. I took the bedplate out the way I mentioned by and GASP there was no oring on the bedplate. Looks like they tried to fill it up with RTV silicon too and didn't look like that good a job. I woulda really been in for it if that was like that. They could have at least gave me the old O ring or put the old one back in. That's what I did last time but now I know where that small leak over my oil filter is now O_o so I'll replace it this time. A funny thing is that they used anaerobic sealant on the oil pump but not the bedplate. Arrghhh sometimes people don't think. Oh well just goes to show, if you want something done right DO IT YOURSELF!

I was going to reply the other day and suggest that you just redo the bedplate yourself but then I got lazy. Sometimes its just better to take that route and just never deal with them again, and tell everyone you know what happened... GL

Thats 2 major issues they "missed" or "forgot" to do. I would at this point, be concerned with the rest of the assembly the did. Piston ring gap, torque settings, etc. I would never feel 100% comfortable with that assembled motor since I hadn't done the work myself and they are incompetent boobs.
just a thought!

Originally posted by djtrickee
Thats 2 major issues they "missed" or "forgot" to do. I would at this point, be concerned with the rest of the assembly the did. Piston ring gap, torque settings, etc. I would never feel 100% comfortable with that assembled motor since I hadn't done the work myself and they are incompetent boobs. just a thought!

A good thought. While it would definitely suck to re-ring the block at this point, better to pull the pistons out and recheck all their ring gaps. If they are gapped right, then you're okay, but if not, I would seriously call them back and raise holy hell towards getting a partial, if not full refund on the job.

They risked the engine's integrity by using the wrong sealant and then they further risked things by leaving out that o-ring. I wouldn't trust them to wash my car, let alone handle the internals. :thumbsdown

Good luck, Hades.